Mk 1: Solex removed, SU installed, linkage does not work
Thanks Rob, I found that one, I was interested in the separate manifolds for the HD6 (C12312 (front) and C12313 (rear)), the E type had 3 manifolds, but don't know what Jag ever had 2 separate manifolds, unless they were specials for the Stage tuning ?
Hey guys get real. Any 3.4/3.8 inlet manifold for HD6 carbies will work. Stop all the nonsense about part numbers etc. I have done this modification to a number of 2.4 MK 1 &2s and I still have a MK1 and MK2 2.4 modified to this configuration. Forget about the exhaust pipe and straight port head. The real modifier is the increased carbie feed from the dreaded 1 1/4 inch solexes to the 1 3/4 SUs. It increases the carby intake area by a bit over 90% and makes an astounding difference. (Note PI R squared).
The manifold was not the specific problem Bill, it's a combination of the linkage and the manifold that is causing the OP a problem.
What is the solution to the linkage issue ? If any manifold will work, what linkage arrangement will not cause the fouling problem ?
What is the solution to the linkage issue ? If any manifold will work, what linkage arrangement will not cause the fouling problem ?
The correct part number for the "bell crank lever assembly" is C15499. It looks to be about 90 degrees.
It should be mounted so that the accelerator push rod connects to the arm with the hole in it hanging vertically below the pivot point. This should leave the arm with the ball joint sitting horizontally and to the rear of the pivot point. When the accelerator is depressed this pushes the lower arm forward and the ball joint arm should should go down.
The control arm on the throttle shaft of the SU carbies should be mounted on the out board side of the carbies.
The downward movement of the end of the bell crank then pulls the carbie to open.
I can't help you with the correct length of the"steady bar" I have always made new bars out of 4mm steel bar.
It should be mounted so that the accelerator push rod connects to the arm with the hole in it hanging vertically below the pivot point. This should leave the arm with the ball joint sitting horizontally and to the rear of the pivot point. When the accelerator is depressed this pushes the lower arm forward and the ball joint arm should should go down.
The control arm on the throttle shaft of the SU carbies should be mounted on the out board side of the carbies.
The downward movement of the end of the bell crank then pulls the carbie to open.
I can't help you with the correct length of the"steady bar" I have always made new bars out of 4mm steel bar.
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