So I finally pulled the trigger on an 05 STR and it was delivered last night. It's displaying boot open warning and none of the rear lights work. I'm gonna mess with it today but figured I'd pop on here and see if any of you guys knew a good place to start. Thanks for any help.

 

Check wiring for voltages etc - after checking it's not damaged where it flexes as boot opens/closes.

Grab workshop manuals & Electrical Guide for your model.

 

In case you were not aware. your S-type is a "switched ground/earth" system where constant voltage is supplied on the positive/hot side of the circuit and the ground is switched to activate the device.

 

Ok so here's what we've found. The REM is only seeing .62 volts and is throwing a low voltage fault. Battery is a brand new AGM battery and everything else is reading 12.6 volts.

 

Trace voltage through. Either figure it out or follow the free download workshop manual etc.

 

If you plan to keep the car consider getting a scanner that can see into the Jaguar internals? What scanner are you using now?
From your symptoms it sounds like the problem is in the REM? Post the error code to make sure we are all talking about the same problem?
Do you have the manuals for the car?
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I run a euro shop so we have really high end autel scan tool that can communicate with everything. I had my shop foreman check all the wiring and grounds on it already. But the REM is throwing a low voltage fault and one other fault as well. We ordered a new REM and it'll be here Thursday hopefully. I'm going to update the thread once that's tested so hopefully it can help someone else in the future if they run into similar problems. It does make sense that it's the REM though because none of the stuff in the rear of the car is working IE trunk, lights, interior trunk light, parking sensors, etc.

 

Does your shop have the capability to obtain and download the Jaguar-specific software?

IIRC, a new (never installed) REM will not have software preloaded. It’s not plug and play.

Other forum members have reported good results with used units. The trick is to find one with the same exact part number printed on the label. eBay is a good source when the seller posts pictures for comparison.

 

Did you check the voltages on the connectors at the rear module? Those modules are pretty stout as far as I can tell and it’s usually not the module that is the problem not saying that it isn’t the problem it’s just that I would’ve checked the voltages on the connectors to verify whether or not, they measured close to the system voltage. A lot of times you’ll get a low voltage inside a module because of corrosion on the connector pins at the module, and the trunk is known to have water leakage issue which would create a lot of moisture which could cause the corrosion which could cause low voltage , so do yourself a favor and pull the connectors and the module out and look at the pins for signs of corrosion. then check the voltage on those corroded pins and see what you got.

now that being said when you go to check the voltage on those pins if you’re using a pointy probe, you might break through the corrosion and fool yourself that there is correct voltage there, so it might be more beneficial to just clean up any pins that are corroded And sockets using a mild vinegar solution and then flush it with water and dry it out. I always like to take the modules apart to look inside to see if I notice anything burnt or discolored and I’ll even go as far as taking a high powered magnifying glass to look at all the solder joints to see if any of them have cracks, causing a high resistance connection. Believe it or not I fix a lot of stuff that had nothing more than a broken solder joint that was just barely observable with a high powered magnifying glass by resoldering the cracked solder joint on the part.

 

Ok sorry it took so long to update on this. I should have been more clear about the REM I bought. It's a used unit off of ebay and I did match the exact part number. It came in today and we installed it. Everything is working perfectly. I appreciate everyone's input here. The info was very helpful. We did check all wiring before purchasing the REM. I took it out for a ride earlier and couldn't be happier with it.

 

Good results but did the REM require programming as I think it does?

Aarcuda brings up a good point about electrical corrosion. But I have found a much better way to get rid of it compared to Alcohol. I did not believe the advertising at first as the claim to dissolve corrosion seemed a bit strong to me?



If you have any white/green electrical corrosion this will remove all of it! I had a interior fuse box in a F-150 that got wet for a while due to a windshield leak. I could see all the white stuff bubbling up in the all the metal contacts. I sprayed everything down and even managed to reuse the fuses that were all covered in white corrosion!

About $15-$20 a car so expensive but I will say it does work as advertised and I have used a lot of products trying remove electrical corrosion debris.
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Deoxit D5 is great stuff. We use it in aviation extensively. Not cheap, but you certainly do get what you pay for. Makes a nice salad dressing, too.

 

No programming was required for the REM and all of the connections were in good shape so I got off lucky. We have a similar product here at the shop that we use.

This issue ended up being very inexpensive but the previous owner had the pass side fuel pump replaced with an incorrect pump that isn't sealing all the way so I just had drop $650 on a new pump from the dealer so that kind of sucks. Haha

 

So instead of going out and spending a lot of money for that spray, he’s a helpful tip of the day. In the electronics business semi well-known secret to removing oxidation off solder joints, and other pleated metals is by using a substance known as oxalic acid. It’s cheap and it’s, not aggressive enough to eat away at the metal. It will takeoff the oxidation. Just make sure you rinse it well.

“ oh my God! Did he just say oxalic acid? Like what does he think? That I am a mad scientist chemist with a supply of oxidation removing chemicals at my beck and call? It’s not like I live next to a chemical supply house! Thanks for the worthless tip Aar!”

well, here’s a surprise for you. You probably already have it and don’t even know it. Oxalic acid is the main component in this little product right here so run out and get you container of it If you don’t already have it. put some into a little bowl and mix in some water and make a little bit of a runny paste (thin as you need to get it to run down inside the female connector pins and contacts) and slather it on. Let it work for however long , 10 minutes,15 minutes. However long you want. it’s not gonna eat away at the metal so dont worry about it hurting anything (unless you are yourself oxidized and want to remain that way (but there’s really not too many folks out there that are actually oxidized who enjoy it.). don’t worry about it hurting the pins. then rinse it off real well and dry it.

and that’s AARs quick tip of the day

 

You can buy powdered Oxalic acid on EBay which I have used for cleaning cooling systems. It's also a chelating agent somewhat similar to how Evaporust works. Works on most kinds of corrosion.
Oxalic Acid 4oz
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yup. True story!