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We are doing research to install A/C in our 1960 MK2 with a transplanted 3.8L manual with OD. We have read searches on this and other forums.
What is still some what fuzzy is how the compressor is driven
It appears that some of the "kits" use an idler (attached to the left of the crank pulley on which the back side of the belt rides) and a single longer belt is used, driving the generator/alternator, compressor and water pump from the original single grove crank pulley. Yet I saw a photo of a crank pulley with two grooves suggesting a separate belt just for the compressor.
For those of you who have A/C how is your compressor driven? Photos would be great.
We still have to design a bracket for the new Sanden type compressor, somehow incorporating that with an modern GM internal regulated alternator. We currently still have a generator and will upgrade when A/C is installed.. We do not have PS.
We are looking at numerous options. Probably will not use a kit as we have done A/C work before and have all the equipment to make hoses, vacuum pump etc.
Leaning towards an under dash evaporator and installing 2 vents in the center console open space, and maybe two more on on each side underneath the dash.
Again just thinking out loud now, but first must figure out compressor mounting etc.
The usual way was an extra pulley was added to the crankshaft to go to the AC, and the idler was a tensioner. Do you have the W shaped double grooved belt? Those are unique to Jaguar and only ever came in 4 lengths, so that really limits your choices for using it to drive AC. The newer jaguars, roughly after 1968, use standard V belt pullies, so you could probably find a pulley from a XJ6 that will bolt to you existing crank pulley to run an AC compressor.
Jaguar used the good old clutched York thumpers back in the day but as your car is not standard, originality is not an issue for you. I would use a physically smaller Nippon Denso swash plate compressor that runs all the time and only pumps when the actuator adds an angle to the swash plate. Everybody from Mercedes to Porsche uses them today.
S Types etc run 2 groove pulleys & 2 V fan belts etc. standard.
Belt.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Apr 10, 2023 at 12:54 PM.
I would use a physically smaller Nippon Denso swash plate compressor that runs all the time and only pumps when the actuator adds an angle to the swash plate. Everybody from Mercedes to Porsche uses them today.
Denso clutchless swash compressors are good but not without issues. They must pump at 2 to 3% (minimum displacement) in order to lubricate the internals. Otherwise they can burn up. So even when the A/C is off the compressor is still pumping, even though its a small amount. They also have a problem with starting from minimum displacement and can take 60+ seconds to get to maximum displacement under hot ambients. They require an input from the ECU to operate.
The simple route would be to use a fixed displacement swash plate compressor like a Sanden 508 or 709.
A/C is something I'd like to add to my Mk2, but, apart from collecting some series XJ parts, it's still a long way down the list. I've read the descriptions of several who have done it; Google will take you to a mass of experiences. There are a couple of observations. First, don't use an idler pulley on the outside of a conventional V-belt. They aren't made for reverse curvature and will fail very quickly. Having changed the belt on my Mk2 by the side of the road at night, I can say that the spring loaded jockey pulley is a great advantage. In spite of the tight access and working by feel, I did the job in no time. The next point is the space available. The engine and radiator are not far apart. Keep that in mind when adding pulleys or anything else on the front of the engine. Electric fans and water pumps may help.
It's possible and very efficient to run everything off a single modern serpentine belt, but you may feel that looks out of place on an old car. Also, it means swapping a lot of pulleys.
Denso clutchless swash compressors are good but not without issues. They must pump at 2 to 3% (minimum displacement) in order to lubricate the internals. Otherwise they can burn up. So even when the A/C is off the compressor is still pumping, even though its a small amount. They also have a problem with starting from minimum displacement and can take 60+ seconds to get to maximum displacement under hot ambients. They require an input from the ECU to operate.
The simple route would be to use a fixed displacement swash plate compressor like a Sanden 508 or 709.
Thanks for the good advice. I certainly understand the lubrication. It is/was my job as a tribologist. Listen to Bob. It is his speciality. The actuators can be modified. My brother in law who has a degree in digital electronics has done a few to bypass the ECU requirement. Bob's resolution is much easier.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Apr 11, 2023 at 05:02 AM.
There are a couple of observations. First, don't use an idler pulley on the outside of a conventional V-belt. They aren't made for reverse curvature and will fail very quickly. Having changed the belt on my Mk2 by the side of the road at night.
For a standard V-belt this is true, but there are heavy duty V-belts that can be used with an idler pulley on the outside and reverse curvature. If they didn't, the V-belt for my tractors mowing deck would have failed a long time ago instead of lasting nearly 20 years. The draw back to a heavy duty V-belt are they aren't available at an auto parts store and they're expensive. They can be $100 per belt.
Let me see if I can find out Bob & I hope I understand him. I understand high end audio backwards but he tends to speak in a different language about many things digital outside the audio field.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Apr 11, 2023 at 10:09 AM.
Hi Glyn,
I would love to learn more about your brother in law's modification and ECU bypass.
Bob ~ I phoned a grumpy brother in law. Got the response that this was too much to discuss over the phone. He would rather draw me pretty pictures next time I visit.
But in essence:
Mounts a sniffer fan & temperature probe in the cabin.
Clones the HVAC portion of the ECU only with necessary feeds to operate compressor swash plate actuator etc.
Fits a two button operated LCD in cabin to set target temperature.
Blending/flap stepper motor operation would be car dependent.
Doesn't like doing this sort of work. Considers it a waste of time. Strictly for friends.
I guess he works on the principle that all cars would have at least an air fan speed controller. He is a Toyota fanatic. Mainly the sporty ones like the old twin cam Corolla 16V with variable intake tracts. Likes small high revving engines. Thinks I'm a disgrace with my 3.5l Quadcam V6 & ruining the planet. I always remind him I could have bought the V8 version but didn't. I'm getting on in years & performance is more than adequate for me. Still attend our company driver safety program annually. Still achieve great control on the wet skidpan.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Apr 13, 2023 at 08:17 AM.
Bob ~ I phoned a grumpy brother in law. Got the response that this was too much to discuss over the phone. He would rather draw me pretty pictures next time I visit.
But in essence:
Mounts a sniffer fan & temperature probe in the cabin.
Clones the HVAC portion of the ECU only with necessary feeds to operate compressor swash plate actuator etc.
Fits a two button operated LCD in cabin to set target temperature.
Blending/flap stepper motor operation would be car dependent.
Doesn't like doing this sort of work. Considers it a waste of time. Strictly for friends.
I guess he works on the principle that all cars would have at least an air fan speed controller. He is a Toyota fanatic. Mainly the sporty ones like the old twin cam Corolla 16V with variable intake tracts. Likes small high revving engines. Thinks I'm a disgrace with my 3.5l Quadcam V6 & ruining the planet. I always remind him I could have bought the V8 version but didn't. I'm getting on in years & performance is more than adequate for me. Still attend our company driver safety program annually. Still achieve great control on the wet skidpan.
Thanks Glyn,
It sounds like he simulated an automatic climate control head/system. Thanks for asking!
I guess he wouldn't like my wife's Grandfather's car either
In my quest to determine how to drive the compressor when we add AC to our MK2, I just saw an interesting way of driving it and an alternator.
A friend has a 1966 XKE 4.4 which he just had an AC system installed locally by a reputable British car shop.
They mounted the alternator above the compressor, so the compressor is sitting where the generator/alternator was. . The engine then had one v-belt that drove the fan/water pump and the compressor in the essentially normal configuration using the stock crank pulley. Since the compressor has two v-belt slots, they used the second outboard slot to drive the alternator sitting above it with a short v-belt. I am sure the mounts were all custom made and the setup was probably not cheap.
Is this even possible in a MK? Seems like it solves the issue of adding a second crank pulley or using just one belt to drive everything. Again our MK2 does not have power steering.
Comments. Anyone ever see this configuration on a MK2?