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Banjo Bolts and fuel lines, and where to put jackstands?
Hi all,
I was wondering about how best to replace these plastic fuel lines (1966 S-type) that run from the pump to the main fuel line? I can't think they're in great shape after 55 years. Seems like both ends of the connection are practically heat-fitted on and going to be a real bear to replace?
Also, I have the original S-type jack and while it's ok, I'd like to use a more modern floor jack. Are there jacking points I can reliably use with a floor jack, and where should I put my jack stands? Thanks much.
Probably a wise idea to change the plastic/nylon fuel pipes due to the increased use of ethanol in the modern fuels. The increase in ethanol can rot out older fuel lines. You can buy new ethanol safe fuel pipes of the correct internal diameter from most auto suppliers which you can cut to length. The Banjo and metal pipe fittings can remain just but some small correct size jubilee clips to secure the ends.
As for Jacking the car up I have a 1967 S Type and I have never used the jack in the boot. Not because it is not safe or the jacking points are not secure as the car has been fully rebuilt but I just find it fiddly to use. When at home I have a large hydraulic car lift on my drive that I always use for safety when working under the car. If I was to get a puncture when out and about I would used the Jaguar jack in the jacking points. That said there are lots of areas that a trolley jack or axle stands can be placed under the car. The jacking points being the first if your car is solid. Secondly just in from the outer sills you have the main chassis legs running the length of the car. I have also slid a low profile trolley jack under the front subframe to lift the front of the car. Lastly for axle stands when I have used them I have placed them under the front and rear subframes with a small rubber packer underneath to stop any scraping of metal to metal.
I'd leave the line alone. Nylon is compatible with ethanol, it's the rubber fuel lines that had trouble. As long as the lines are not leaking let sleeping dogs lie. The reason I say that is it is very difficult to get the old lines off and not damage the barb. The slightest nick from a knife on the barb is a spot that will leak, so you might create a leak in the process of trying to "improve" things
I use a floor jack under the front suspension cross member, or at the rear under the IRS if there is a piece of wood as a spreader. Jackstands can go under the original jacking points.
I'd leave the line alone. Nylon is compatible with ethanol, it's the rubber fuel lines that had trouble. As long as the lines are not leaking let sleeping dogs lie. The reason I say that is it is very difficult to get the old lines off and not damage the barb. The slightest nick from a knife on the barb is a spot that will leak, so you might create a leak in the process of trying to "improve" things
I use a floor jack under the front suspension cross member, or at the rear under the IRS if there is a piece of wood as a spreader. Jackstands can go under the original jacking points.
I would leave original nylon lines alone but any replacement line that was supplied by jaguar in later years is not compatible. 10 to 12% Sasol heavy alcohol does this to the so called correct material. 1 week exposure.
Banjo Bolts and fuel lines, and where to put jackstands?
