I'm looking at putting the F-Type away for winter storage. I've read several threads on here regarding which battery/jump posts up front to connect to. However, there doesn't seem to be a clear consensus and which is best, plus, the threads are a few years old. Is there any new info on this?

With the Jag in the garage for the winter, which placement is best for me to connect my battery tender/trickle charger to?

1.) The front jump points (by the front bumper)
2.) The large rear battery
3.) The small rear battery

On a side note, in addition to the battery tender, I'm going to fill the gas tank to full + add Stabil + put the F-Type up on Flatstoppers (foam) + CoverKing car cover. Anyone see anything wrong with this?

 

I connected mine to the bus bar in the trunk next to the rear battery. Foosh had a great post that showed exactly how and where. That way it took care of both batteries.

 

Battery Tender wiring instructions:

 

I have stored mine for the winter using Foosh's picture above. Works perfectly.

I have inflated my tires to 45psi in addition to using flatstoppers. Filled up using Shell V-Power (the only gasoline in Ontario without ethanol in it.) I also used steel wool to block the exhaust pipes - prevent critters from hanging out in there.

Come to think of it - I should also block off the air intake. Mice like that too. I have set mouse traps around the car.

 

Thanks folks.

 

Alternatively a search on the web will give you a free guide as per Jaguar dealer fit:

Battery Charging Kit [Jaguar F-Type X152] : JagDocs, The Source for Jaguar Documentation!

 

The Jaguar-marketed battery charger is no longer available at US JLR dealers, but the wiring instructions for that kit are identical to what is pictured above for the BT. I used the JLR instructions to wire it as I did pictured above.

And BTW, the illlustrations in those instructions are horrible.

 

My thicker black cable (ground), doesn't bolt to the body in an L shape like pictured. The cable is just straight and bolts to the body. I've also got another weird round plastic piece with a bunch of wires in that same area that is not pictured above. 2015 F-Type R Coupe. Was this prior to 2015 F-Types with the L shape?

 

14-15 cars had two batteries (main battery and smaller one for eco-mode) so the 16 wiring is slightly different.

Just attach the BT black lead (ground) to the single large black cable (ground) at the bottom of your picture. The red lead goes in the same place as the picture I posted above.

 

Thanks.

So looks like the 2016 models have the L, and the older ones have the straight cable.

In any case, we're all hooked up, good to go.

 

Has anyone considered just disconnecting the battery? Without the .7A drain of the car's systems, a healthy battery should stay that way for a really long time. Provided you keep it above freezing point.

 

Why? It's so much easier to put a $30 battery maintainer on it.

 

If you're just going to park it for s few months: 2 screws vs. 2 screws and $30.

Some battery tenders appear to require some additional installation too.

Hence the question.

 

[QUOTE=F-typical;1352798]If you're just going to park it for s few months: 2 screws vs. 2 screws and $30.

Duplicate post

 

Yes, a battery maintainer does require about 5 minutes of installation, 1 time only. Connecting and disconnecting the battery is about 5 minutes to connect and another 5 to reconnect each time, not to mention reprogramming all your memory settings.

 

Disconnecting or replacing a battery on a computer-equipped vehicle may cause starting, driveability and a number of other problems, including loss of air conditioning, power accessory functions (door windows, seats, sunroof), false warning lights, even damage to certain electronic modules! So if you are replacing or disconnecting a battery for any reason, proceed with caution.

Most vehicle owners manuals don't offer any precautions about disconnecting or replacing the battery. There may be some cautions in the factory service literature, but it is often hard to find even if you know where to look for it.

On vehicles with known battery disconnect issues, there should be a big red warning label on or near the battery to warn people. But except for shock hazards warnings on high voltage hybrid batteries, no such warnings are posted anywhere. None of the battery manufacturers warn consumers or technicians about the possible risks of disconnecting or replacing a battery on their websites. Consequently, most people do not realize that disconnecting or replacing a battery may cause a problem until after they have done so.



I own a auto storage facility, we highly recommend that owners never remove or disconnect their batteries , instead we recommend that they use a battery maintainer.


Every year we have clients who try to save $20-$30 and end up spending thousands to tow and replace their ECM of worse in one situation the computer in the transmission failed and required a new tranny.

Last year we had a Porsche boxter owner who removed his battery after locking his car including the front bonnet. Big problem all his locks were electric. Come spring he arrives with his battery and wants to reinstall it but cannot open the front bonnet or his doors....he had to have it dragged out of the warehouse and loaded onto a flat bed tow truck and sent 200 km to the nearest Porsche dealer to have it opened up. He saved the $20 and spend around a grand to get his car back on the road. He now books a battery maintainer for his storage.

 

So all those cars coming out of the factory and being loaded on to ships are plugged into battery tenders?

Also, I'm pretty certain that on the assembly line they only connected the battery at the very end - and that was to move the car to one of the test areas. Maybe they were is some special state.

 

Although - based on personal experience - if you just park it for more than a week without putting it on a battery tender it panics the first time you power it up and demands that you turn the engine on.

 

You do realize that the dealership could re-program the car after arrival if the battery died.

 

Factory to dealer is less than 30 days, actually the crossing time to North America is less than 14 days and in some cases is only 6 days.