I am installing a rack and pinion steering unit supplied by M&C Wilkinson in the UK. This requires fabrication of new steering linkage - no big deal and I have all of the Borgeson components - thanks to others on the list. If you look at the frame rails in the engine compartment you will note that Jaguar cut out small sections of the rail flange ( a roughly oblong arc of about 6" I would guess) to provide for clearance of the original linkage. The rack installation requires a similar modification slightly to the rear of the original cut.

Yesterday I ATTEMPTED to install the front crossmember because I wanted to be sure about the location of this new flange cut, but also to go ahead and measure and make the linkage.

I jacked the front end to sufficient height to roll the crossmember assembly under the car. I have the crossmember on a low (4" I guess) moving dolly. I placed two tie-down straps around the assembly. I then used my engine hoist to slowly lift the crossmember into position. Everything went according to plan. The front mounts went into place nicely. The rear mounts are new. There is a forward and rearward position of these mounts and I have them in correctly. Front to back, the rear mounts lined up perfectly with the holes in the frame rails; however, I could not raise the crossmember high enough to line up the holes on the mounts and the frame rail perfectly. I am about 1/8" off, but that 1/8" is a show stopper!

Rather than pulling up the crossmember, I tried putting a jack directly under the crossmember at the rear mount, but when I jacked the crossmember upward I simply lifted the whole front end of the car.

I wondered if that would have happened if the engine was in place?

At any rate, I had no success and finally gave up for the day. Today I will try again.

I am going to pull one of the rear mounts off of the crossmember (two bolts) and try fitting just the mount to the frame rail. I am wondering if with a new mount, and therefore new uncompressed rubber, if my problem is with the new mounts. I remember having a problem with the new rubber motor mounts on my AH 3000.

If that is the problem, then what?

I am open to any ideas.

I really don't think the engine weight (or loss of it) is the issue. If you watch the assembly plant video of the MK2. The engine is not in the car when it is lowered onto the front crossmember, engine transmission, propshaft, exhaust and rear axle with springs.

 

I was able to get the blasted thing in this afternoon. Good thing I am not in the restoration business. I spent five hours yesterday and five again today to install six bolts! I think I would be out of business.

I have no secrets to pass along. I did use a hand grinder and cut down the inside surfaces of the mounts, that is inside the "V", ever so slightly. I installed the mounts into the crossmember, but did not tighten them. This seemed to help a little because it gave the mount a little room to shift side to side. Everything was still very tight, but I did eventually get them in place.


Lin

 

Not sure if I fully understand your issue, but when I replaced my front crossmember after converting to the original ADWEST power steering, I renewed all the rubber mounting blocks and found that I also was out by a cats smigen in securing the front rubber mounting. It turned out to be that the "new" crossmember assembly was catching against the body side members where the lip protrudes. The answer was to cut a V slot in the lip only about 5mm in depth and he presto, everything lined up perfectly!

My car is a 1965 Mark II 3.8 that was a South African CKD

Great minds must sometimes thin alike in that I also own a 1966 Austin Healey BJ8 details of which are on my registration (may be under the Modern XJ community in that I also have an XJR.

Best of luck

 

I checked my part order and discovered that the “V” mounts had come from SNG Barratt. Upon closer examination I determined that SNG Barratt sells two varieties of the “V” mount. The lower price variant was $31.17 at the time of order, and the higher price version was $73.55 when I checked. Sure enough, I had ordered the less expensive option. I called SNG Barratt and enquired about the difference between the two and was told that the more expensive mount was a “precision” piece. I ordered the “precision” mounts and replaced the ill fitting items and sure enough the definition of “precision” is that the parts fit! Very frustrating! Why would you sell something that does not fit – or at least not without modification.

The new mounts are visually much the same but obviously have slight differences in manufacturing tolerances that produced better results. The more expensive mount does have a “Metalastik” and “Telleborg” manufacturing imprint apparently indicating a quality piece. Metalastik and a branch of Telleborg merged to produce rubber/metal bonded products.

So if you are going to be replacing your "V" mounts, save money elsewhere - order the more expensive option.

 

I am going to get my old ones and weld them up,front and back mounts and make them solid.

 

I'm about to tackle the susp. crossmember. No doubt I'll need new mounts, so I thank you sincerely for your experience & advice!

 

They have both for cost cutters. Welding them solid will create problem down the road as the Jaguar engine is not a smooth item and can vibrate very well. Plus the rubber mount keeps the road bumps smoother too.

 

engine will be a 4.2 v8 na,