Not always.
Yes, most aftermarket wheels need acorn nuts but a few (such as Coventry) stick with the OEM Jag mag seat set up.
So check which type of wheel nuts the wheels need before you buy!

 

Of course you will use what the wheel is machined for... Most of the aftermarket ones use Acorn nuts and I would like to caution folks to check before re-using the OEM ones. Also worth mentioning... I have seen several people install new wheels with nuts that barely engage 5 turns (the industry bare minimum is 6 turns, more is better)

 

 

Yes

 

When I had Costco put on my Michelin tires I had my OCD checklist.with me. One item was to ask that they hand tighten to 92ft lbs torque and the guy knew my list before I spoke it.

Still amazed at how great a job they did on my F-type. Didn't have to go back and have the torque checked because I have my own torque wrench.

 

2017 Jaguar F-Type S RWD British Design Edition
I had a tire company break the connector on my driver rear electronic parking brake and way overtorque all of the lugnuts on my wheels. I ended up busting the chrome caps off of two of the lugnuts, shearing the hex profile on the nuts underneath, and chewing through the rounded off nuts with nut removal sockets. My 700 ft-lb rated mid-torque milwaukee impact wrench was unsuccessful in shaking them loose at all. The heads both sheared flush to the base leaving me no option other than to drill out the stud with progressively larger drill bits: 1/8" to 1/2" at 1/8" intervals. Once I was able to remove the wheel I removed the brake caliper and caliper mounting bracket. I used a 6lb rubber deadblow hammer with moderate repeated impacts to shake the rotor loose from the wheel hub.
Two of the four wheel hub bolts were heavily seized. Due to the limited space to access the rear of the bolts, neither an impact or breaker bar could be used to help loosen the bolts. A map gas torch was used to heat the female thread locations on the front side of the wheel hub to expand the threads enough to allow me to back these bolts out. After doing this I realized that it was possible that heating this location could have led to heat soak through damage to the magnetic wheel speed sensor mounted on the upright behind and above the wheel hub. If I was to do this again, I would first look into the operation of this sensor and clarify that it doesn't require re-calibration or precise repositioning after removal then actually remove it to avoid possibly damaging it with applied heat. Once I had the wheel hub off I was able to punch out the shortened studs with a hammer and punch.
I discovered that the likely reason jaguar says the wheel studs are not serviceable is because a full length stud can neither be removed or installed without modifying the stud. The stud head bumps into the large assembly press fit onto the rear of the hub. Since the damaged studs were shortened by the drilling I did to remove the wheel nuts, I was able to remove them from what I will call the exterior stud ring with a hammer and punch. I measured the removed studs and the remaining intact studs and determined the critical dimensions needed for a replacement stud. As jaguar does not provide the studs, I decided to search for a suitable replacement instead of paying $450 for a new hub assembly. As Dorman seemed to be the OEM supplier of the wheel nuts, I assumed they would have a selection of suitable studs that these nuts fit on. The part number of the replacement studs I used was Dorman 610-543. The knurl OD of this stud is roughly 0.10mm larger than the studs I removed. I tried a different PN first, Dorman 610-470 that had a knurl OD roughly 0.50mm larger than the ones removed. This stud was impossible to seat and I ended up breaking my vice trying to use it as a press. Don't do that... I wanted the knurl on the replacement studs to be slightly larger than the ones I removed as I could see within the recieving holes that the process of initially setting these studs slightly deforms the hole and likely slightly deforms the stud. So using a slightly larger stud ensures a tight fit on the replacement after having removed the old studs. The 610-543 studs have a very slightly different geometry after the knurling than the OEM studs, the shank OD after the knurling is slightly less than the knurling OD while the OEM bolt maintains a constant OD from the knurling along the shank of the bolt. The length of the 610-543 stud is roughly 1-2mm longer than the OEM once fully installed but that difference is negligible and does not limit full engagement of the OEM wheel nuts. The 610-543 studs can not be installed into the exterior stud ring without modification, the large assembly mounted to the hub gets in the way. The solution I came up with was to flatten a portion of the circular head of the stud by cutting a straight line through one side of the head. This allowed enough clearance for the head of the stud to get past the assembly casing and slide into the hole. Once seated into the hole, it is a simple matter to punch the stud into place with a hammer and punch or to pull the stud through using a wheel nut, washer and impact wrench on the other side of the stud. These replacement studs have been on my car for a good 5,000 miles and I have not noticed any vibration or unusual behavior, and I don't expect I will. They actually look nicer than the OEM studs, they're grade 8 zinc plated bolts and I actually expect them to hold up better than the studs the car comes with stock.
Apologies for the lengthy post, but this is the kind of post I really wish I would have found when looking for this topic.

-Mechanical Engineer

 

Since I am about to get my tires changed in the next few weeks, I was interested in this thread.
The following article from Tire Rack explains pretty clearly the do's and don't's when torquing .
They specifically recommend NOT applying any lubricant (or anti-seize) as it will cause inaccurate torque readings.
The stated spec of 92 ft lbs would seem to apply only to studs with a diameter of 14x1.25mm or 14x1.5mm, and even then the Tire Rack range is 85-90 ft lbs
Does anyone have a published JLR spec showing 92ft lbs?
Does anyone know the spec for "standard" studs for 20 inch wheels on a 2021 R-Dynamic?

 

This is from OzXFR’s repair guide. The torque columns are N-m and lb-in. 1106 lb-in = 92.2 lb-ft.

I hadn’t noted the 3-stage torquing before.

 

Thanks, DJS.
Now just have to make sure that Town Fair Tire can follow instructions.

 

I would say the first torque spec is finger tight, the second is on car before lowering back to the ground and the third and final is once back on the ground.
This is pretty much the way I have always done it anyway except I never use a torque wrench (except once, see below) and for the final torque I just go with "two grunts and a fart".
I have torqued up the Jag wheel nuts so often now (gotta be pushing 1,000 nuts!) I can tell the correct final torque by feel and sound. Also the Jag "mag seat" nuts have a distinctive feel and sound, different to acorn and bulge nuts.
The one time I used a torque wrench was purely to test my "two grunts and a fart" method for accuracy and 19 of the twenty nuts measured smack on 125 Nm and the 20th was on 120 Nm.

 

Mmm, that sounds better than my "tighten it till it breaks, then back it off half a turn".

 

Wise guy 🤣🤣🤣!