Hi Jaguar people
1968 Mk2 240

I’ve noticed that some of the rubber mounts look a little tired and worse for wear/age. How easy is it to change the front subframe mounts and engine mounts? Trawled Ytube and the web and can only find reference to them when either the engine has been out for major work or front suspension has been replaced.
Thanks in anticipation
Ron

 

I found the mounts very easy to change if you have the right equipment. You will need a decent jack or lift to raise and lower the car and some strong axle stands.

The engine mounts are very easy. Simply undo the bolts on the engine mounts, one at the top and two at the bottom. Not that easy to get to but with a little patience do able. Then place a block of wood under the sump and jack the engine up a couple of inches so the mounts can slide out of the holes. Be careful not to try and force the engine too high as the bottom of the fan can come into contact with the radiator. The engine mounts are then removed and new ones installed. When installing the mounts before you tighten them up make sure the engine is level or you might find the air filter housing can touch the underside of the bonnet if not level.

I don't have the front stabilizers on my 1967 S Type so someone else will have to tell you how to change these if you have them fitted. The rear stabilizer mount is difficult to get to due to its position down the back of the engine. The bonnet has to be removed and you end up lying across the wing so add some protection for your paint work. Undo the top bolt where it is in the bracket on the bulkhead and remove this with the washer. There are then two bolts holding the mount to the bracket and with a little fiddling the rubber bush and sleeve can be prised out and replaced. The bottom where it is attached to the bell housing does not have to be touched. The difficulty here is space to get your hand in the gap and the fact you are leaning across the wing. The blue book tells you how to tighten the mount correctly.

The front cross member mounts are fairly easy. Jack the body of the car up and set it on axle stands. Remove the front wheels to gain access to the mounts via the wheel wells. Place a jack under the cross member and undo the bolts holding the four mounts in place. There are two holding the mount to the subframe and one bolt at the top going through the chassis rail. Lower the cross member a couple of inches so the mounts can be removed and reverse everything to reinstall the new ones. Due to the distances you are moving the engine and cross member nothing needs removing to change the mounts. The mounts are a tight fit over the chassis rail so might need a tap or two to get them on which might damage your paint work. if they are tight spreading the wings on the mount a fraction so they are able to slide on will help and when the bolt is tightened the wings should cinch back up.


Two plates that the engine mounts sit on showing the bolts that hold the mount to these plates. Lower left is the single bolt that holds the top of the subframe mount to the chassis rail. There are then two bolts that hold the mount to the subframe.



Rear stabilizer mount with the top bolt and washer removed. Two bolts shown hold the bush in place. Very fiddly to remove due to the space you have to work in.



Old mount on the left where the metal sleeve had parted from the rubber. New mount on the right.



The mounts at the front of the subframe. Two bolts hold it to the chassis rail and one in the centre holding it to the subframe.

 

Quality is everything in rubber parts and there's a lot of rubbish around. Buy the best from the likes of SNG Barratt and Rob Beare. And where they offer a choice of standard or uprated/upgrade, buy the upgrade.

 

Having had some mounts break up on me and others I am going to have to replace soon as they are cracked I personally would go for polly bushes. Slightly harder, better and longer wearing over modern rubber bushes but unfortunately more expensive

 

I'd agree with most of that. One thing to watch is that the most flexible poly from some suppliers may be less stiff than original rubber. I've read the same of rubber where 'standard' replacement are less stiff than original, while upgrade is about the same as original. Life is complicated....

 

I am a bit wary of poly bushes. I did use them on my S3XJ6 steering rack mounts (static compression) and ten years later are still ok.
However, I have seen poly bushes fail in flexing situations as in front wishbone pivots.
I think that any compression mount such as the rear V mounts in the front suspension poly might be ok but the front suspension mounts with the system in shear mode might be a problem.
Overall, I tend to stay with the original rubber systems but that may have to be modified as parts become more difficult to access.