Yes, I need some help removing the generator but my real problem is with the neighbors. Let me explain. I have attempted to remove and replace the generator (with a new one) at the end of the camshaft without removing the cam cover or anything else. As you know, there are three ¼-20UNC socket head bolts which are removed with a ¼” hex key. The space back there is very limited. My hands are too big. The wrench is too long. I considered going on diet to shrink my fingers. I offered my grand daughter college tuition, she refused. I dropped the wrench many times, but I was prepared with 6 wrenches. My wife complained about my language. I solved this by increasing my radio volume. Now the neighbors are complaining. Six wrenches later I managed to unscrew and remove the three bolts. I expected the generator to allow itself to be withdrawn towards the firewall. It only moved about 1/16 inch backward. I thought to lever the thing off with a screw driver but it did not move with reasonable pressure applied and I was afraid to damage something. I am a coward. I put the three bolts back in, and because of my newly acquired prowess it only took two hours. The neighbors did not improve. My question is should I just pry that thing out no matter what the force required?

 

There is an O ring in there that is probably holding it. Once the 3 bolts are out, then it should just pull out.

 

I removed mine easily. But you need to rotate it as you pull it, left and right while pulling.

 

Be gentle and don't apply heavy forces
If it is that tight you may have to undo the camshaft cover.
I had to do that once where some idiot had glued the tacho generator in with silicon jointing compound to stop the oil leak which a new O ring would have fixed.
Cheers

 

Read this & attached threads.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...around-239385/

 

This is what I did.
Remove the air cleaner so some large packing blankets can be placed on top of the engine, this is so you can lay on the engine to keeps your arms free.

Use a rather large towel to stuff between the engine and firewall. (white is best)
This is to catch anything that falls, it's also used to place a small mirror in such a way so you can see what you're doing.
Place a light in there so you can see.

You will need a ratcheting 1/4 inch box end wrench _ this is to fit a piece of allen key wrench to fit in the bolts that hold the rev counter in place.

Insert the cut down piece of the 1/4" hex stock into one of the rev counter bolts and pack some Butyl Rubber on the head to keep the hex stock in place.
It can't be greasy, clean the heads of the bolts with a new tooth brush and acetone _ acetone evaporates very fast and works well for this, don't use paint thinner _ it's too oily.

The trick is to cut the hex wrench down to just the right size so the 1/4" box end wrench will go on.
There will be room, if there isn't, use the Butyl Rubber tape to attach the hex stock to the wrench and use it that way.

When it's off, make sure you can thread the bolts in by hand, this will be not so difficult as the rev counter will not be in the way.

Taking the hood off will also make the job much easier, if you really get frustrated.

3M 08578 Butyl Rubber Strip Caulk @ FindTape

 

It's a very long time sice my tacho generator gave up and I went through this process. As I recall, it was fairly easy, except that I dropped something. I don't remember if it was a socket or a screw, but the fishing trip to recover it from the top of the gearbox or somewhere equally dark and inaccessible was a long one. The towel or similar is a very good idea.

 

This is really easy if you don't drop something. Likely the O ring binding or someone has applied a sealant. Only necessary to remove cam cover if the bush has moved on the old generator (Unlikely to cause retraction problem) or the plastic drive piece has broken up or severely worn/damaged & jamming something. I replaced mine very quickly with a Craftsman flex joint extendable mirror & a magnetic LED light to see what I was doing & obviously the right tools. Mirror available round or oblong. I prefer round. The shaft is strong but manufactured like an old style car antenna to extend. Available at any Sears. Make sure to fit a new O ring. Remember this is an AC device.


Back of round mirror.





Collapsed mirror shaft





LED Magnetic & rotatable USB charged light. Runs for 7 hours on a single charge easily. Very bright. Light intensity starts dropping off at approx 10 hours but still good. Much better than an old style incandescent lead light.

 

I am really impressed with all of the responses to my posting. All of the advice is to the point and shall be used. I believe I will remove the generator following the procedure of JeffR1 with the blanket on the engine but I confess some trepidation that my wife will see this and suggest I continue this nightly arrangement indefinitely.

 

I have a strong 2 step aluminium ladder with a raised hoop & strong plastic top that can hold tools.. I'm exactly 6 foot tall with fairly long arms ~ American shirt longest sleeve length. Its low with small step gaps. flat, deep steps so your feet don't get sore. We all curse Gravity. They have stopped making it.

I frequently find if I just stand on the first step & lean against the hoop for stability that it makes things easier. I wish I had Cass hydraulic lifter though.

Unfortunately we all built differently. What works for one will not work for all.

 

The problem of working on things that you can't see and are close to impossible to reach is one that never goes away. In the X150 XK subforum, there's lots of discussion of the infamous duckbill, an item that costs a couple of pounds, and more than a hundred times as much in labour to access and change. I can just reach and free up mine with the middle finger of my right hand working from the right side of my car and go through the process every two years. By all appearances it should be easier with my left hand from the left side, but I find it impossible. Like soldiers rebuilding their rifles in the dark, it's a matter of learning and practice. And, most of all, it's all part of the fun!

 

I like the leaning over the engine on blankets bit if I got bored I would end up falling asleep where I lay.
To ease access when working at the back of the engine I always remove the bonnet. Four 1/2 bolts and lift it away with assistance. Yes they is the thought you might miss align it when putting it back on but it is easy to cinch up and adjust for a good fit before tightening but it gives you so much more room to get at the Rev generator.

 

A little masking tape to line things up goes a long way, or two tiny holes drilled works well along with the masking tape.
One can use the end of shank of the drill bit to get things exactly where they were.

3/32 size works well, 1/16th is getting a bit small.

 

Before you remove the bonnet you can either mark around it with a marker pen to ensure it goes back on in the same place or i've known some people drill a hole through the hinge and inner bonnet skin to get perfect alignment, the later requires a steady hand as if you push too hard when you go through you could dent the bonnet!

 

I did not remove the bonnet and it is obviously helpful to do so. I think it needs to be warned that this is just removing the bonnet from the hinge mechanism. If you remove the hinge mechanism from the inner fender is where you really run into bonnet alignment issues with the scuttle top & chrome side beadings. The hinge pins are fairly loose & you can have difficulty aligning the bonnet. ~ a real fiddle on some cars due to the hinge mechanism & centre rubber. You usually end up with the bonnet standing high on one side which irritates me to look at. My **** Virgo tendencies showing.

After much cursing trying to get the LHS of the bonnet low enough my Restoration man said to me now you go home and feed the dogs! I arrived the next morning to a perfectly aligned bonnet. He had worked late into the evening & got it perfect. I compared my hinges with my 2 donor car's hinges & sloppy hinge pins was much the same.

My hinge tops are painted to the bonnet.

Misalignment like this. Excuse if this car is yours ~ This clip of the pic is pretty anonymous:

 

I cannot work out if anything goes between the male end of the tach generatort and the female slot in the end of the camshaft. The manual exploded diagram doesnt really help me. Some people are referring to something that may go between? Confused

 

There is nothing in between.
The male tacho drive slots into the female end of the camshaft

 

Thanks Bill !