Maybe the problem is in the lead you've connected to the alleged charging points?

 

Not sure I follow you....the charger appears to be working - just not when hooked up as per the diagram posted her. My vehicle and all systems are working, so I assume the connection point on the car itself is functioning....hence the reason I am confused. Hooked up as per diagram, not working - yet not sure how to troubleshoot that. My knowledge of electrical 'stuff' is very limited. Appreciate any suggestions.

 

Not sure about your charger but with my CTEK there are different leads for croc clips and bolt-ons, and the charger plugs into one or the other. I was suggesting that the bolt-on lead might have a problem. If your install is different, this won't apply.

 

 

 

 

 

Wiring directly to the battery bypasses the battery monitoring circuit, so the car doesn't know that battery has been charged. No idea if this matters in the slightest. Unclear to me if the ECO battery would get charged in that scenario.

 

Good tips on longterm storage, Thanks! Especially appreciate the stopper suggestions!

 

Appreciate this!!

 

Is there anything I need to be aware off when hooking up the tender to the two connection points in the trunk battery compartment.
I'm concerned about unscrewing the two nuts, pos.and neg. Could this harm any of the electronics if there is a spark. Also, will I need to reset anything.

Thanks

 

You will need to reprogram your preferred center cluster display and may need to reprogram the auto-up functions and the rear hatch if you have a coupe. All easy things to do.

 

I've not had to reset anything. If you don't move the wires, your battery won't disconnect. Just unscrew the nuts, throw the battery tender leads on top, and replace the nuts.

 

I agree with Nati. I didn't need to reset anything either.

 

I know of one '15 F owner who spiked his convertible's electronics (BCM, maybe) when he hooked up the CTEK charger connections.
He rendered the HVAC controls inop, as well as his center screen.


Don't know the details, he didn't want me to come over and help disconnect his battery or his BCM as others have done. He instead chose to pay to have the local dealer reset his car (that's all he could tell me). Took 'em ~one hour...

 

I definitely got some sparks when I installed mine. If I were doing it again, I’d disconnect the battery first, just to be safe.

 

I’ve been using battery tenders on cars and motorcycles for many, many years, and almost always connect directly to the battery terminals.
That’s how I have my current MY 18 set up now. Simply opened the trunk, exposed the battery, BT positive to batt positive, BT negative to batt negative, plug in, done. I get the appropriate color code that battery is charging (or charged).
After sitting like this for about a month and a half I disconnected the BT and it started right up. No issues, no resets...
Am I missing something? Hope I’m not damaging anything.

 

Car batteries give off small amounts of hydrogen gas. That's what that little rubber vent tube is for. If you connect to the terminals right at the battery there is a possibility that the spark when connecting ignites the hydrogen gas

It strikes me that it's a low probability event and seems to be advice that's widely ignored.

 

Yes, I think you are missing the fact that connecting direct to the negative battery terminal bypasses the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) module and doing so can cause problems. Much better to do as JLR recommend and connect the negative lead from your tender to an earth/ground point. That is why there is a dedicated earth/ground point in the engine bay near to the positive charging post.