Do You Know Jack?
Pictured is the 3 ton floor jack that I use to lift my car in order to place the stands underneath.
It occurred to me that it would be better to have something that inserts into the slots provided. While the rubber cushion does a reasonable job protecting the undercarriage, it seems it would be better to have metal instead of plastic between the jack & the frame.
Is such a device sold; if so, where can it be purchased? I suspect it would be easy to have something made.
Thanks.
It occurred to me that it would be better to have something that inserts into the slots provided. While the rubber cushion does a reasonable job protecting the undercarriage, it seems it would be better to have metal instead of plastic between the jack & the frame.
Is such a device sold; if so, where can it be purchased? I suspect it would be easy to have something made.
Thanks.
Steve, a cushioned pad is specified (stated as "must" be utilized) for all jacking and jack-stand usage. Always lifted in pairs, as in both front or both rear, or all at the same time. FYI.
Thanks, Box.
OK, agree that the pad is a good idea.
I jack one corner at a time in increments so as to not lift one corner dangerously high. In other words, if jacking the front, I move from side to side; same when doing the rear. I haven't needed to lift front and rear together and can't see a situation where I would.
Having said that, I still think it would be better to have something to insert into the factory "holes"in the frame to get a little distance away from the plastic undercarriage.
OK, agree that the pad is a good idea.
I jack one corner at a time in increments so as to not lift one corner dangerously high. In other words, if jacking the front, I move from side to side; same when doing the rear. I haven't needed to lift front and rear together and can't see a situation where I would.
Having said that, I still think it would be better to have something to insert into the factory "holes"in the frame to get a little distance away from the plastic undercarriage.
When I attended Jaguar Training (NP04) New Product 2004 we were advised to NEVER let a STEEL jack component touch the aluminum body!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The inclusion of tiny bits of steel are an invitation to corrosion.
I always use blocks of wood on all my vehicle lifts or floor jacks.
If you feel you must use a metal 'block' on the body seam, use ALUMINUM.
Here is some info for the precautions of transporting the X350.
bob
The inclusion of tiny bits of steel are an invitation to corrosion.
I always use blocks of wood on all my vehicle lifts or floor jacks.
If you feel you must use a metal 'block' on the body seam, use ALUMINUM.
Here is some info for the precautions of transporting the X350.
bob
Hockey pucks rule!! Those of us up north have them comming out our ears. I thought about cutting the groove in them to go over the seam, like the Bimmer fools buy at 50 times the price of pucks. I do have to give the Bimmer guys some credit, as they were the ones that gave me the idea. Look up BMW jacking pads. I have found that even on drive up lifts, in order to clear items underneath the pucks give me the needed clearance. My tire guys love it when I bring in the pucks. They refuse to try to jack with floor jacks due to being aluminum/plasic panels and too low to get at the inner jack points. Instead I drive it on to the alignment lift, raise the lift, and then raise the car at the inner jack points using the pucks as spacers. It seems like it is alot of work to change/balance tires, its really faster.
Whats scary, is when you see the Jag dealer jack it on a 4 point lift right on the seam. I crapped my pants the first time I saw this. They said they only do it when they lift the car at all 4 points at once. This puts equal pressure on all 4 points at once. If you were to jack just at 2 points like this, you would probally fold the seam. I dont entirely buy this therory, but they say they have never folded or damaged a standing seam. I'm not going to be the one to fold a seam.
Ramps at home help. They give me the clearance to get under and place a jack/stand. At that point I just need to take the pressure of the wheel to pull the ramp if removing the wheel is nessasary to the task.
Whats scary, is when you see the Jag dealer jack it on a 4 point lift right on the seam. I crapped my pants the first time I saw this. They said they only do it when they lift the car at all 4 points at once. This puts equal pressure on all 4 points at once. If you were to jack just at 2 points like this, you would probally fold the seam. I dont entirely buy this therory, but they say they have never folded or damaged a standing seam. I'm not going to be the one to fold a seam.
Ramps at home help. They give me the clearance to get under and place a jack/stand. At that point I just need to take the pressure of the wheel to pull the ramp if removing the wheel is nessasary to the task.
Last edited by Mark in Maine; Feb 21, 2016 at 11:48 AM.
I use a hockey puck on the jack and for extra protection I have taken 5/8th car radiator heater hose and cut them to 5 inches long and cut a slit down the hose length wise. Then simply slide the split hose up onto the seem and it holds there very well. Cheep, durable and Works great.
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I ONLY have twin post 4 point lifts in my shop. I ONLY had twin post 4 point lifts when I worked at the Jaguar Dealer. The body seam has a double pinched area specifically for the lift points.
When I went to Jaguar training center in Mahwah NJ (Corporate Headquarters) they also had 4 point lifts.
Just don't place STEEL against ALUMINUM body seams and you won't promote corrosion.
Aluminum is not WEIRD if you have ever worked on aircraft. I have my A&P as well as VW and Jaguar training. Different metals just need different techniques.
bob
When I went to Jaguar training center in Mahwah NJ (Corporate Headquarters) they also had 4 point lifts.
Just don't place STEEL against ALUMINUM body seams and you won't promote corrosion.
Aluminum is not WEIRD if you have ever worked on aircraft. I have my A&P as well as VW and Jaguar training. Different metals just need different techniques.
bob
I ONLY have twin post 4 point lifts in my shop. I ONLY had twin post 4 point lifts when I worked at the Jaguar Dealer. The body seam has a double pinched area specifically for the lift points.
The doubled metal seam areas are just behind the front wheels and just in front of the rear wheels. There is a small cutout in the plastic sill panels. The same place you set the factory issued jack in the tool kit in the boot.
bob
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