Going to lift the car for checking out the ATF. Difficult to see where to put floor jack to lift front or back. I planned on putting the jack stands where the jack points are for the car's included scissor jack.

Any thoughts? Pictures would be most helpful as well. Thanks!

 

Alphacat, if you are using the stock jack, then use the points that are called out for the car. If you are using a floor jack, then I would tell you to go to something a bit more solid than those jack points. On the front end, I put my jack just behind the subframe mounting plate. There is a nice structural beam that is about 15" in from the side of the car. You look under the car, you will see it. The body rolls down, the floor of the car goes up a little bit and then the next thing to be sticking down is that structural member.

For the rear of the car, if you look just in front of the rear tires, there is a lift place that is tucked up behind the body. This spot is between the bottom of the body and the trailing arm that runs front to back. Just need to be careful of the fuel lines on the passenger side as they run right there.

 

I expect the workshop manual JTIS - free download - shows where (as it does for the S-Type).

 

The quick answer:




The full section from JTIS including all safety advice:

JTIS - X Type Lifting Points.pdf

Graham

 

The only problem i see is that the lifting points for the rear are the same place for the stands

 

For me the problem is complicated by my lack of work space. Between my boat in the garage (loaded full of crap that would be difficult to move) and my workbench (likewise ;-) ), I can fit my car in the garage with just enough room on each side to sidle alongside it. It would be difficult, if not impossible to use the trolley jack from the sides. I had hoped to raise the back and front using a cross-member or the differential or other frame point, but saw in another thread that doing so could mess things up. If those are the only jack points that are "safe" I'll just have to see what I can do to create more room to work in. If anyone else has thoughts on it, please feel free to chime in. Thanks!

 

You could buy a jacking beam that will fit between the jacking points then jack up in the middle put stands under each end, job done.

Beams are available in the UK for around £70

 

Harbor Freight sells a low profile jack. You can get an attachment for this that is an adjustable cross bar that goes under the spring arm assembly, and you lift up the whole front/back in a few pumps. It's amazing. If it goes on sale its about 100 bucks. My sears floor jack is worthless compared to this. It is a Pittsburgh manufactured jack. then you can put the jacks in place. I put my jack-stands under the frame bolts in the front.

 

I was having a hard time trying to figure out where to jack it in the rear. I was using that control arm in front of the rear tire and it looked like it was starting to bend it out. I guess you are supposed to put it behind that thing... Anyways, the 2 ton floor jack I just bought was complete crap. It would lift the car up off the ground about an inch and sink back down. Couldn't even get it high enough to slip the jack stand under the car. I guess it was defective or had air in it or something, so they told me to just return it, but after that I lost faith in their $28 jacks.

 

DO NOT JACK THE CAR NEAR THE RADIUS ARMS WITH A WIDE PAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I spent hours straightening the radius arms of many cars that had bent arms from incorrect lifting.

Lift the rear of the car near the radius arm fulcrum so as NOT to interfere with the arm as it swings down when the body is lifted.
You can use a longer narrow piece of wood to spread the load along the body seam.

If the arms are damaged severely it can be expensive to repair.

bob gauff

 

My thoughts entirely!!!! What do folks do about this? The thread is very old - but no resolution I can see.

 

The approved lifting points are on the outside frame (rocker panels) marked by arrows. Bottom figure in post #4. The labeling is incorrect.

 

Yes, I get that - no problem. I have had to change the wheels several times because of flat tyres

The point is I want to jack up (trolley jack) the car at the rear and then put axle stands at the support points and remove the jack and .... the locations indicated are the same (or moreorless). the base of the jack and the base of the stands interfere with each other and the distance between the jack top and the axle stand top seems far too big. In the past, I have trusted to luck and just jammed them up close, but it seems a bit of a bodge.

What do other folks do?

Regards,

 

Hey! What did you end up doing? Recently bought an 04 sport wagon and I used a block of wood to distribute force on my floor jack at the diff after jacking the front end first to reduce further stress…seemed to work just fine but I did take it slow. Placed the stands on the jacking points after getting it off the ground. Not an ideal situation I guess but it seemed to work. If you came up with a better way I’d love to hear it as I’ve got to put it up again this weekend. Cheers!

 

HI Dell,
I am interested in this topic. Is there a problem with jacking under the front suspension lower control arm using a floor jack. I would be interested in your comments.
Regards,

David Bruce.

 

Did you read post #10? This is the best resolution I've seen!!! Start at 6:30. ABSOLUTELY INCREDIBLE!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2K9i_RTAV7E

Note the weight of these suckers! 22 pounds EACH.. Suggests how well made and sturdy they truly are...


https://www.etamfg.com/shop.html?sto...ach-p252276669