MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Jaguar MK2 2.4 Restoration Project

 
  #41  
Old 10-29-2018, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
If the axle has the same thread as mine, it's a 7/8th national fine thread (14 threads per inch)
I used an OTC brand hub puller, but it didn't fit the end of the axle very well so I made a tool to protect the threads.
See second link.
There was a some-what heated discussion at the JCNA about the use if after-market pullers with a George Camp, if that's the same member.
If it is, he's here too sometimes.

See these tow threads for some more info.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...emoval-147295/

EDIT:
Here is that thread from JCNA
https://www.jcna.com/re-churchil-hub-puller

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...r-axle-101214/
Thanks for the info, I will have a read.
 
  #42  
Old 10-29-2018, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Homersimpson View Post
Thanks for the offer, I've ordered one as it will be useful to have in future.
Ideally, if you had one of these in a split die in the right size thread...
It makes it very easy to start the die on damaged threads rather then just a chaser nut.


 
  #43  
Old 10-29-2018, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffR1 View Post
Ideally, if you had one of these in a split die in the right size thread...
It makes it very easy to start the die on damaged threads rather then just a chaser nut.


They are some old school dies
 
  #44  
Old 11-09-2018, 06:20 PM
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I've been carrying out some repairs to the replacement chassis leg section before it gets fitted.

I've also bought a pair of chassis rails to replace the straght section of chassis under the floor, these were very reasonable from GDI products on e-bay. They made them up to my dimensions and they are very well folded.



 
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  #45  
Old 11-10-2018, 07:01 AM
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Looks like some good progress, all you have to do is line it up and get it all square whilst holding it with your feet and welding at the same time --- simple !

Nice job.

Recommend Dinitrol RC900 rust convertor, it is epoxy based, not cheap, but works really well inside the chassis rails where you can't get in easily later, it cures hard unlike others on the market, gives peace of mind, then cavity injection later for ongoing protection as belt and braces cover.

If you use it somewhere you can see, you will see what I mean, good stuff IMO.
 
  #46  
Old 12-06-2018, 04:30 PM
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I've made the chassis rail top plates and am now making the curved sections between the front chassis rail assembly above and the straight section of the chassis under the floor.
I will then replace the straight sections as I have had some new one made by GDI products on e-bay (made to my exact size and really inexpensive). Top service.


 

Last edited by Homersimpson; 12-06-2018 at 04:33 PM.
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  #47  
Old 12-16-2018, 12:29 PM
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Its been a while since I updated, i've made two sections to fit between the front chassis rail I bought and the straight sections under the floor, these are made of 2mm steel and I have welded them in and temporarily tacked to the old chassis rails under the floor to give the car some strength back, I can now sit the car on stands under the front subframes and the doors fit correctly again.




 
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  #48  
Old 12-16-2018, 12:37 PM
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I've also been looking at the rear axle, I bought a die to re-thread the end of the halfshaft, however,what I really needed was a split die so I took a grinder to it and hey presto, one re-threaded axle.

I then took the puller tool to the other side and the hub popped straight off after a couple of taps, not bad as its not been off for at least 30 years. One thing I found on this side was that the thread on the end of the shaft is missing, almost like someone has done what I did on the other side and just filed off the damaged thread. I'm not sure what to do with this, I could really do with spreading it like I did the other side so i can re-thread it!




 

Last edited by Homersimpson; 12-16-2018 at 12:47 PM.
  #49  
Old 12-16-2018, 12:41 PM
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The rails are looking good. Amazing project.
 
  #50  
Old 12-16-2018, 12:42 PM
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Finally I've been removing the drivers side sill and inner sill as these were the worst on the car and I want to put some strength back in before I remove the chassis rail under the floor.

The outer sill had been replaced before and was pop rivetted along the top edge and flapping in the breeze at the bottom so two minutes with a drill and that was gone but the inner sill has been a bit more a a hassle.
 

Last edited by Homersimpson; 12-16-2018 at 12:52 PM.
  #51  
Old 12-16-2018, 01:07 PM
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I'm having some trouble posting photos, some are coming up and others aren't will try and post the rest of the pictures later.

On another note I have thought that my aim for this project will be to see how inexpensively you can restore a MK2 Jag. Today these cars are getting more and more expensive and it seems that they are starting to get out of reach of the ordinary person. I'm going to see how much it can be done for if you do it all yourself, I won't cut corners on it and all safety critical components will be correct but as mentioned above I will look for a good second hand interior, chrome etc to produce a nice presentable MK2.

I've started keep a spread sheet of costs and at the moment it looks like the attached:
 
Attached Files
File Type: xlsx
Costs.xlsx (11.0 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by Homersimpson; 12-16-2018 at 01:28 PM.
  #52  
Old 12-16-2018, 03:04 PM
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Looking good homer, I have a spreadsheet for mine, at the moment it stands in at a little under 20K, but that was with a complete new interior 3.5K, re-chroming 1.2K, 3.5K spent on the engine machining and the cost of the car but doing everything myself. So it will be interesting to see where you end up.

I must try and come and see you at some point, it would be good to hook up and see what you are doing.

Jon
 
  #53  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:00 PM
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I thought it was about time I update this thread with some pictures of progress (yes I haven't put it in the too hard pile - yet!).

First I braced the doors and removed the drivers side inner and outer sill (I didn't so much remove the outer sill as give it a mean look and it fell off!).




 
  #54  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:09 PM
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Then came the inner sill and I had to make a new central support bracket with a hole in it for the wiring loom.



Next the rear seat pan came in for some attention:




 
  #55  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:17 PM
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Next the rear lip of the rear floorpan needed some attention.



Then with this all repaired (don't seem to have taken a picture) and the outer sill on I was able to move the stand from the chassis member to the sill and I then put a wooden beam across the rear of the car with a scissor jack under it to stop the rear of the car sagging, took a deep breath and removed the main chassis rail middle section which looked like this:


If i was in any doubt whether I needed to remove the chassis rail the amount of rust inside soon put my mind to rest that I am doing the right thing!


​​​​​​​
 
  #56  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:25 PM
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Next I got my new folded chassis rail section, modified the end so that it flared into the spring hanger box (again seem to be missing a picture). The spring hanger box looked like this:



The top lead of the spring is sitting up because the other end has rotted off, yes that right is rotted off not snapped!

Next I welded some steel across the spring hanger boxes with plates drilled to take the mounting bolts so that the new ones go back in the same position that the old ones came out from.

I then got the spring hanger box sections and welded them together with my trusty spotwelder (after checking everything for fit).





Then I repaired the chassis section that goes around the back of the inner arch and down on the spring hanger box.





 
  #57  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:30 PM
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The spring hanger box was welded in to the floor, chassis rail etc.



Next I turned my attention to the front inner wing and I have so far repaired the lower edge at the rear and have cut out the front ready to fabricate a panel. Thats where i'm upto but have run out of MIG wire so had to pick some up today.







 

Last edited by Homersimpson; 02-24-2019 at 02:47 PM.
  #58  
Old 02-23-2019, 03:56 PM
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I also found some pictures of the repairs to the front floors, I need to take some of the finished article.




I also found some more of the bars for the rear spring hanger box positions.



And also the old and new spring hanger boxes next to each other.



I'm nearly at the point where this side of the car is strong enough to go on the rotisserie, just need to repeat on the other side, get it up, spin it over, do all the grinding i've not done (i've left it where I didn't need to do it as its much easier to do it when the car is upside down).

Then I can scrape the underseal and junk off the car and look at getting it sand blasted.
 
  #59  
Old 02-23-2019, 04:06 PM
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Man, that is quite project !
Looking at the photos, it's unbelievable how rusted out things can become and still stay together _ most would have scrapped the car for parts.
 
  #60  
Old 02-23-2019, 04:14 PM
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It has amazed me how strong the car is even with this serious corrosion, nothing seems to have moved (fingers crossed), i've kept the doors on so I can keep checking and they are fine.

Interestingly Practical Classic Magazine restored a 340 and somehow managed to bend it to the point that the front doors didn't fit and the front screen pillars were noticeably bent. They managed to straighten it in the end but i'm keen to avoid this :-)
 

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