65 3.8S
Does anyone have the ohms values for the water temp gauge?

I've got a gauge that reads high after rising quickly, even though the temp is just fine.

As an example, here's what I have for my Jeeps:

 

Are you looking at the actual gauge resistance, or the temperature sender resistance.

The gauge should be the same at all readings, it is the sensor that changes value.

I would check the voltage stabilizer output voltage, and look at the sender, the gauges are usually fairly reliable.

 

II replaced the sender. Same result.

Where is the voltage stabilizer?

 

If you drop down the central instrument panel, on my R.H drive car the voltage stabiliser is at the front r.h side, near to the water temp gauge itself.
If you have a reasonable voltmeter, I think the "stabilised voltage" should be 10 volts. If the stabiliser was faulty, it should affect the oil and petrol gauges as well.
Hope this helps.

 

Oil gauge reads high. Fuel gauge takes a while to drop off full if that means anything.

Does anyone have a schematic of the fuel lines with the dual tanks?

 

Sounds like the voltage stabilizer is giving a high output, check that first with a voltmeter to see what you have.

 

It's bad. 12.4 volts on all terminals.

Started a search for one and found this in the link below. Kinda cool idea.

Ordered one.

CoolCat Express Corp.: Instrument Voltage Regulator (Neg Ground)

 

There are quite a few guys on here that have used and recommend those, give that a go, hopefully it should sort out those issues.

I built my own solid state stabilizer and got it inside the old case so that it looks the same, more just for fun really, and the CoolCat shipping costs to the UK are high as with anything from the US unfortunately.

 

We'll see how it goes. I'm excited to have made progress on this.

Any sources for door weatherstripping, body to door?

 

I think the consensus of opinion is the seals from CMC are the best fit, but I am sure others will give their views, I have not fitted new ones yet so don't have personal experience.

 

I've only looked at SNG Barratt but they seem to have none.

Im open to some links/options.

 

Take a look at this thread, Primaz has put a link there, he is happy with the seals.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...ubbers-186983/

Also more discussion here
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...ubbers-164960/


You could PM any of these guy, they will be more than happy to advise more if you have any questions.

 

I ordered the weatherstripping from Welsh Enterprises in Ohio. Should be here today.

got Coolcat's IVR installed yesterday. Preliminary testing in the garage looks positive.

My heater valve looks nothing like the C16559 pictured in the online catalogs. Mine is vacuum actuated and it's stuck open.

The new speedo driven gear and housing should be here today.

That's my update for now.

 

Here's what my heater valve looks like.

 

PM Jose, he's an S Type man, and XJ6, it looks like it's out of another Jag, but I don't recognize it.

 

Jon,
I already replied to him. The original heater valves for the S type are no longer available.

What he needs is a Normally CLOSED, opens with Vacuum, Heater valve with 5/8" ports and a 1/8" to 1/4" vacuum port.

you can get those in autoparts stores locally.

What he may have is a Normally OPEN, heater valve, or a bad heater valve. Easy to replace.

the valve in his picture looks like one from a GM car, (picture below), but it doesn't matter as long as it is NORMALLY CLOSED / OPENS WITH VACUUM.

 

Thanks alot.

I'll head to the parts store.

 

Sorry Jose, I didn't see that post, I knew you would be of assistance.

 

I'll update this thread when I get my new heater control valve. A bit different than the proposed unit, but simple.