Daimler V8 ignition / distributer question
Any recommendations for an electronic ignition conversion for a Daimler 2.5 V8? Pertonix vs UltraSpark or Lumenition? This is a 1969 V250 driver, restored 20 years ago, and I intend to keep her on the road for a long time to come. At the same time I'd like to correct a related issue. My 1L cylinder spark plug runs to the rear of the distributor cap, not the front as in the manual. Could it be that the fellow who rebuilt the engine inserted the distributor 180 degrees off and ran the plug wires using the correct firing order? She's been running fine for years, but when I change to electronic ignition, I'd like to get her right and be able to use the timing mark and methods in the service manual.
RCTerry,
I don't have a recommendation for you, unfortunately. I actually like the dual point set up in my 1968 V8250 driver and it runs great with them. I may drive mine less than you, however...maybe 2,000 miles/year. That means I have to change points every 5 years or so, but not a big deal.

Yes...likely the dizzy was inserted differently than the book shows. This is not a problem, however, as long as you are still able to properly time it without the vacuum advance hitting something. You should use the timing mark and methods in the manual. The dizzy position has no effect on this as long as the rotor is pointing to #1 wire when that cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.
I don't have a recommendation for you, unfortunately. I actually like the dual point set up in my 1968 V8250 driver and it runs great with them. I may drive mine less than you, however...maybe 2,000 miles/year. That means I have to change points every 5 years or so, but not a big deal.

Yes...likely the dizzy was inserted differently than the book shows. This is not a problem, however, as long as you are still able to properly time it without the vacuum advance hitting something. You should use the timing mark and methods in the manual. The dizzy position has no effect on this as long as the rotor is pointing to #1 wire when that cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke.
Thanks, I figured that was the issue. I'll give the distributor a twist.
I drive her a bit after the heat of Florida summers is over. Probably 5,000 miles in a normal year but that can double or half. I just got her out of the garage for a trip to Pea Ridge Arkansas (mule jumping competition) and she was idling rough, stalling and cranky during my 50 mile run, so figured now might be the time to go electronic. There are a few other issues that need repair before a 2500 mile trip (she randomly blows her own horn, for one) so she's going to miss this trip but will be back on the road a day or so after my return. When she's cranky on a road trip, the wife gets crankier. Last year a faulty ignition switch caused unpredictable stalling until I traced the problem and Radio Shack provided a jumper cable. I've rebuilt carburetors in hotel rooms (the devil ethanol to blame) Points last me a year, maybe 2.
I drive her a bit after the heat of Florida summers is over. Probably 5,000 miles in a normal year but that can double or half. I just got her out of the garage for a trip to Pea Ridge Arkansas (mule jumping competition) and she was idling rough, stalling and cranky during my 50 mile run, so figured now might be the time to go electronic. There are a few other issues that need repair before a 2500 mile trip (she randomly blows her own horn, for one) so she's going to miss this trip but will be back on the road a day or so after my return. When she's cranky on a road trip, the wife gets crankier. Last year a faulty ignition switch caused unpredictable stalling until I traced the problem and Radio Shack provided a jumper cable. I've rebuilt carburetors in hotel rooms (the devil ethanol to blame) Points last me a year, maybe 2.
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