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I'm about to refit my front grill on my Mk2.
I notice previously there was some sealant applied around the grill periphery to sandwich between grill and body.
Can someone suggest what type of sealant is best to use,if any.
Likewise on mine, No sealant just 6 tiny 3/8or possibly 5/16 nuts hold it in place. I think it was Jose who came up with a good idea the other day about fitting wing or thumb nuts in place of the original nuts as getting your arm up the service hatch is hard enough but when you are trying to find the head of the nut with a spanner with no line of sight it is really hard. Jose's idea with the wing nuts means at least you can feel the head with your fingers and turn it on or off. Just make sure you grease them up first to stop corrosion. Fitting the grill before putting the engine and radiator in is the easiest way to do it.
Mine has been on and off over the years and I've never used a sealant and don't believe there was any originally. It's painful work and sealant is only going to make it worse. I wonder if someone added it to be compensate for poor fit or broken fittings.
The grilles are mounted without any sealant, but I want to add a black rubber beading to mine.
A beading similar to the one used on bumper overriders protects the paint and eliminates any "sympathetic sound or vibration" if any,
(whatever it's called), but it sure makes the grille look more "finished" over the body.
The correct beading is sold in UK for very little cost, like $1.50 per meter but shipping it to USA adds a ridiculous $55.00 to the price.
I need 6 feet of bead to go around the grille of my S type. Same for MK-1 and 2. The 420 would need about 8 or 9 feet.
No adhesive needed either but just a few SuperGlue drops at certain strategic points to keep it in place while mounting it.
Wing nuts with the original Star friction washers make life easier. Don't overtighten. The British never overtightened anything unless it was a critical part that required a given torque.
The grilles are mounted without any sealant, but I want to add a black rubber beading to mine.
A beading similar to the one used on bumper overriders protects the paint and eliminates any "sympathetic sound or vibration" if any,
(whatever it's called), but it sure makes the grille look more "finished" over the body.
The correct beading is sold in UK for very little cost, like $1.50 per meter but shipping it to USA adds a ridiculous $55.00 to the price.
I need 6 feet of bead to go around the grille of my S type. Same for MK-1 and 2. The 420 would need about 8 or 9 feet.
No adhesive needed either but just a few SuperGlue drops at certain strategic points to keep it in place while mounting it.
Wing nuts with the original Star friction washers make life easier. Don't overtighten. The British never overtightened anything unless it was a critical part that required a given torque.
Thanks for replies. I was thinking of running a bead of sealant around,but have now gone of the idea.
I'm going to fit the 5 mounting points with new wing nuts,flat and shake proof washers.
I like the idea of the rubber beading, as used on rear bumper. I will try and source some.
I live in UK,so perhaps from. SNG or Holdens.
By the way,I found reaching the 5 fastning points fairly easy through the bottom access hole,but I've got fairly slim ,long arm.
Hi,
the correctExtrusion of black rubber bead is sold on eBay by a UK seller.
Search for "bumper overrider bead".
SNG US store does not have a continuous length of 6 feet which is what we want for the grille.
By the way, there are 6 mounting points:
one at the very bottom center,
two on each side ascending for a total of 4,
last one at the very top center behind the Jaguar 3.4 or 3.8 badge.
You need 5 wing nuts, 5 "star" washers
(same kind of "teethed" washers used all over these cars).
the last one is not a Stud, but a 8 mm bolt with a strange "cup" washer or "spacer" with "serrated teeth" and a flat washer.
I have a Daimler "fluted" MK-2 grille which has identical mounting points as the grille in my S type.
to upload images, select REPLY TO THREAD, then scroll down to where it says MANAGE ATTACHMENTS. Click there and a new window opens with options to select the file you want to upload. Select the file then click on UPLOAD.
[img alt="There she is Jose.
"]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20250414_160649_08f5f54bd566849816371718fcea8df1d2 7633fc.jpg[/img] There she is Jose.
Jose. I wish I could take a photo, but the DD6 has been stuck in a body shop and is now (I hope) having its headlining and various fittings attached. However, the piece is item 15 in the link to SNG above. It would have been nice to replace it as it's suffered a bit from heat and sunlight, but slipped into unobtainium (at least at SNG). It's nice because it's a fine bead so it finishes the edge without being too noticeable.
Peter,
interesting, never seen it before. Thanks for link.
If you look at the grille of a 1971 Volvo 1800-E, it also has the finishing bead or edging. That 's where I got the idea for my S type grille.
Thanks kind comments regards my car.
Still not sure what rubber beading to put round edge of grill,as I don't want it to look obtrusive.
Might,at least for now just put grill back on as it is.
For anyones interest the 5,or 6 fixing grill studs are
10 UNF-24TPI.
This Butyl Rubber stripping should work well if one must put something on there.
It will squeeze out where necessary, and stay in place where there may be small gaps, but some will always be there depending on how much one tightens the nuts.
It never hardens.
I can find it at my local hardware store, and it comes in black, grey, brown etc.
What's in the photo is quite thick, but it can be easily worked down into something smaller.
Refitting front grill
