That is entertaining reading, thanks for posting.

 

Pulling up an old post. I'm starting to collect the battery, battery cables and associated parts for my Mk2 project. Three questions:
What holds the battery lid on the battery? Is the battery lid useless without the correct and original Lucas style battery? Does it snap onto the special battery?
Will the solenoid work with a new, high-torque starter? The SNG description for the solenoid says "for models with inertia starters". I assume an inertia starter is the type that was originally on the car and throws the pinion onto the ring gear when it starts to spin?
Final question. What is the length of the cable from the solenoid to the starter (3.8 auto but converting to 5 speed manual, if it matters). The car came with several extra solenoids and different length cables attached to each. I have a longer one that is in very nice shape and a shorter one that is junk.
Thanks
Craig

 

I'll answer a few of your questions,

This is the original clip on battery lid with side clips ~ a bit battered (made of some sort of fibre reinforced bakelite). Coventry Foundation can tell you of a battery they say it fits that is available. The biggest problem with some modern batteries is finding one that will fit the tray due to the Master Cylinder cut out.. The modern battery lid is usually attached to modern SLA batteries with Velcro. To my knowledge the under bonnet solenoid works perfectly with high torque starters (Many have done it ~ maybe one has to adopt a sensible duty cycle so as not to overheat the solenoid). Battery cables should have helmet style post connectors with centre screw. You have to drill your battery posts to take the self tapping screw. Barretts cables are the correct length. What I have on my car.






No longer available (many years)







New cover



New tray

 

I have a high torque starter on my 1968 S Type and have had no problems with the bulkhead solenoid which works perfectly.

 

Those lovely brass bolts always seem to have disappeared in most of the MK1 and MK2 cars I have had.
The thread is a SAE national fine (NF) 1/4 inch and 28 TPI (threads per inch).
Using thread cutting dies it is pretty easy to recreate these brass bolts with 1/4 brass rod.
However if you are not totally dedicated to originality I suggest going to an aviation source and asking for AN4-24A bolts. These are basically about 2 1/2 inches long and suit the battery hold strap.
Bill Mac
MK1
MK2
S3XJ6
X300
15 previous Jags. MK5 to X308

 

The brass bolts are still available.

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...ery%20strap%60

 

the new high torque gear reduction starter comes with two different ways to either defeat the separate solenoid or to use it with the new starter.
All you need os a Bypass wire connector sold by the new starter supplier;

here's the info:
https://www.classiccarperformance.com/collections/britishstarters-com/products/jaguar-420

*** contact them to get the correct starter for your engine if SNG does not supply the bypass connector wire.

 

Wiring alternatives with above unit. This specific unit's current draw will place no stress on the original solenoid should you choose to maintain standard wiring.

 

Note this unit is for a 420. One has to use a unit of the correct Pinion to Ring-gear ratio of teeth for your specific engine.

 

the thackery spring washers prevent the brass bolts from backing out after they are tightened, they are tension washers. Not a lock washer but a tension-maintaining spring. Something like that.

you can pull used thackery washers from salvage XJ cars, same size as used in MK-2 and S type and 420 and MK-X and 420-G and maybe E types.

 

Readily available. They are even used on the rear NDV (vent) mechanism of the Jaguar compact saloons. MkX/420G. XK150 & many other British & US cars & motorcycles. Frequently used on mounting carbs e.g. Weber sidedraughts.

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...rnedDown=false

 

Great input, guys. Thank you!
I had only seen pictures of the new cover on SNG's page so I did not realize that the originals had clips. So velcro if I use a new style battery.
One more question. How does the battery tray drain tube route? I had two mystery clips holding the remnants of an approximately 3/8 inch tube down around the area where the transmission tunnel opens into the engine bay on the right side of the car. I'm now thinking that was for the battery tray drain tube. Does this sound right? Location seems right.

 

This is the best pic I have of an original but you can see the black rubber pipe running down toward the tunnel. Early in S Type production (Jan 1965) this pipe was lengthened to 27" so that it did not drip acidic water onto the brake piping. Less of an issue with today's batteries. Starts just in from the left of the tray viewing as we are now. The same applies to a Mk2 including date of change.

 

Thanks, Glyn. Very helpful. I think this solves the mystery of the clamps and hose remnants on my car.