1961 Mk2 3.8 Restoration
Looks like that rust is in the front footwells, there is a repair panel for that area. it is normally around/above the jacking point, which you may need to remove too to facilitate the repair, just look at it as more welding practice !
Unfortunately I have never welded, and I have no welding equipment. I know there are a few places on the body that will need to have metal replaced. Apparently I'll have to add this to the list :P
I have finished installing locks (barrels) and I'm down to 2 keys. Essentially I got most of my information from the Jaguar Manual and a handful of inspiration from old(2013) entries from this forum. And I used copious amounts of PB Blaster(love that stuff!) Pics I took are mostly too dark and too close-up to distinguish but I will post what I did if requested.
Last time I took the car out (weekend before last) my acceleration was horrible, it seemed to me that I had to rev very high to accelerate at all, and at the end of the drive I noticed my oil pressure was way down. Pulled over, and when I checked, oil was low.
Got me thinking that if I'm burning oil my compression might be down. So I checked that today. I doubt that I have done it completely right but here's what I came up with:
Cylinder
6 - 120
5 - 120
4- 150
3 - 150
2 - 140
1 - 145
Assuming these are good readings for a 3.8L how does this compression compare? What do you read into these numbers?
Got me thinking that if I'm burning oil my compression might be down. So I checked that today. I doubt that I have done it completely right but here's what I came up with:
Cylinder
6 - 120
5 - 120
4- 150
3 - 150
2 - 140
1 - 145
Assuming these are good readings for a 3.8L how does this compression compare? What do you read into these numbers?
Gene
on those readings compression is down on 5 and 6 and a little low on 2 but not terrible, try the checks again to make sure you have correct readings, then you could try a leakdown test to try and isolate the issue, hear is a good article on how to perform this if you don't know.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test
on those readings compression is down on 5 and 6 and a little low on 2 but not terrible, try the checks again to make sure you have correct readings, then you could try a leakdown test to try and isolate the issue, hear is a good article on how to perform this if you don't know.
https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-...-leakdown-test
Jon,
I tried to get you the measurement, but can't get to it without raising the front of the car on a lift, can 't even see the tie rods ffrom the front or from the rear from either side.
I tried to get you the measurement, but can't get to it without raising the front of the car on a lift, can 't even see the tie rods ffrom the front or from the rear from either side.
Thanks Jon and Jose. It's been over 20 years since I've done a compression test on anything. Very unnerving to listen to - the old girl sounded like she was writhing in pain
Glad I remembered to disconnect her fuel pump before starting
Glad I remembered to disconnect her fuel pump before starting
Been about a month so I reckon I better let y'all know I haven't been a total slacker.
During the last month I have taken the car down to the shop that I want to do a lot of the interior and exterior work. They did the following:
- Tuned the engines and carbs. Their lead mechanic says the carbs "were not that bad"
- Replaced forward suspension bushings and shock absorbers
- Replaced leaky heater valve
Went to a local tire place
- Replaced 40(?)-yr-old tires
And this past weekend I personally changed the differential gasket and diff oil
I'm talking with a transmission shop about fixing my automatic transmission. It works, but it lags a bit more than I want.
During the last month I have taken the car down to the shop that I want to do a lot of the interior and exterior work. They did the following:
- Tuned the engines and carbs. Their lead mechanic says the carbs "were not that bad"
- Replaced forward suspension bushings and shock absorbers
- Replaced leaky heater valve
Went to a local tire place
- Replaced 40(?)-yr-old tires
And this past weekend I personally changed the differential gasket and diff oil
I'm talking with a transmission shop about fixing my automatic transmission. It works, but it lags a bit more than I want.
Thank you for the invite though. It helps to motivate me
Progress: Last night I pulled out the wooden dash (two 7/16 nuts and a light) and the after-market tape deck someone installed in the 80s.
Mile 47917 - Yesterday I drove down to get my fire extinguisher inspected/recharged, then drove over to ascertain what size wheels/rims I will need to order(I need 15x5 wheels). Then I drove a box of parts that I'm not likely to use for a while down to storage.
She did well, but my oil pressure gauge showed low pressure as the engine got hot. Everything else seemed fine for short trips.
She did well, but my oil pressure gauge showed low pressure as the engine got hot. Everything else seemed fine for short trips.
This corroborates what a mechanic told me - that a higher high-temp viscosity will be good. Guess it's time for an oil change
Thanks Jose!
Thanks Jose!
You welcome Gene,
when I bought my XJ-6 in 1989, I went to the local Jag expert and started picking his brain (of course), he told me the same thing, nothing but Castrol 20W50 in XK engines, not Mobil, not Exxon, no synthetic oil, nada, nothing but Castrol.
when I bought my XJ-6 in 1989, I went to the local Jag expert and started picking his brain (of course), he told me the same thing, nothing but Castrol 20W50 in XK engines, not Mobil, not Exxon, no synthetic oil, nada, nothing but Castrol.
I know that feeling!! After four or so years of restoration, my engine, Daimler V8, ran - Oh, the joy!! Congratulations, congratulations, and more. It is great when you have done it yourself!!






