Hey guys, I'm going on 88k and figured its time for a coolant change. I've read the procedure for the earlier models and see that its different for the v8's and later models. Not sure if anybody has instructions for this. I want to change out the coolant and bleed the system. Can't seem to find instructions anywhere.

 

i'd download JTIS, just looked at it and all the info you need is there.

Or download this .pdf file i made using JTIS with the info you require

http://www.mediafire.com/?fon55k15l3i2dsk

 

Would be a great time to replace the coolant tank, it's roughly $125 shipped (perhaps cheaper from the forum sponsor Nalley) since there's very high odds it's leak soon at this mileage...

 

It seems that just looking at the tank for leaks makes it leak ...

Seriously though, it's really easy to crack a nipple so be prepared.

I flushed mine with the repeated dilution method using distilled water as getting to any drains on the block looks impossible.

 

Thanks for quick response guys! After this, I need to track down this damned vibration....

 

It's either going to be bald on the inside-only tires or high odds it's bent/dented wheels...

If bald tires, your SOL, will need new front tires and to get an alignment to Jag's new updated non-inner tire chewing specs...

If your tires are fine, google wheels straighteners in your area; shops often tell you if your wheels are bent for free...

 

might be something as simple as wheels need balancing

 

I have an 06 4.2 NA with 113,000 miles. At approximately 100,000 miles,
I changed the antifreeze by draining the radiator, running a gallon of
distilled water thru the radiator with the drain open, then refilling with
Jag spec antifreeze; you'll find the correct spec number in your owners
manual. I STRONGLY recommend you replace the DCCV at the same
time; it's available for $150 thru www.jaguarclimatecontrol.com

In my opinion, it's not if, but when, that miserable valve will fail.
Last week, on a trip from Washington to Georgia, it of course failed
and drove the heat to full hot. Because I was travelling, I didn't
have my tools with me, nor the time, to change it. A dealer in
South Carolina changed it for me (more on that later) for a tad under
$800 dollars, then announced that the failed valve had fried the climate
control module...which they will do...and that would be $1,400 plus
labor! Keep those figures in mind; doesn't $150 seem a bit better
than over 2 grand? I've been kicking myself ever since for not changing
the DCCV when I changed the antifreeze.

I ordered a replacement CCM from the above mentioned web site.
I'll post the results when the CCM arrives. In between time, the
car stays nice and toasty.

Cliff

 

Good points, Cliff. Every DCCV bears watching from the time it is installed brand-new. I perform the white paper napkin wipe on ours every single weekend. When (not if) it begins to show even the slightest traces of coolant, it's gone. I don't mind replacing the DCCV, but I don't want to lose my CCM as well. I wish the replacement DCCVs had been upgraded and rigorized to the point where the problem is finally solved. But that does not appear to have been the case....

 

Cliff, you can get the DCCV much cheaper than that, remember that the Ford valve is identical.
I changed mine at Thanksgiving, it was a couple of hours work, I reckon I could slice a good chunk off that if I did it again.
Are you getting a new module from JCC? or is it a recon?
Let us know how it goes.

 

Norri,

I ordered the module from Jeff at JCC under the core exchange
program; when it arrives on wednesday, I R and R and ship
the original back. I'll keep the forum advised.

Cliff

 

You guys have a part number for the Ford DCCV that's compatible?