I just successfully (or i thought) changed rear break pads, i ran into a problem where i couldn't push piston back, but i figured it out.
i changed pads put everything back together, washed car, and gave it a test drive when i got a break assist orange light error, then i got a low break fluid error.
i filled the fluid up and drove it home, when i noticed break fluid was leaking from rear drivers side.
i took rim off and had my bro press on break when i saw a small line of fluid shooting out of rubber boot that holds the piston.
this is the caliper and rotor


this is where i saw the leak thats runing my life


i touched the rubber thing to inspect and it blew up and sprayed in my face



the mess

does anyone know whats up? i called autozone and they said they had one for $110 jaguar said theirs cost $550. anyone have any suggestons? do i infact need a new caliper? are there any directions anywhere? will i have to bleed the breaks?

help plz and thanks

 

Looks to me like the piston seal is toast.
How did you get the piston back? It needs to be rotated/screwed in.
I'd vote on a replacement caliper to be safe.

 

Looking at your second photo, I'd say the outboard pad was not installed properly causing the caliper to be offset to the point that the piston seal left it's bore and leaked.

It's toast and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Yes, bleeding will be required.

As Norri mentioned- how did you retract the piston?

 

Yep pretty much what Norri and Mikey stated you are F***d, but what do I know......
How much do you wish to spend? This could be an expensive lesson, OEM or POS Rock Auto, I personally would look to one of our forum sponsors for replacement parts.

 

I used need nose channel locks and rotated the piston back.

I already installed a caliper from
Autozone. Cost $130. I'm going to bleed the breaks in the am. Anyone have tips or instructions to bleed breaks?
Do I have to bleed front too? Or just rear because that's the only one w air?

 

There are several things you need to do in addition to bleeding the brakes. You must clean the brake fluid from the suspension and bodywork and from the brake disc. Brake fluid can damage any painted surfaces and must be removed immediately. A best practice is to also replace the rear brake pads if they have become contaminated with brake fluid.

A special tool is normally used to depress the caliper piston back into its bore without damage to the piston, caliper and piston dust cover.

To bleed the brakes, you normally would begin with the RH rear on a LHD vehicle as that is the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. Use a box 10mm or 11mm to loosen the caliper bleed screw, but do not remove the bleed screw. After you have filled the master cylinder reservoir to the 'max' line, have someone pump the brake pedal several times and then hold it down while you loosen the bleed screw. Attach a length of clear hose to the bleed screw so you can see if any air is present in the fluid as it is forced out of the caliper. Once the fluid stops entering the hose, gently tighten the bleed screw and have the person inside the vehicle pump the pedal again to repeat the process. When finished and the fluid is now clear, tighten the bleed screws and reinstall the dust cap.

If this vehicle has not had the brake fluid changed within the past two years, it may be a good opportunity to just change it now. Complete the bleeding at the LH front caliper last.

Of course, you can just bleed the caliper you replaced and top up the brake fluid at the reservoir.