Fuel Pump - Function Test?
Is there a way to tell if the fuel pump is working?
should there be a noise when you turn the key?
atm my head and carbs are missing from the engine and as far as I know the tank is bone dry.
but i added a battery and tried the lights and radio… but not sure if the pump did anything.
tia
Peter
should there be a noise when you turn the key?
atm my head and carbs are missing from the engine and as far as I know the tank is bone dry.
but i added a battery and tried the lights and radio… but not sure if the pump did anything.
tia
Peter
Thanks for responding.
as mentioned, the pump will make an audible but faint ticking sound when pumping, and it will stop pumping the moment the floatbowls are full, and they are often full or very close to it on a warm start. additionally, it should be noted that the ticking noise will be masked while the engine is being cranked or is running. IOW, don't expect to hear the fuel pump ticking while cranking the engine or once it's been started.
I will need to clamp the fuel line or plug it - the sediment bowl is as far as it can go, the carb is on my computer desk.
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The SU pumps are known for "sticking" and a simple light whack with a hammer will usually free them. They have points in them like the distributor does and sometimes they stick. Make sure you have good connections too, on the spade and at the ground connection. When working they make an endearing ticking noise that is unmistakable.
You can dry bench test the pump by connecting a 12v supply across the terminals. If it ticks it works but this does not test the diaphragm which can dry up and perish so a wet test on a bench is also possible. Two simple hoses going from the in and out ports on the pump to a full jug and an empty and see what the flow rate is by sight. Just be careful if you use petrol as the fluid in case of a flash from connecting the 12v supply. Best to connect it up with long cables and a switch rather than just touching the cables across from a battery. Being an ex sparky of sorts you would know this anyway.
The SU is easy to strip down and repair. I have done this as most Jaguar owners have at the road side but the spares are expensive if you do want to repair. Better to replace with a new Hardy pump. Identical in shape, you get the same ticking noise but the reliability far exceeds the older SU pump from a state of the art electronic pump..
The SU is easy to strip down and repair. I have done this as most Jaguar owners have at the road side but the spares are expensive if you do want to repair. Better to replace with a new Hardy pump. Identical in shape, you get the same ticking noise but the reliability far exceeds the older SU pump from a state of the art electronic pump..
i would just run the fuel line that's coming out of the pump and destined for the carbs that aren't there, into a container so as to verify the pump is not only running but is able to pump gasoline (barring obstructions in the fuel line from the tank to the pump and from the pump to the container). for the pump will shut itself off immediately when it senses more than a few pounds of resistance.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; May 19, 2025 at 05:27 PM.
If you have a dry tank, I suggest you take the opportunity to drop the drainplug which incorporates the filter that surrounds the fuel pickup tube and clean it.
I have seen occasions where the filter is clogged and restricting fuel flow to the pump.
I endorse Cass's suggestion to replace the SU pump with a Hardy pump. SU pumps are ancient technology and parts are ridiculously expensive.
I have Facett pumps on my MK1 and MK2.
I have seen occasions where the filter is clogged and restricting fuel flow to the pump.
I endorse Cass's suggestion to replace the SU pump with a Hardy pump. SU pumps are ancient technology and parts are ridiculously expensive.
I have Facett pumps on my MK1 and MK2.
If you have a dry tank, I suggest you take the opportunity to drop the drainplug which incorporates the filter that surrounds the fuel pickup tube and clean it.
I have seen occasions where the filter is clogged and restricting fuel flow to the pump.
I endorse Cass's suggestion to replace the SU pump with a Hardy pump. SU pumps are ancient technology and parts are ridiculously expensive.
I have Facett pumps on my MK1 and MK2.
I have seen occasions where the filter is clogged and restricting fuel flow to the pump.
I endorse Cass's suggestion to replace the SU pump with a Hardy pump. SU pumps are ancient technology and parts are ridiculously expensive.
I have Facett pumps on my MK1 and MK2.
Have an electric pump on my Spitfire but the PO installed it when the mechanical lump failed so no idea of the make and model - its noisy though,
if diagnosis showed that the fuel pump was not working properly, i'd buy a new one from Burlen. IOW, i would not try fitting anything else. and it's not because i'm an originality nut.
they're about $250-300 when everything is all said and done.
they're about $250-300 when everything is all said and done.
Just installed it and appart from having to replace a round terminal with a spade terminal - "Tadah!"
Works!
Now I just have to replace the Fuel Filter/Tank Plug and Gasket (it was seized in and removal with an impact driver tore the mesh cage (the worst stinking gas ever came out - same color as stewed tea) then flush the system out, I am assuming some gas mixed with seafoam will suffice?
Works!
Now I just have to replace the Fuel Filter/Tank Plug and Gasket (it was seized in and removal with an impact driver tore the mesh cage (the worst stinking gas ever came out - same color as stewed tea) then flush the system out, I am assuming some gas mixed with seafoam will suffice?
$689.99 for a new one from moss, so chuffed i had one in a box - still sealed in the bags
Moss, BNG and the service manual all mention square pumps for my car.
the original (faulty) pump on the car (‘62 Mk II) was square.
you sure?
the original (faulty) pump on the car (‘62 Mk II) was square.
you sure?










