Hi Thomas,
I hope you realize that Version #3 is more compact but is more restrictive to coolant flow. Fluid, be it gas or liquid, does not like making a 90 degree turn and the actual flow area (X-section) of V3 in the corner will be 1/2 to 2/3 the actual area of the inlet ID. There will be non-flow areas (turbulence) before and after the inside corner of the bend and at the outside corner of the bend. See my sketch for a visual explanation. (I hope this works) :-)

 

I had the same thoughts about this Bob, and could it cause an area of stall or cavitation between the backing plate and the impeller?

 

^^^
I was gonna mention that but you beat me to it.
(';')

 

Remember that Thorsen has deepened the cavity under the inlet with a spacer. Also the danger of overheating is more when the coolant flows round too fast than too slowly; I have proved this to my cost when I "improved" the inlet arrangements to the water pump on my XJS!
So my money is on the Thorsen system being quite OK. Remember too that he is fitting an electric pump, which should be quite capable of adjusting the flow to take care of things.

 

Bob,
Thank you for the comments and the picture. I acknowledge it is not as efficient of a transition as a sweeping 90 or 45 and it certainly looks less elegant.

Here is the math on why I went with v3.

The -16 AN bung fitting on v2 has an ID of .675". Using A=pi * r2 I come up with a surface area through the fitting of .36 sq in.

V3 has an ID of 1.17" which means I have 1.08 sq in through the fitting.

The choke point in the system is still the passage through the timing cover to the block. It measures out at .99 sq in.

I felt the wider opening through v3 was a better solution.

 

The goal today was to wrap up the transmission project and I was able to catch up to my current parts stash.

First up was the bracket for the throttle valve (TV) cable. If you remember the TV cable connects the accelerator pedal to the transmission and controls shift points and line pressure. It is a critical component of the 700r4 and installing this incorrectly can cause the clutch packs to burn up quickly. The best approach here it to take it slow and make sure you understand what you're doing.



The bracket mounts between the accelerator pedal bracket and the firewall.
I did have to fight with the transmission gear selector rod to get the clearances functional but in the end I came up with a position that made everyone happy.


I'm not a fan of the bling, but a flexible transmission dipstick makes it easy to make sure there is enough ATF.


This was the final piece of the kit and for the life of me I can't figure out why it's there. It goes behind the accelerator rod pivot point on the firewall but nothing attaches to it.
I decided to leave this off for now.


Lastly I put together an adjustable rod to secure the alternator pivot.


I still need to have my wife step on the gas pedal while I verify the TV cable is moving correctly inside the transmission, but that's an easy one.

The lines for the transmission cooler got some attention today. I started making them with AN -6 hoses but decided that the cooler I bought wasn't big enough. Somehow one of the hose ends got misplaced as well.

 

Hi Thomas,
Agree that the surface area is 1.08 sq in until you start flow fluid through it. Then the area is considerable smaller. Assume you loose only 1/3 of the area, leaves you 0.72 sq in. Now the fitting maybe the choke point. Many times package dictates compromises as we all know. You still have to package the fan(s) too.

Greg In France said - Also the danger of overheating is more when the coolant flows round too fast than too slowly;

Hi Greg,
Yes and no, if coolant flows too fast, it does not allow enough time to transfer the heat to coolant, If coolant flows too slow it can create localized hotspot in the engine where the coolant actually boils. Neither is a good situation. Everything is a balancing act.

Great discussion all!

 

We have a winner in the belt category. 6pk1300 is the correct length for this.
I had originally planned on using a 4 rib belt and picked up a 4pk1300, but when I saw the 6pk1300 right there I decided to take a $10 gamble. The 4pk1300 can ride around in the trunk in case I ever need an emergency spare.



The belt rides true across all 4 pulleys.


With that done I started measuring for radiator hoses and came up with a pretty good layout.
Then I moved on to the AC condenser. It's going to be a tight fit but it looks workable.

 

That condenser is HUGE, you will have great cooling down south!
The belt run looks absolutely top notch.

 

Whew! Just finished reading the entire thread. It took me days and I'm exhausted. This is the sort of thread that makes forums special. Thank you, Thorsen.

I'm very jealous about "My local driveline shop" and similar. Chicago must be different than my one-stoplight town in the Adirondack Mountains. For my driveshaft, I had to drive an hour to a drop off point, from which the actual shop was another hour away. But it was also a place to get local beef, so I did enjoy a few good steak dinners.

Some might be jealous over my garage, which has both a two-post and four-post lift. It's foolish to waste time thinking about which one would be best; you need one of each.

I might have started a thread like this for my Mk 10 EV conversion project, which was fairly complicated, but perhaps not as much as this one, altogether. No belts, no alternator, no TV cable. But two cooling circuits, a. computer with four CANbus networks, and bright orange cables carrying fatal voltages. I think many people would have preferred I find a good XK engine to re-install, but in my mind the car had already been "ruined" with a small-block Chevy. My best defense to objectors is to say "This is what the cool kids are doing". I am 73.

But you are very much a cool kid, too, Thorsen.

 

I took 1.5 weeks off from work to spend some time on the beach, but I got back to town this weekend and after catching up on yard work I got back to the Jaguar.

The first item was to hook up the emergency brake. I had picked up a new cable a few months back and it had been patiently waiting it's turn.


If you look on the driveshaft, you can see where the bracket that held the bearing for the original two-piece driveshaft scratched the paint. I removed the mount that held the bearing on the original 2 piece driveshaft and crafted a bracket to connect the new emergency brake cable to the actuating cable.


The pan that came with my new transmission did not have a drain plug so I found a pan with a drain. I used a LubeLocker gasket and new hardware to secure the pan.


I had SendCutSend cut some brackets out of stainless steel that had a hole that would fit a Summit Racing silicone exhaust grommet.


These will make a clean way to mount the exhaust system.


I had decided a few weeks ago that I did not like version 1 of the exhaust down pipes so today I made version 2. I used a flex coupler on the rear down pipe to allow for expansion as the system heats up.


I got about half the system welded up today before I ran out of v-band flanges. I have more coming tomorrow and I hope to get this wrapped up soon.

 

Welcome back you were missed.

 

It was a short night in the garage but was able to get the heater box and fan reinstalled.
I thought it was going to be a battle finding a 3.25" hose between the fan and the box but it took less than 60 seconds to find one.
There's a little piece of blue tape I used to hold the bolt in the wrench on the lower right; I need to pull that off.


After a long battle I was able to finalize the location of the water pump and the orientation of the hoses. I need to do one more test fit with the radiator in situ before I put the heat-shrink hose clamps on.

 

Yeah, I was gonna mention that blue tape.
A real mechanic would have made sure that was off BEFORE the photo op.

 

I pulled it off after dinner. I wasn't going to let that stop me from Taco Tuesday

 

Tonight I was able to finish plumbing up the radiator. I started using Gates PowerGrip hose clamps a year or two back and I really like how they clean up the appearance of the hoses, especially when using sections of silicone to get the right diameter and orientation of hoses.
I try to use screw-type hose clamps on the radiator and water pump (or water pump blanking plate in this case) because once you shrink the PowerGrip clamp the only way to get it off is to cut it.


With the radiator and hoses in place, you can see I missed my goal of having enough room to mount an electric puller fan behind the radiator.
I still achieved my goal of not having the share the water pump pulley with the AC compressor. If this was baseball I'd be getting paid millions of dollars a year for a .500 average


Up front I started to stack up the AC condenser and automatic transmission cooler so I could start to get an idea of what space I had for a fan. I ended up ordering a Spal 14" pusher that does 1,800CFM at 17 amps. That should push enough air across all the heat exchangers to keep things cool.


Friday I'll be able to pick up my fuel tanks that were cleaned and sealed. My goal this weekend is to finish the exhaust system and fuel system. That leaves the wiring as the last thing before I am able to go for the first test drive. If I can drive this around the block by the end of this month I stand a strong chance of being able to take it on my annual 2,000 mile road trip to the South Alabama British Car Show.

 

Thorsen
Is there room fo a couple of 12 inchers? I am a bit leary about cooling, and I am not sure one 14 incher, as a pusher, will do it in hot weather. Or one 16 incher at 25 amps, maybe, you have an nice big alternator to feed it, after all!?

 

That's a great question and I originally started looking at 16" fans. The highest rated CFM 16" pusher fan that Spal makes is the straight blade version that does 2,000 CFM at 23 amps. Spal is kind enough to provide a nice dimensional drawing of their fans and if you take the outside of the diameter as well as the thickness of the fan at the outer edge and match that to the car - it's going to cause problems. Specifically the grill would no longer fit. To make it fit I would have to trim the outer shell of the grill as well as remove 2-3 of the grill fins for clearance and I don't want to do that.

I also looked at twin 7" or 9" fans but I would not get enough CFM to make me happy or I run into the space constraint again.

It's similar to the problem I faced with thinking I could fit a fan behind the radiator. The car looks large and you think there is plenty of room but when you get in there, you realize it's not as big as you thought.

 

Would it be possible to move the radiator stack closer towards the engine, and thus provide enough room for a bigger pusher?

 

I looked at a couple of options. One was modifying the radiator shell, another was modifying the radiator itself. A third option was looking at at universal radiator that was thinner than the one I have now. I considered putting a remotely mounted AC condenser under the car.

If this fan isn't big enough I'll take a serious look at the 14" Spal brushless fan. It's rated for about 2,000 CFM at 40 amps but at $850 with the PWM controller I'm not in a rush.