Don't even bother with it, if it's anything like the one in your link it's not a very good pump.
I believe it's just a small electric motor in there with carbon brushes doing the job.
The motor is probably cooled by the flow of fuel, but in the end the brushes wear and you don't get any fuel.
It may run, but it's probably not running fast enough and/or the impeller in there is worn out.
I would just bite the bullet and get an original SU pump with an updated condenser in there ( I think they use a diode now, much more reliable).

Even with the old condenser, those SU pumps went for decades, they were incredibly reliable.
When I was growing up, my dad had a P5 rover, and he never had to touch the pump, we stopped driving the car because it simply wore out and rusted away.
I don't know why anyone would want to put in one of those crumby after market electronic fuel pumps.
It's an answer to a problem that never existed.

 

Haha - it has always seemed to me to be a cheap pump. But while it worked I wasn't going to complain. Yeah, buying something the cost of the SU pumps from Barratt's barely fazes me if it works.

Those fuel pumps are "ground sensitive" (negative earth, positive earth). My understanding of that is if the positive post of the battery is connected to the body and/or chassis, then it is "positive earth". If negative post connects then it must be "negative earth". Does that seem right to you? I'd hate to buy something and not be able to use it

 

SNG Barratt or Burlen.
HP Electric Fuel Pump - Dual Polarity - SU Carburetters

I think this is the right one, but it's best to contact them to be sure.
It's dual polarity too, so it will have the updated condenser in it.

And your understanding is correct about polarity.

If you want to buy one of those inexpensive pumps, they are made of plastic, so it would be isolated anyway.
If your car is positive ground, then the red wire would hook up to the body and the black wire would hook up to the lead.
Just pay attention to the wire colours and connect it accordingly.

 

This looks terribly similar, and I already have an account with Barratt:

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

 

There is a 1307 and a 1308, but I'm not sure what the difference is, they both look the same.
Over at Burlen there are two of them anyway.


At SNG the one for 145.00$ must be the solid state type.
I would just go with the points type, but that's me, I'm old school.
The points are a nice simple design that works well and has been around for decades _ no need to fix something that was never broken.

 

I need to "triple-check". I believe my car is a "positive earth" car but I'm not 100% sure. I agree that keeping things simple is a good idea. What benefit could be had from the electronic model? Is it better for racing?

 

I believe that the public is brain washed into thinking that electronic stuff is better and in the case of a fuel pump, there's no gain what so ever having it electronic.
Once the solid state unit in there quits, you're stranded and that's it.
With the old points you could at least do an on the fly repair and get home.


But the points never gave any problems anyway, they would go for 10 or 20 years with no maintenance.

 

20 years? Pretty sure that will be long enough for me - lol

 

"Parts on Back Order". Momentum totally stopped

 

It is fuel pressure difference 1307 is 2.7psi and the 1308 is 3.7 psi, I think it is the 1308 that should be on the Jag, both have the same flow rate.

 

AZX1308# is the one that I got. But it's on back-order - Grr

 

Sorry- that is pretty frustrating, when you are so close to getting the car running. Gives you time to work on other things

 

This is true (sigh). No excuses not to makeover the living room and dining room now. Ah well, they'll look nice for Thanksgiving.

 

It finally arrived. But with Christmas, you know, priorities. I got itchy fingers last night so I attached all the necessary hoses to the fuel pump. I still need a couple of bolts to attach it to the chassis so I will be visiting my favorite hardware store this week.

 

So Gene- how is this coming? Making any progress?

 

Sadly no. I don't work well under 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Highs lately have barely been 30 lately. I plumbed the fuel pump on our dining room table.

The cold weather has damaged my daily driver Honda and killed at least the battery in my truck so I may have some higher-priority work when it warms up.

I still intend to be driving the Jaguar this Spring.

 

Yes! finally I have progress to report. After my fuel pump came in I plumbed the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the engine compartment. I manually pumped the fuel to the end of the line and then...

Realized that I could not find the ignition key. Smack my head! Where the...

Long story short I finally found the stupid thing today, promptly turned the ignition to see if I wired the Fuel pump correctly. Those first few loud clicks were quite unnerving. I shut it off and checked the forward fuel filter(FFF) in the engine compartment. It had gas in it! Yay! So I turned it on again for a bit until the clicking noise subsided. Checked again - leaks! Dangit! Tightened the hose clamps and left it shut down. We had a function to go to so I cleaned the gas off me. I checked later and all the gas had evaporated.

So... if all goes well tomorrow we'll turn the motor over. Some pics of what I've done with the fuel system:

This is how the fuel pump looks, installed in the "boot":


FFF before I started the fuel pump:


And after. Almost like I knew what I was doing, eh?

 

Finally resolved the fuel leaks I found around the engine compt. fuel filter. Did multiple leak-checks, then I thought, what's the worst that is likely to happen? I started her up with very little problem. She idles high, uncomfortably high actually, so I think I need to review carb adjustments. Or it could be throttle linkage issues, right?

I still drove her around the block. She wasn't unsafe, but she needs a lot of TLC. Loud brakes, for one.

When I make a driving video I plan on posting it here. Only video I've made since starting here up was of the tachometer and the engine noise... But THAT is music to my ears

 

So...

I double-checked/adjusted the throttle linkages to return the butterfly valves to close position when the gas pedal is released and gave it another go. Idle RPM was under 1000 - Yay!

So I went out with my Unisyn to balance my carbs and realized I'm in over my head with that device. I think I'm going to take my car down to a shop and ask them to show me. Every video I see with SU Carbs use different carbs than mine so and I'm just not sure what I'm doing, and I don't want to damage anything.

I'm not sure if this is a problem: After the engine warmed up I started seeing lots of smoke or steam. It didn't really smell awful, and it is humid tonight, but could there be a problem?

More later

 

Congrats on getting it running! The smoke could be anything- once it has warmed up and burned off all the oil and moisture from having sat for so long- can you identify a source? Does it smell like oil or like vaporized anti-freeze?


I never had much luck with a Unisys either. My goal is to get it running, and then take it to a carb expert to balance, etc.