Just so you know I actually own an X300. However, I am going to install a Bushed differential strut on my car from an X308. So I went to the local You Pull It and found a 2000 XJ8. I got under the car to take a look at what I needed to do. So I started to pull the Fulcrum bolts out but realized that the bolts will not come out because the trunk is in the way. If you have not been to a You Pull it they have the cars jacked up on some makeshift stands so everything hangs freely. Once I noticed that the bolt won't come all the way out I said to my self..."Self I think you will need to pull a lof the wheel suspension otherwise if you did get the bolts out everything would fall on your ***. Hopefully, your phone is handy because you will be calling 911". So I stopped and am here asking for suggestions. This is what I am trying to pull
https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...hbone-assembly

#13

 

 

Hi to all,

To remove the differential monostrut you don't have to take out the fulcrum bolts. At least I don't see how this helps to remove the monostrut.
The monostrut is fixed by two bolts #15 to the body and two bolts #7 to the upper mounting points of part #6.
All you have to do is to remove #15 and #7 bolts, loosen or remove the sping pan bolts so that you can drop the rear axle a bit. Maybe you also have to loosen the 2 big bolts going through the huge a-frame bushes to free up some more space. Doing so you'll have enough space to manoeuvre the monostrut off the car. Don't forget to support the rear axle before loosening the bolts for dropping the axle.

Cheers, Alexander

 

You are correct after I think about it. I also need to pull the bracket #6 from above since the x300 does not have one and I need the fulcrum bolts for future use. I think that I will have to jack up the tires to relieve pressure on the wishbone but again I think I will still have the issue of the bolts hitting the trunk. Really dont feel like dropping the whole rear axile to just get those bolts out.

Rear Spring bolts? Where would those be located

 

Well, since the bracket is an integral part of the rear axle and which is the only thing supporting the backside of the differential, there's almost no way around of having the rear axle dropped off the car. The two huge rear mounting stubs of the differential are also bolted to the bracket.
I was talking about the spring pan bolts/nuts (top of each spring) - there are four of them at each side.
Only three points are connecting the rear axle to the body. Differential monostrut, Spring (pan), a-frame bushes.
So if you remove the fulcrum bolts, the monostrut and the bracket you'll end up with a very instable rear axle assembly hanging above your head (wishbones are free, differential's back isn't supported anymore and the whole assembly has lost it's rear connection to the body.

There's no need to be afraid of dropping the rear axle...it's an easy task (removal of monostrut to body bolts, removal of spring pan bolts/nuts, removal of a-frame bolts/brackets, disconnection of propshaft, hang out the exhaust mounts from the rear axle's hinges). Do a forum search or have a look into the workshop manual.

 

Now that I have it in hand I need to change out the bushings. Any recommendation on removal and insert

 

Jaguar issued special tools to franchise dealers. You can rig up something or find the special tools somewhere??

Here is a TSB we got about 20 years ago.

bob

 

Hi Phil,

What equipment do you have on hand for replacing bushings? Hydraulic press? C-clamp type ball joint service kit? If you don't have either of those, you can probably use a section of threaded rod or long bolt with a socket on one end that is just a little smaller in O.D. than the outer sleeve of the bushing but able to contact the outer sleeve all the way around, and a socket or pipe fitting on the other side with an I.D. a little larger than the bushing sleeve to allow the bushing to pass out of the monostrut. There is a lot of info online about this method. For example, here's a link to the use of this method on an XK lower shock bushing, but the principle is the same:


Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure the bushing bores are clean of corrosion or remnants of old bushing rubber. Put your new bushings in the freezer for at least 30 minutes prior to installation, and take one out of the freezer at a time just before you install it. This contracts the O.D. of the bushing sleeve and makes it easier to press into the monostrut.

Before you remove the old bushings, check how far they extend out on each side of the strut. I can't recall if they extend equidistantly on each end or are asymmetrical. Just check and if necessary take photos so you know how far to press the new bushings in.

Cheers,

Don

 

Just thought I would post this just in case anyone else needed the procedure.

Thought I would need a press and this is all I needed
8 Inch Bolt and Nut
10 Washers
1 3/4 socket
1 1/4Socket

The 1 1/4 Fits right on the metal bushing. 1 3/4 to receive the bushing and just start cranking. Came out with no issues

 

Hi Phil,

Thank you for reporting your success! I have moved your post to your original thread so all the relevant posts are together.

Cheers,

Don

 

I was able to get the new bushing in with ease. First lubed up the hole with white grease. The found a heavy duty washer that would just fit over the center of the bushing and extend past the diameter of the bushing. Put a socket on the top of the washer and then a washer on the other side of the bushing hole where the bushing was going to be inserted into and put another socket on the side. Put my bolt through and then started two tighten it down. Goes in like "budder". No press needed