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Washed car and got rough running w/ "injector circuit high" code
Oh man, am I stressed! I just received my new '19 P380 R-Dynamic off the delivery truck, drove it around a bit on city and highway, and then, after a couple of hours, took it to a self-serve spray wash. I was careful not to spray directly into vents, but soon after driving out, it started misfiring and running very rough. I hooked my code reader and got P0262 and P0274 codes, which are are "injector circuit high" codes. Also got misfire codes for those cylinders of course.
I pulled the engine cover and did not see much water under there at all, but I know this is a common issue. Car has 42.4k miles on it.
Any ideas on the issue and course of resolution?
This totally sucks, because I bought the car without telling my wife, and now she's gonna kill me if I have to take it to shop right away and pay a huge bill! Ugh! Help!!
Hey, thanks! That afforda me reason for optimism and the ability to calm down and take a strategic approach. I’ll chill to tonight and see where things are in the morning. But man, how flimsy is this car??
Hey, thanks! That afforda me reason for optimism and the ability to calm down and take a strategic approach. I’ll chill to tonight and see where things are in the morning. But man, how flimsy is this car??
Let's me reassure you. Given your description, this fault is not normal and requires investigation. I've owned mine for over 2 years and wash it regularly. I got the same hood vents and that never happened to me and to be honest, I'm unaware of anything of the type happening to anyone here on the forum since joining the community.
Are you aware of any work being done to the fuel system recently (sparks, coil, injectors, etc) I wonder if what happened was due to someone not putting things back in place properly leaving gaps behind. It's definitely worth taking this up with the dealer or garage your bought it from.
Once you get to the bottom of the story, search here "Engine cover modification" and it will likely show you a thread explaining the options to further improve the protection against water ingress to avoid injector problems in the long-term. Here's a what mine looks like after using a glued silicone mat to keep water away from the engine head and V valley. Keep us posted.
Random gremlins crop up when the battery voltage is low - as you've only just got the car it could be that your battery isn't as full as it ought to be. My suggestion would be to give it an overnight charge and then start diagnosing from there - you'll at least have eliminated one possibility.
Random gremlins crop up when the battery voltage is low - as you've only just got the car it could be that your battery isn't as full as it ought to be. My suggestion would be to give it an overnight charge and then start diagnosing from there - you'll at least have eliminated one possibility.
It's not a coincidence this happened right after a high pressure wash. Sounds like some water got into a connector. Open the hood and inspect everything for water. Charge battery fully, air dry, and report back.
Yep, check that things are dry and that the battery is ok.
The last thing you can call an F-Type is flimsy. Case in point: Clarkson's drive of a V6S vert across Mauretania and Senegal in The Grand Tour Sand Job episode.
Thanks, folks. This is not the intro to the forum I was wanting to make.
Sorry for calling the cars flimsy; I was displacing my anger at myself for risking a sight-unseen buy from a dealer down in the Nashville area. I bought a Lemon Squad inspection (which I wasn't particularly satisfied with), but still new I was gambling, and that's just not my style. The car was spec'd right and two others had gotten away, so I figured paying up for a more recent model with relatively low mileage (42k) was mitigating risk and maximizing satisfaction. Well, who likes being the sucker, right?
I was able to peek around a bit under hood last night but didn't see any obvious signs of water, just a few drips on the upper engine which seemed consistent with a wash. I had to run out last night so I didn't get far, but I pulled the cowl covers this morning and saw no signs of water having been under the cabin filter or the under the fuse box side. Everything is dry to the eye-- and quite dusty!-- but I don't know exactly where I should be looking or if I need to pull any other covers off. The coil packs are under the insulating covers on the sides of the motor, I gather?
I did put the battery charger on-- 12v AGM is correct, no?-- and the battery does seem to be a bit low (pic attached). I've not started the car to see the running status (or clear codes) this morning, and I'm unsure if I should. I'd appreciate any thoughts on next steps.
Saw these on a YT video and took a look. At the time ARID was just finishing pre-production and indicated that shipping would start late Feb. 2026. Paid and got in line. A bit of a backlog that ARID advised me of, but about a week ago, said they were shipped (UK). As of today, 3/15/26 it's on its way and I anticipate seeing them at the end of this week.
I did write the company to ask about taxes, tarifs and whatnot and the owner wrote back to say that the $68 is total due (to US). Shipping was $24, but I can't fly there for that.
Besides taking the engine cover off, if you have a leaf blower, see if that helps dispel any of the remaining moisture. Put an oscillating fan on a structurally supportive stand and aim it at the engine compartment.
I replaced the 'honeycomb' bonnet/hood vents on my 2017 with these. There is a narrow slot along one side that lets engine heat out, but this style vent keeps the water out. They weren't anywhere this expensive when I bought them, but besides being more attractive, they do get the water protection job done.
Take the engine cover off and look down around the spark plug and injector area for any water. After charging is complete fire her up!
Thanks. I did pull the cover and looked all around and as much under the SC as I could and did not see any signs of water last night or today.
I'll let it charge up, clear codes, and then fire it up. Fingers crossed!
If it runs, I was planning to take it up to my nearest Jaguar dealer (in Novi, MI, about 40mins away) anyway to get it checked over and get my Remote app set up, so I'll have them give it a thorough look-through.
Saw these on a YT video and took a look. At the time ARID was just finishing pre-production and indicated that shipping would start late Feb. 2026. Paid and got in line. A bit of a backlog that ARID advised me of, but about a week ago, said they were shipped (UK). As of today, 3/15/26 it's on its way and I anticipate seeing them at the end of this week.
I did write the company to ask about taxes, tarifs and whatnot and the owner wrote back to say that the $68 is total due (to US). Shipping was $24, but I can't fly there for that.
Besides taking the engine cover off, if you have a leaf blower, see if that helps dispel any of the remaining moisture. Put an oscillating fan on a structurally supportive stand and aim it at the engine compartment.
I replaced the 'honeycomb' bonnet/hood vents on my 2017 with these. There is a narrow slot along one side that lets engine heat out, but this style vent keeps the water out. They weren't anywhere this expensive when I bought them, but besides being more attractive, they do get the water protection job done.
I have read where other owners lay a sheet of heavy plastic over the engine before doing a wash... only a good idea if the engine has cooled!
Thank you. That newer style hood vent is what I have already so I didn't think I needed the additional shielding on the engine cover, but I'll certainly consider it if the problem is actually with the injectors rather than an electrical issue elsewhere. We'll see! Thanks again!
Just as follow-up, the charger eventually dropped down to around 13.5v and the status indicator flashed on 3 of 5 bars. It's been there for about 5hrs. It's only a 4 amp charger and so will probably need overnight yet, but it all does kind of suggest that the battery was pretty low, I think. Maybe that's a good thing in terms of suggesting low voltage culpability; it's something of a relief for now!
I was thinking, too, that when I had the PPI done, the inspector did plug in a code reader. I've read on the forum somewhere that doing so can prevent the can buss from sleeping or something like that? Could that be a factor in the low voltage here? The battery seems to be charging normally, anyway.
Just as follow-up, the charger eventually dropped down to around 13.5v and the status indicator flashed on 3 of 5 bars. It's been there for about 5hrs. It's only a 4 amp charger and so will probably need overnight yet, but it all does kind of suggest that the battery was pretty low, I think. Maybe that's a good thing in terms of suggesting low voltage culpability; it's something of a relief for now!
I was thinking, too, that when I had the PPI done, the inspector did plug in a code reader. I've read on the forum somewhere that doing so can prevent the can buss from sleeping or something like that? Could that be a factor in the low voltage here? The battery seems to be charging normally, anyway.
If that is the case, disconnect one of the terminals on the battery, for mine, I found the positive terminal to be easier to disconnect. Leave it off for at least 30 seconds. Connect the battery again and it should take care of that. Confirmation of this is, when you lock the car, look at the center red triangle and watch it go off in a few minutes. If it does, you are good.
Might want to do that now and then continue to charge the battery until fully charged.
Oh, another thing, I had to follow a reset of the windows. procedure is in the user's manual:
To reset the windows on a Jaguar F-Type (e.g., after battery disconnection), fully close the window, release the switch, then lift and hold the switch in the closed position for 2–5 seconds. Repeat this closing action up to five times until the automatic one-touch open/close function is restored.
If you do not do that, the remote functions with the app will not work. To avoid someone getting trapped inside the car or something along those lines. At least I had to do this to get the app to work correctly with my new car.
If your car is a convertible, you might want to pop out the trunk liner to be sure there’s no water in the bottom of the trunk, which could happen with a plugged drain. (I’ve never seen this in 12 years, but others have.)
If that is the case, disconnect one of the terminals on the battery, for mine, I found the positive terminal to be easier to disconnect. Leave it off for at least 30 seconds. Connect the battery again and it should take care of that. Confirmation of this is, when you lock the car, look at the center red triangle and watch it go off in a few minutes. If it does, you are good.
Might want to do that now and then continue to charge the battery until fully charged.
Oh, another thing, I had to follow a reset of the windows. procedure is in the user's manual:
To reset the windows on a Jaguar F-Type (e.g., after battery disconnection), fully close the window, release the switch, then lift and hold the switch in the closed position for 2–5 seconds. Repeat this closing action up to five times until the automatic one-touch open/close function is restored.
If you do not do that, the remote functions with the app will not work. To avoid someone getting trapped inside the car or something along those lines. At least I had to do this to get the app to work correctly with my new car.
Yes, I did pull the ground and yes, it greatly improved charging performance! It’s charging at +14v and the status indicator bars are filling up!
Thanks for the tip on the windows, too. I don’t have the Remote app set up yet, and was planning a trip put to the dealer for help on that. I signed up on a Jag website but was unable to link the car because it was still linked to the previous owner (I presume). I want them to give it a look over, too, and make sure everything is up to date and look at a couple of minor issues.
If your car is a convertible, you might want to pop out the trunk liner to be sure there’s no water in the bottom of the trunk, which could happen with a plugged drain. (I’ve never seen this in 12 years, but others have.)
Ah, it is a coupe, and I did pop the trunk liner when I disconnected the battery ground; it was crispy clean in there!
Yes, I did pull the ground and yes, it greatly improved charging performance! It’s charging at +14v and the status indicator bars are filling up!
Thanks for the tip on the windows, too. I don’t have the Remote app set up yet, and was planning a trip put to the dealer for help on that. I signed up on a Jag website but was unable to link the car because it was still linked to the previous owner (I presume). I want them to give it a look over, too, and make sure everything is up to date and look at a couple of minor issues.
They will have you call the Jaguar USA number and over the phone they will take care of all that related to the app. That is what they did with me.
Washed car and got rough running w/ "injector circuit high" code
