When I took my rear wheels it took too much effort to get the lugs off. I broke a rear wheel stud putting them on. It snapped at 80’ lbs.

turns out jaguar doesn’t sell studs but only the hub. I havem’t lookked At it closely. Is there a way to replace individual studs? Thanks.

 

I'll be interested to see how this goes for you. I have had a stud shear and a bolt shear....and have apparently been "blacklisted" by Jaguar Canada, they having concluded I have over torqued them.
Had my torque wrench calibrated and it is spot on.
Always use a breaker bar to loosen, use an 80# torque stick and then the torque wrench. Always have movement when using the torque wrench.
Never use any lubricant/ anti sieze. Always "clean" the stud with a wire brush.
I think I do all the right things....have only had the wheels off/ on a few times but over the years lots of times with the Z3.....naturally I don't think I'm doing anything wrong.

 

For the cars that see salt, I use a dab of copper grease on the bolt shaft. They can rust in otherwise.

 

I put a tiny amount of anti-seize on wheel studs, torque carefully, and re-check them after a couple drives.

 

Did you replace the studs or the hubs?

 

Not the issue I've got.
The car had a fresh set of P Zero's mounted on the rear. The fronts were fine but the installed probably over torqued one. It twisted off at 80ftlbs.

 

Warranty covered new hubs....but apparently they will not cover any more for me

 

I saw your other thread on refreshing your red calipers and thought the ends of your wheel studs looked like they had been clamped down. Was this pic of the rear?

 

All yours may have been legit but it does sounds like the saying.

Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. There's not going to be a 3rd time

 

Yes. That was the RR caliper.
The more I think about it it had to be the tire shop way over tightening.

 

See this post from another thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post1777558
I've looked into replacing a rear stud myself, as one of them started to give me some trouble, but all OK now so I didn't proceed.
Anyway, you can't remove or replace any of the rear studs without completely removing the hub, as the back of the hub where the studs are is blocked off by suspension components.
But it shouldn't be all that hard to remove the hub, just remove the wheel, brake caliper, caliper holder and splash shield (in that order) then the hub unbolts from behind.

 

thank you for the information.
Once you pull the hub can you replace the studs or do you just buy a new hub?

 

In theory you hammer out the broken stud from front to back, then insert the replacement stud from the back and pull it in tight using the right sized nut. A wheel nut won't work to do this as you need an open ended nut. I have replaced two broken spacer lugs this way, and in my case I got lucky because the replacement studs came with a nice big 21 mm nut anyway, perfect for pulling the stud in tight. If you are able to find the right stud at a parts store then make sure you get a big open ended nut to go with it.

 

I'm taking the easy way out. I just ordered a new hub with the bearing in it. I'll replace the right side and then either buy another hub or put new studs in the part I have. I'll put it on the drivers side. Again, all the studs had been over tightened on the rear so I'm not sure I have complete confidence and I don't cut corners on stuff like that.

 

Take the old hub to Napa. They will locate the right size stud for you and may even have a press in back to remove and replace the old and new stud.

 

Just broke one of my rear studs today torquing them to less than factory-spec. Seems to be a common issue on these cars. Is Jaguar just using **** quality materials?

 

More likely someone over -torqued them once before. Probably a Porsche mechanic or some other German marque where there is a universal torque spec: Gutentight.

 

 

Hah...perhaps. I personally had never taken the rear wheels off prior, so whomever it was most likely did. I dropped the car off at the dealer this morning and was told they "may or may not" cover it under warranty. Riiight.

 

Those hubs are used on most of the Jaguar models... They are fine, removed at least 200 wheels from F-Type with no issue BUT they need to be torqued correctly. Use a drop of oil on the cylindrical part of the nut and on the washer, not on the thread every time you rassemble. With aftermarket wheels, switch to acorn nuts