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Love F-type Jaguars, own a RWD 2015 R V8 with full options including ceramic breaks.
However what I love more is making power. Been building engines since I was a kid and have built plenty of LS platform motors making north of 1500HP.
So I have decided to challenge myself and attempt to build a 950-1000 HP F-type (AJ133) engine. Yes one may think I need my head read, and may not be possible, but nothing ventured nothing gained.
Obviously using forged internals apart from the crank at this stage and the new 2300 Harrop, which needs a little tickle. I shall post some pictures of the build soon.
BTW current best ET is 11.2sec at 130 miles....need ET streets to get into the tens.
Goodonya for having a go, will be following although I only have a measly V6.
A few other AJ133 SC owners around here (not just F-Type but XF, XJ, XK etc) have been or are looking at how to bigly boost the power and torque and one thing they all seem to agree on is the need for water/meth and/or much beefier SC intercooling to drastically lower IATs and prevent the dreaded heat soak.
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I would spend some time reading what Therock88 has done. He is in the tens with his F-Type in the 1/4 mile and has done many mods with nice write ups.
Take a look; Therock88 DIY Threads
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Hello,
I agree. There is a limit to how much power one can put under any specific hood/bonnet before one encounters certain Laws of Physics that one can't be changed. But wouldn't it be a BORING life if no one ever tested that limit?!!
One of the main challenges that I will need to address is exactly what you mentioned the IAT temps.
I haven’t been able to understand the engineering behind why JLR decided to use water from the engine cooling system to cool the supercharger. The only thing that comes to mind is keeping consisting temperatures which aids in tuning etc, to achieve certain emission levels!
I still shake my head that they have hot water running through the bottom of the throttle body to warm it up. Haven’t seen that since the early 5.7 LS engines back in 1998. Removing that hose that runs underneath the charger to the throttle body is a must IMO.
Definitely water/methanol injection is a great approach to lowering IAT. I have installed a Direct Injection kit to my car, works amazing drops the IAT/ETG at full throttle. The ability to cool the charge air etc has allowed me to increase my base timing another 4 degrees. (total 29). Another must is reducing back pressure and the OEM catalytic converters are a choke point. 200 cell if not 100 cell lol and a 2.5 inch system helps also with IAT as back pressure is reduced. Ohh and some thermal insulation under the charger wouldn’t hurt either. My current set up is making approx. 720HP at the crank.
My goal is to use a 6ltr reservoir and keep the supercharger cooling system separate from the engine and perhaps install an interchiller as well…I have used these in the past and they are insane. The IAT’s at idle are 4C and 20c after a full throttle run at the drag strip.
Picture of the custom piston I had made. Used an LS 0.927 pin 0.200 wall. So plenty of strength in that area for boost. Also moved the pin down 0.055 to allow for a stronger crown and gas lateral porting etc. Overall the actual forged 2618 piston come in 5gms lighter than the OEM cast.
Love F-type Jaguars, own a RWD 2015 R V8 with full options including ceramic breaks.
However what I love more is making power. Been building engines since I was a kid and have built plenty of LS platform motors making north of 1500HP.
So I have decided to challenge myself and attempt to build a 950-1000 HP F-type (AJ133) engine. Yes one may think I need my head read, and may not be possible, but nothing ventured nothing gained.
Obviously using forged internals apart from the crank at this stage and the new 2300 Harrop, which needs a little tickle. I shall post some pictures of the build soon.
BTW current best ET is 11.2sec at 130 miles....need ET streets to get into the tens.
For more information, you can visit this link: https://triodveri.ua/rur)
I have decided at this stage, to use the original crank for this build. The OEM crank is a nodular cast crank, with undercut fillet journals and 8 counterweights with very generous rod and main journal sizes, 2.2 and 2.75 consecutive. Given this and the small stroke/overlap between the journals I would say I am comfortable it should hold up to the task of supporting 1000HP. I have finished deburring the crank and ready for shot peening and also iso-tropic polishing which also adds a little more insurance.
The only alternative is to have a custom billet crank made, approx. $5000 US, which I may still consider!
I have decided at this stage, to use the original crank for this build. The OEM crank is a nodular cast crank, with undercut fillet journals and 8 counterweights with very generous rod and main journal sizes, 2.2 and 2.75 consecutive. Given this and the small stroke/overlap between the journals I would say I am comfortable it should hold up to the task of supporting 1000HP. I have finished deburring the crank and ready for shot peening and also iso-tropic polishing which also adds a little more insurance.
The only alternative is to have a custom billet crank made, approx. $5000 US, which I may still consider!
I would run the stocker too. They're as you know sitting in a bed plate like the LS and much more supported because of this. I run stock crank in the I my heavily modded trucks. Nissan 4 litre V6 I adapted a 4.6 Ken Bell twin screw 12 years ago to it from a 6.0 litre LS kit designed for a Corvette. little over 500 at the crank which is double the original hp. Custom pauhter bullet rods, CP custom forged pistons. 50k mikes on it now and runs great. limited on fuel system unless I go past the 255lp pump and lines. I went from 35# injectors to 100# and even this run full tilt duty cycle at 7k limited rpm.
It's only money right
Thanks for your input much appreciated. It also come down to the tune as well, a bad tune can hurt any forged/billet part as well.I billet crank just adds that extra insurance really, However my money is better spent elsewhere.
Like the heads, they are a huge let down, and in my honest opinion installing a 2300 Harrop onto a std engine really is a waste of time. The heads just don't flow, the intake flows only 218CFM and the exhaust 174CFM. No matter how much your force in, you will never evacuate the chamber with 174CFM on the exhaust and just have high boost levels which cause other issues. Currently in the process of installing oversize Ferrea customs valves. Hoping for an increase of 40 cfm across the board. Hell ford coyote heads flow approx. 300cfm and 240 cfm and they are of very similar design. Doesn't help the AJ133 head has a lump of aluminium in the exhaust port toward the exit for emission purposes. So lots of porting and also welding the exit port so its more of a D shape should help.
Ill post some flow numbers once completed.
PS great job making that power from your engine and being reliable as well, keep up the good work.
Pushing the AJ133 to 950-1000HP is definitely ambitious, but with your engine-building experience, I’m sure you’ll make it happen. Looking forward to seeing the build progress and those 10s runs! 🚀🔥
Yes its ambitious you are right, but a challenge at the same time. Honestly it’s in the heads and potentially the exhaust manifolds, as the 2300 Harrop is definitely up to the task. It’s disappointing the factory heads don’t flow much. Currently making 720HP with factory charger so fingers crossed another 250 HP is achievable…if not ill install an LS 427 LOL
Thanks for reaching out
BTW just finished port matching the throttle body to the snout as the Harrop opening for some reason was smaller that the OEM throttle body by 1.5mm.
Quick update, installed the smallest Harrop top pulley 2.5inch. Special order as they don't generally supply it when you purchase the charger from them.
At this stage i have decided to try the std throttle body and see if that can supply enough CFM to feed the 2300 Harrop. The std is 82mm, i would have ideally preferred a 90mm. Ported the throttle body by opening up the inlet to 90mm and tapering it back to where the blade sits at rest, without enlarger the area around the blade for obvious reason. The back again tapers away to match the opening of the snout. This should also act as a venturi which can aid in accelerating the air / cfm through the throttle body. I know these a small gains but numerous small gains can add up quickly and help reach my target.
Quick update on the valves. I have decided to get Ferrea to make custom oversize valve. 37mm intake and 30.8mm exhaust. This will effectively mean the throat area to valve ratio increases , which in turn allows more porting of the bowl and thus more cfm gains. its not the valve that increases cfm as such but the ability to open the throat and keep the ratio to 88/90. Which currently the OEM is almost at that ratio and doesn't allow much room to port the throat. Price for 32 custom valves wasn't to bad IMO, come in at $1750 US. Ill post some pics once in my little hot hands.
Block is being machined, with darton dry liners and the open part of the deck will be totally closed with a deck plate 13mm. This will brace the bores and eliminate any movement and out of round when the extra boost.
F-Type R engine build
