Winter Storage (Battery Tender Questions)
I don't think it does. I don't think the secondary battery is used for cold start, just ECO starts. Keep in mind, the car can be started without the secondary battery installed.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 286
Likes: 39
From: PA
OK, so reviving this thread a bit cause I just installed my battery tender similar to the way Oz installed his. If I had to do it over again, I may just go with the temporary solution and attach/detach the cables as needed. Here are some of the speed-bumps that I encountered:
1. Broke my drill bit when I punched through the charging post
2. Couldn't find the perfect length screw, so had to hack saw one or two until I found what I liked
3. The red cap that fits over the charging post is so cut to fit that its almost a "why bother having it" at this point. My connector has a very bulky piece of plastic covering the connection between the ring and the tender wire so I had to snip that down some, but still bulky.
4. Due to the length of my screw, I had to cut the tether to the red charging post cap because that happens to be where the screw was hitting (I was not cutting the screw again)
I think if I had the perfect length screw and my tender wasn't so bulky at the end of the positive wire and I didn't break my drill bit I would have a slightly different outlook.
On a side note, should the stock batteries be charging at 6v or 12v cycle?
1. Broke my drill bit when I punched through the charging post
2. Couldn't find the perfect length screw, so had to hack saw one or two until I found what I liked
3. The red cap that fits over the charging post is so cut to fit that its almost a "why bother having it" at this point. My connector has a very bulky piece of plastic covering the connection between the ring and the tender wire so I had to snip that down some, but still bulky.
4. Due to the length of my screw, I had to cut the tether to the red charging post cap because that happens to be where the screw was hitting (I was not cutting the screw again)
I think if I had the perfect length screw and my tender wasn't so bulky at the end of the positive wire and I didn't break my drill bit I would have a slightly different outlook.
On a side note, should the stock batteries be charging at 6v or 12v cycle?
OK, so reviving this thread a bit cause I just installed my battery tender similar to the way Oz installed his. If I had to do it over again, I may just go with the temporary solution and attach/detach the cables as needed. Here are some of the speed-bumps that I encountered:
1. Broke my drill bit when I punched through the charging post
2. Couldn't find the perfect length screw, so had to hack saw one or two until I found what I liked
3. The red cap that fits over the charging post is so cut to fit that its almost a "why bother having it" at this point. My connector has a very bulky piece of plastic covering the connection between the ring and the tender wire so I had to snip that down some, but still bulky.
4. Due to the length of my screw, I had to cut the tether to the red charging post cap because that happens to be where the screw was hitting (I was not cutting the screw again)
I think if I had the perfect length screw and my tender wasn't so bulky at the end of the positive wire and I didn't break my drill bit I would have a slightly different outlook.
On a side note, should the stock batteries be charging at 6v or 12v cycle?
1. Broke my drill bit when I punched through the charging post
2. Couldn't find the perfect length screw, so had to hack saw one or two until I found what I liked
3. The red cap that fits over the charging post is so cut to fit that its almost a "why bother having it" at this point. My connector has a very bulky piece of plastic covering the connection between the ring and the tender wire so I had to snip that down some, but still bulky.
4. Due to the length of my screw, I had to cut the tether to the red charging post cap because that happens to be where the screw was hitting (I was not cutting the screw again)
I think if I had the perfect length screw and my tender wasn't so bulky at the end of the positive wire and I didn't break my drill bit I would have a slightly different outlook.
On a side note, should the stock batteries be charging at 6v or 12v cycle?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 669
Likes: 119
From: Arizona Desert
I second Unhingd. I have been putting a Jag on a battery manager for a dozen years. I use the standard one that Weather Tech, Jag and a lot of other people sell made by CTEK SWEDEN AB. I use the two posts under the bonnet and gently close it. No drama and very easy. The reason I use the posts is that I am guessing the charge will get to the second battery. But I am just guessing about that. Note that the program selected affects the voltage range. It took me a while to figure that out.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 286
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From: PA
DOH!! Thanks for reminding me. I'm hoping I will be glad I went the route I did at some point.
Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 44
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From: Market Harborough
Sorry, mine is currently at the dealer so cannot look. Whereabouts is that? Presumably I need to take a cover off? I used a CTEK for many years to keep my M3 charged but am new to the F Type. Just got mine a month ago. 2018 model. Having said that I intend to use mine throughout the winter (UK) but might lay it up for a week or two if it snows.
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 75
Likes: 18
From: Listowel, Ontario
Lots of battery tenders out there feature a 'lighter' adapter that you can just plug into the power outlet in the car to charge it. Anyone have experience with one of those and our F-Types? Curious if/how they work compared to something wired directly.
Member
Joined: Jul 2018
Posts: 75
Likes: 18
From: Listowel, Ontario
Interesting, as the Jag website sells a battery tender for the FType and it is designed for the outlet in the trunk (not sure my year or model has an outlet in the trunk, but newer ones must). Maybe the trunk one remains live while the cabin one shuts down?
just seems so confusing about how to hook a tender up properly with the two battery system, was hoping this was the answer.
just seems so confusing about how to hook a tender up properly with the two battery system, was hoping this was the answer.
Interesting, as the Jag website sells a battery tender for the FType and it is designed for the outlet in the trunk (not sure my year or model has an outlet in the trunk, but newer ones must). Maybe the trunk one remains live while the cabin one shuts down?
just seems so confusing about how to hook a tender up properly with the two battery system, was hoping this was the answer.
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Southampton, UK
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Metrowest Boston
Right, but you wire the port in yourself, and presumably wire it into the battery so that it isn't switched. In my case, I attached the Battery Tender pigtail as the MY14 directions show, to the power bus near the battery. I just pull out the pigtail from the battery compartment when I need it, and close the trunk on the battery tender cable.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 167
Likes: 45
From: Antwerp area / Belgium
On the other hand, a rectangle hole is a bit more work to make compare to just drilling a hole.
The one I used - benefit compared to the Jag one, it has indicator leds for battery status.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 151
Likes: 58
From: UK
I would echo KVO's comments, the CTEK is the same as the jaguar accessory, but with a charge indicator. You can use the installation instructions for the official accessory when installing (not that they are the easiest instruction to understand). If you want to know more you can see here -