It’s unfortunate that the OP never bothered to report back the resolution to this issue.

 

What a fascinating thread! Great entertainment but lacking in meaningful information. Came late to the party and I certainly don't want it all to kick off again. Forgive me if I've missed it, but no one has picked up the fact that he's selling the car but there are no photos, citing discretion/secrecy as the reason. It's easy to take photos of parts of the car without it being identifiable. Hmmm.
I reckon there are outside factors at play here: He's been caught cheating and his wife has poured neat petrol into the tailpipe in an attempt to wreck the car, or as a minimum, get him all wound up on a forum. I bet all his ties are cut in half too.

 

Wait so you mean you're not going to just sit on the car an accuse JLR of a cover-up conspiracy? You're going to let them actually examine it at the dealer and fix it? How can you be so certain they're not trying to screw you personally?
/s

 

This thread is part of the "worst of the internet" pantheon.

 

oh yeah forgot to say I have already filed a CLA against them haha.

was tinkering a bit more and collected some of the runoff from the exhaust. Now I’m even more confused than before. Starting to think it’s just a simple (not easy) blown head gasket, but I’ve never had an issue with smelling fuel so strongly. Either way it’s going to the dealer tomorrow. Probably be a few weeks before they get too it unfortunately. At least it didn’t spin a bearing like my 30k mike M235i did just recently.

 

Sorry,
Late to the game

 

SO got the update from the dealer. Bad #3 injector. Quoted me over $1200 to replace one injector. The injector is apparently only $400, so they are quoting me almost $800 in labor to replace it.

 

Hey guys, so the now missing OP explained that his wife had the car idling for awhile. Got me thinking about my V6 S. If it's been sitting in the garage for a couple weeks, I'm old school and like to let my car "warm up" a bit before driving. I suppose the options are 5 min, 10 min, wait until engine temp gets to x, or really no need to wait at all?

Not sure I need to do this, especially if it's not frigid outside, but welcome any thoughts about how long to wait before hitting the road, especially after a couple weeks or more of downtime.

Thanks in advance!

Michael

 

I let mine run until the fast idle drops to normal, which is enough time to buckle in, put on my sunglasses, and select some music. I then drive gently until the temperature gauge reaches normal.

 

+1. Exactly!

 

I wait ~10 minutes of running before I start wailin' on the throttle.

Remember, COOLANT warms up faster than OIL. (But with the recommended 0W-20, this may be a non-issue.)

 

Likewise.
Wish there were an oil temperature display available in the gauge cluster like in my GTI...

 

Steve, Unhingd, et al,

Thanks so much for the great feedback. As always, really appreciate all my brothers (and sisters) on this forum!

 

This entire thread would make a good Steven King book and movie.

 

I read to about the comments of 4-13 and got exhausted and quit so maybe this came up somewhere.

Many years ago I had a Corvette that had some body damage. I took to a friends body shop. It was winter and he worked on the car occasionally as a fill in project for his guys for a few months and gave me a special repair price. I was in no hurry.
After I got the car back I did an oil change. When I drained the oil I got about a big surprise. About 2 gallons or more of real thin oil that smelled like gas. I was driving the car after it came out of the shop a few days also.
The first thing I did was thank my guardian angel I didn't blow up with the car and then tried to figure out what happened.
The only thing we could think of is that the body shop would move the car out of the garage during the days they did not work on it and then drive it back in the shop at the end of the day. This was done often and un burned gas collected in the engine finding its way to the oil pan in this case.

I realize my experience is in many ways different than this situation. But my only point is weird stuff happens and maybe something did happen.

 

I'll bet it had a big carburetor to. They threw a lot of gas in that intake. A lot of the gas gets past the rings unburned. That's why when you start a carburetor car drive it till it gets hot to get rid of that fuel. Fuel injectors changed all that. Very little fuel wasted.

 

Not necessarily true, with Forced Induction combined with Direct Injection...

Short, cold-engine runs can result in gasoline in the crankcase. Luckily, the 7qt + capacity of the Jag engines reduces the possibility of this characteristic causing damage, if the oil becomes excessively diluted.

 

I always thought the computer controlled the open duration of the injector.

 

That's true, but realize that cold running requires more fuel so the ECU richens the mixture. Add to that: the clearances in the engine are often wider until the metal heats up. So, more unburned fuel can get past the piston rings and into the sump.

 

It was allegedly an issue with the early x100s with Nikasil engine bores. No carburetors involved.