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MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

1967 3.8S Refurbishment

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  #41  
Old 10-11-2018, 02:40 AM
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The Canadians are happy. People must use what they are happy with. But because something is outside your frame of experience does not make it irrelevant. There will always be exceptions to the common finding. The transil makes sense. Why does Burlen/SU not do that OE? Burnt points are as old as the SU pumps.

BTW ~ I have Canadian/British heritage.

My post was not intended to start a pissing match. It was to give some sage advice. Once people have exhausted efforts blaming the OEM they then blame the oil company ~ hence my experience
 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-11-2018 at 06:36 AM.
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  #42  
Old 10-12-2018, 12:02 AM
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Pretty happy day in vintage Jag-land today. Found one new fuel pump locally, so installed that and, Voila! Consistent fueling and an enjoyable 20 mile drive through town and around.

Not happy with how the hoses from tank to pump (more of that nylon line we were talking about) are securing at the top of the tank. I gather it's a compression fitting, but the line remains loose to swivel so maybe the wrong compression sleeves were used in the past. Or is it different than I think? I want them reasonable snug to ensure the pump can't suck air, and to limit fumes.

Finished up a couple of little carburetor items, and hoping to put fueling aside for a while. Time to figure out the transmission fluid leaks, hopefully without committing to pulling the transmission.
 
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  #43  
Old 10-12-2018, 01:54 AM
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Why no just use bulk regular black low pressure fuel line from an auto parts store ?
I believe it's 1/4 of an inch (with out checking).
That's what I have on mine _ I've also used some small hose clamps too, taking care not to over tighten them.
 
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  #44  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Pabarlow View Post
Pretty happy day in vintage Jag-land today. Found one new fuel pump locally, so installed that and, Voila! Consistent fueling and an enjoyable 20 mile drive through town and around.

Not happy with how the hoses from tank to pump (more of that nylon line we were talking about) are securing at the top of the tank. I gather it's a compression fitting, but the line remains loose to swivel so maybe the wrong compression sleeves were used in the past. Or is it different than I think? I want them reasonable snug to ensure the pump can't suck air, and to limit fumes.

Finished up a couple of little carburetor items, and hoping to put fueling aside for a while. Time to figure out the transmission fluid leaks, hopefully without committing to pulling the transmission.
Great news ~ some of the original nylon pipework had little black polymer? ferrules shrunk onto it. We substituted little brass ferrules of the correct size and the joints are all tight & leak free. I'm sure they are obtainable in many sizes your end. This was done on new OE nylon pipe we had and is still in place. The pipe I replaced with black hose is from the pumps (banjo) to the metal pipe splitter that goes over the wheelarches, joins the two pumps & tanks and connects to the front metal fuel pipe that runs down the Chassis rail to the engine compartment. (picture of alcohol split hose below)






 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-12-2018 at 10:06 AM.
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  #45  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:24 AM
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plumbing seals! haha!

Glyn, there is a water drain pipe for the cowl vent on the firewall.

connecting to it is a 90 degree hose facing the ground wiith a membrane seal at the end of the hose which opens with the weight of water, then it closes after water is emptied.

can't find it in the Parts Manual. All Jaguars have it. Do you have one in your S type?
 
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  #46  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:37 AM
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Thanks Glyn and Jeff. I have no problem running regular fuel hose and clamps where the factory nylon lines have issues, such as the pump outlet hoses to which Jeff refers. But for that top-of-tank one, the replacement ferule is exactly what I'm thinking. I probably have some in my hardware drawers.
 
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  #47  
Old 10-12-2018, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jose View Post
plumbing seals! haha!

Glyn, there is a water drain pipe for the cowl vent on the firewall.

connecting to it is a 90 degree hose facing the ground wiith a membrane seal at the end of the hose which opens with the weight of water, then it closes after water is emptied.

can't find it in the Parts Manual. All Jaguars have it. Do you have one in your S type?
Jose, ~ Indeed baby plumbing seals ~ hydraulic ones. The scuttle vent drain tube is molded & drains to below the car. No membrane seal that I know of. It is just pushed onto the large firewall drain nipple. No clamp. Some holding tabs on the lower scuttle/firewall. Yes I have a new one fitted. One of the final engine compartment jobs we did. Part No BD10370


 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-12-2018 at 01:47 PM.
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  #48  
Old 10-12-2018, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Pabarlow View Post
Thanks Glyn and Jeff. I have no problem running regular fuel hose and clamps where the factory nylon lines have issues, such as the pump outlet hoses to which Jeff refers. But for that top-of-tank one, the replacement ferule is exactly what I'm thinking. I probably have some in my hardware drawers.
I did a test fit with the brass ferrules & stripped the joint again to ensure they were doing the right job & they were. You don't want gasoline fumes around. Plenty of wiring on the LHS (you can see my new correct black with blue fleck harness in the background. A friend lost a restored Jag to fire because he was too cheap to replace a crumbling wiring harness. Every harness & wire is new on my car. Runs through new grommets with no chafing.) I've tried my best. Insurance will have to cover the rest.

Jaguar has a pretty elaborate breather system on the tanks with that coil/loop of thin nylon tube & then running down the side of the tanks into the airstream under the car. Ensure they don't get blocked.


 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-13-2018 at 02:59 AM.
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  #49  
Old 10-15-2018, 11:31 PM
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Continued progress on the 3.8S, but I also might be at a major decision point due to a previously mentioned issue.

I finished up with the fuel tanks, pumps, hoses and fittings, and I think everything is 100% there now. I resolved an issue (with the help of these forums) in which the auxiliary starting carburetor was overflowing with gas - yes, front carb float height set wrong, so reset both front and rear. Fixing that further improved the engine tuning overall, of course, as did another couple of hours of work to get the throttle linkage set up just right. I really like how this motor runs and the car drives.

I'm making progress on engine oil leaks - there doesn't yet seem to be anything really major there.

But that transmission... I mentioned it was leaking badly, and it isn't the wishful pan. It might be the front main seal, though I gather there are other options too. I really was hoping not to have to pull the motor and transmission. But it can't go on in its current state. Rear diff is leaking a little, too, though I'm more comfortable dealing with that.
 

Last edited by Pabarlow; 10-16-2018 at 12:22 AM.
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  #50  
Old 10-16-2018, 02:13 AM
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Ah yes ~ turn on the ignition & the pumps don't stop running as they should when they come up to pressure & you know something is overflowing ~ ever growing puddle of gas under the car.

You are steaming ahead!
 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-16-2018 at 07:04 PM.
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  #51  
Old Yesterday, 02:22 PM
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Hello,
I see you have a DG250 automatic transmission ( looking at the Dipstick )
I have a S-type also, original RHD, changed to LHD,( not very difficult to change, but steering house and dash needed.)
Also electrical not all to diffucult to do ( only one wire was to short, rh flasher light )
Anyway, that DG250 will always leak, how hard I tried, never got it leak free ( all seals and gaskets replaced twice! )
I now have converted to a GM T700R4 using John's car kit ( from the US )
Less revs at the highway, and no leaks anymore!.

Regards,
Peter Jan
 
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  #52  
Old Yesterday, 11:43 PM
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Thanks for the note, Peter. I do think, that if changing the accessible seals with the transmission in the car does not provide significant improvement, and therefore the motor/trans need to come out, then I think I would go ahead with the "sure fire" swap rather than mess around with the DG-250. That said, I think the DG transmissions are good units and function well, when they can contain themselves!
 
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