Actually never thought about it. I guess it engages automatically and I’ve never taken it off. I guess it makes sense to take it off.

 

Easy way to deal with a flooded engine (with fuel, not water!).

 

If possible, instead of fuel stabilizer get ethanol free fuel. It is the ethanol that tends to go "bad" quickly.
In your garage it sounds like you would put it on the rotating display stand that you surely have instead of overinflating the tires....
7 months, isn't really that long of storage

 

Yes that's exactly what I am saying? It's always been that way? Otherwise how would you ever clear a flooded fuel injected engine? The injectors would just keep pumping fuel into the engine unless you disconnected them.
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There is a documented sequence in the manual that describes what you can do to prevent the engagement of the brake on shutdown. Just releasing it with the release button for the brake is not enough, it will still engage once shutting down.

Most seem to suggest not having the brake engaged for long periods like that if possible. I plan to follow that advice myself.

 

Have you actually used this theoretical “clear flood mode” on your F-type? Just curious…

Would just be good to know if it’s actually on these cars, as there’s no guarantees. I’m still inclined to just pull the fuel pump fuse myself for some reason…That was suggested as a preferred approach in some reading I came across…Guy was suggesting that is more fool proof, as he knew of someone that did not for some reason get the peddle all the way to the floor and ended up revving the crap out of the car after long storage etc…Something like it didn’t get all the way down due to a mat or something…

 

Lol…Not sure what comment is about, but okay…Just trying to do the best I can for storing my vehicle man…That’s all. I’ve never had to store one before, so just trying to protect my investment.

No rotating display stand here. I overinflated the tires to 50 psi and put a cheap soft rubber mat under the contact patch of each tire…Suggestion I saw, and makes sense to me…Cheap and easy to do,..Between that and over inflating doubt I will have a problem…best effort

No ethanol free gas available anymore in my region. Not much I can do about that other than use Ethanol Shield…Testing I’ve seen with it shows Ethanol Shield actually works, which is more than can be said for some of those additive products. Fingers crossed.

 

No, never had a need to do that with the F-Type - it always starts nicely and runs sweetly. And I generally remote start it before use so few opportunities to test it. Maybe next time if I remember .....

 

There are other paths to achieving that (fuel pump fuse etc), but okay, makes sense. I have the impression from reading that most modern cars can do what you are saying, but some out there suggest it is not the case with all of them.

Only stating what I’ve read. I’m probably one of the least mechanically inclined people you would meet, so I can’t really speak confidently on these sorts of issues. I’m learning along the way here from peeps like you.

Thanks

 

I store my car every winter (usually 3-4 months) and I've never disengaged the parking brake, never added fuel stabilizer, and I've never done anything but start it normally (and letting it run to low idle) when bringing it out of storage. It's a non-issue on modern cars. It lives on a battery tender under a cover and I take the necessary rodent precautions but otherwise there isn't much too it.

 

Is your storage heated?

Are you using ethanol free gas? I don’t have that option so I’m choosing to at least protect against “ethanol issues” with Ethanol Shield, not necessarily because of its accompanying stabilization properties.

Do you have specific info as to why you are so sure modern cars can’t benefit from turning an engine over before actually starting after sitting long periods (upwards to 7 months in my case)? Again, I’m quite inexperienced with this sorta stuff admittedly, so I’m genuinely asking. Lots of competing ideas on this aspect of things. Some swear by the idea of taking some steps to move oil around prior to starting.

Appreciate your feedback as always Matt

Cheers

 

That reminds me that I saw a video a while back about how quickly oil gets up to pressure in a modern engine and they made the observation that modern ECUs will turn the engine over quite a few times before allowing the plugs to spark so the oil has a chance to circulate. I have noticed my F-Type does do a few turns before firing up.

 

I guess I’ve never really paid attention. That would make some sense I suppose. Thanks for your observations/thoughts. Much appreciated man.

cheers

 

There is another video showing how engineers had to figure out how to make stop/start work - about 7 changes had to be made to facilitate the "instant" start, including remembering the position of the engine so it can start firing straight away - normally the ECU waits for potentially a full turn of the engine for the timing mark to tell it when to let it rip. Interesting stuff, if you have an inquisitive mind!

 

Storage is subterranean and while not heated it probably doesn't get colder than 40-45F. And we don't have ethanol-free gas here in MA so it's 10% ethanol. Over 15% is where you can have trouble with it during long-term storage.

As for moving the oil around, modern engine blueprints do have much smaller tolerances and passages (some can be the size of a human hair) but also have much more precision manufacturing. Modern synthetic oils are also very good at lubricating quickly and even with the oil drained back into the pan for an extended duration, there will still be some residual coating on internal wear surfaces--enough to minimize wear in the very short time it takes the oil pump to circulate the oil at the proper pressure. Any wear that may occur for such a short duration would really be inconsequential in a modern engine. As much as I baby this car, even that's not something I'm going to worry about.

 

I tested this yesterday in my bone stock 2017 MT6 S and it started immediately and normally with the throttle all the way to the floor. Has anyone else tried this in other unmodified Fs?

 

I looked in my manual to see if I could find anything about the mode and there was nothing there I could see. Next was to try and find it in the Workshop manual.

So I guess you ended up revving the crap out of a cold engine…Interesting, so perhaps the F-type doesn’t have it after all. I was considering trying it through the week here, or this weekend, but based in this that’s probably a waste of time.

If one was inclined to do this whole thing the fuse for the fuel pump sounds like it might be the “safer”/preferred path to victory.

Thanks for taking the time to post that information.

 

No need to rev the crap out of it. You can lift when it catches quickly enough. I tried it with a warmed engine.

 

And it rev limits in neutral anyway. Or park. Or either?

 

Factory is 4,000 rpm limit in both N and P but a VAP tune removes this limit.