1999 S Type V8 Immobilised
So I gets to thinking. Typically, one hopes to find a single fault causing all these strange multiple symptoms.
But what if you’ve got two active faults? One older one that went unnoticed, perhaps causing the issue with the key fob, rear windows, and sunroof. If not using those functions, you would not have been aware of problem A.
Then a second fault (problem B) gets thrown into the mix, disabling the starter, which certainly gets your attention.
You might drive yourself crazy looking for a nonexistent single fault responsible for everything. Maybe what you’ve really got is two (or more) faults. Might need to start with a fault that is relatively easy to diagnose and chip away bit by bit.
But what if you’ve got two active faults? One older one that went unnoticed, perhaps causing the issue with the key fob, rear windows, and sunroof. If not using those functions, you would not have been aware of problem A.
Then a second fault (problem B) gets thrown into the mix, disabling the starter, which certainly gets your attention.
You might drive yourself crazy looking for a nonexistent single fault responsible for everything. Maybe what you’ve really got is two (or more) faults. Might need to start with a fault that is relatively easy to diagnose and chip away bit by bit.
Its time to go back to basics by the sounds of it. Do you have spark and fuel? Does the fuel pump run when you turn the key (does it have fuel in the tank?) ... is there fuel at the fuel rail? Does it have spark on a plug when you crank it.
If its not the immobiliser, your going to need to search a little further
.
If its not the immobiliser, your going to need to search a little further
.You mentioned that you have 2 keys for the car. Are those the OE (original) keys?
Or are those 2 copied keys?
I am asking, because I just had an issue with a copied key and apparently the transponder pill (which is in the front part of the key fob and has nothing to do with the remote part, which is in the rear part of the fob key) just stopped working. The car would not start with that key. It was my key No. 4. The car however started with key No. 1 and key No. 2, the 2 OE keys.
It is easy to DIY program the transponder pill of key No. 3 and 4, if you have both OE keys, but even though, I could not reprogram the pill of No. 4. I then put a brand new transponder-pill in (from a new flip key), and then I could reprogram the key.
But all that is just a note aside and I wanted to say that if you happen to have 2 copied keys, then maybe they both lost their transponder function.
But this again would not explain all your other problems, unless the system plays up after repeated starting attempt without valid transponder (I would not know).
And here are some thoughts totally out of the box:
I have no idea, how such a transponder works. And it is also a total mystery to my as to why it should suddenly stop working.
But here is a crazy idea:
Recently this planet experienced really severe sun-storms. Sun-storms can mess up electronics. Is there any chance that a sun-storm can erase the information/function of a transponder? And maybe not just a copied transponder pill, but also OE transponders? My different key were stored in different locations (so maybe some were protected from the sun-storms, if that is the problem - or some are more susceptible to such damage...).
I know these are wild ideas... - The AI of my browse seems to think there is no connection. But then: Whatever destroyed my transponder may have destroyed your transponders - whatever that may be.
Which would lead to the following new idea of thoughts:
As Jon has the IDS software and the mongoose cable: Does anyone know, what to do with that to find out, if the transponders are still operational?
Or are those 2 copied keys?
I am asking, because I just had an issue with a copied key and apparently the transponder pill (which is in the front part of the key fob and has nothing to do with the remote part, which is in the rear part of the fob key) just stopped working. The car would not start with that key. It was my key No. 4. The car however started with key No. 1 and key No. 2, the 2 OE keys.
It is easy to DIY program the transponder pill of key No. 3 and 4, if you have both OE keys, but even though, I could not reprogram the pill of No. 4. I then put a brand new transponder-pill in (from a new flip key), and then I could reprogram the key.
But all that is just a note aside and I wanted to say that if you happen to have 2 copied keys, then maybe they both lost their transponder function.
But this again would not explain all your other problems, unless the system plays up after repeated starting attempt without valid transponder (I would not know).
And here are some thoughts totally out of the box:
I have no idea, how such a transponder works. And it is also a total mystery to my as to why it should suddenly stop working.
But here is a crazy idea:
Recently this planet experienced really severe sun-storms. Sun-storms can mess up electronics. Is there any chance that a sun-storm can erase the information/function of a transponder? And maybe not just a copied transponder pill, but also OE transponders? My different key were stored in different locations (so maybe some were protected from the sun-storms, if that is the problem - or some are more susceptible to such damage...).
I know these are wild ideas... - The AI of my browse seems to think there is no connection. But then: Whatever destroyed my transponder may have destroyed your transponders - whatever that may be.
Which would lead to the following new idea of thoughts:
As Jon has the IDS software and the mongoose cable: Does anyone know, what to do with that to find out, if the transponders are still operational?
Hey thanks. Both keys and fobs are original
So I gets to thinking. Typically, one hopes to find a single fault causing all these strange multiple symptoms.
But what if you’ve got two active faults? One older one that went unnoticed, perhaps causing the issue with the key fob, rear windows, and sunroof. If not using those functions, you would not have been aware of problem A.
Then a second fault (problem B) gets thrown into the mix, disabling the starter, which certainly gets your attention.
You might drive yourself crazy looking for a nonexistent single fault responsible for everything. Maybe what you’ve really got is two (or more) faults. Might need to start with a fault that is relatively easy to diagnose and chip away bit by bit.
But what if you’ve got two active faults? One older one that went unnoticed, perhaps causing the issue with the key fob, rear windows, and sunroof. If not using those functions, you would not have been aware of problem A.
Then a second fault (problem B) gets thrown into the mix, disabling the starter, which certainly gets your attention.
You might drive yourself crazy looking for a nonexistent single fault responsible for everything. Maybe what you’ve really got is two (or more) faults. Might need to start with a fault that is relatively easy to diagnose and chip away bit by bit.
Have checked wiring. Norhing stands out. I unplugged the rear ecu and the peoblem was exactly the same. I have a feeling I need to replace the rear ecu. No idea how to go about that with the programming etc eek!
I think the rear ecu may be shot. I unplugged it and the problems were exactly the same. Couldnt find any broken wires etc. Anyone know how to reprogram an ecu if I find one is it something I could do?
More random thoughts:
Can you please elaborate on the recent history of the car? Is this a reliable daily driver with this new problem out of the blue? Was this a derelict dragged out of a marsh and rehabilitated by a vocational school for troubled youth, and this was the first start attempt in years?
You mentioned the "starter fell to bits" in your first post. Perhaps this was after an extending period of cranking the starter when the engine wouldn't start? Just thinking of a scenario with something like the fuel pump failing, so the starter would engage as normal but the engine would not run. Let's call that Problem A. Meanwhile, the poor starter self-destructs after extended cranking, and also burns up the starter relay in the process. Those are Problems B and C. The new starter takes care of B, but you've still got A and C active.
Can you please elaborate on the recent history of the car? Is this a reliable daily driver with this new problem out of the blue? Was this a derelict dragged out of a marsh and rehabilitated by a vocational school for troubled youth, and this was the first start attempt in years?
You mentioned the "starter fell to bits" in your first post. Perhaps this was after an extending period of cranking the starter when the engine wouldn't start? Just thinking of a scenario with something like the fuel pump failing, so the starter would engage as normal but the engine would not run. Let's call that Problem A. Meanwhile, the poor starter self-destructs after extended cranking, and also burns up the starter relay in the process. Those are Problems B and C. The new starter takes care of B, but you've still got A and C active.
Hey. No ive used the car every day and its been fine. The starter pinion fell out with some bearings when I unbolted it. It had been off kolter and stopped connecting with the flywheel.
Never had a problem with the car. And the new starter turns if I bridge the relay.
Never had a problem with the car. And the new starter turns if I bridge the relay.
Is there some kind of moderator's approval required to unlock posts by the OP? The main forum page shows he had the most recent post (until mine just now) but I'm not seeing them here in the actual thread.
Mods, feel free to delete this post once the issue is resolved.
Anticipating some good news, and of course a gushing tribute to my troubleshooting prowess.
Mods, feel free to delete this post once the issue is resolved.
Anticipating some good news, and of course a gushing tribute to my troubleshooting prowess.

Last edited by kr98664; Feb 5, 2026 at 09:37 PM.
Is there some kind of moderator's approval required to unlock posts by the OP? The main forum page shows he had the most recent post (until mine just now) but I'm not seeing them here in the actual thread.
Mods, feel free to delete this post once the issue is resolved.
Anticipating some good news, and of course a gushing tribute to my troubleshooting prowess.
Mods, feel free to delete this post once the issue is resolved.
Anticipating some good news, and of course a gushing tribute to my troubleshooting prowess.

Is there some kind of moderator's approval required to unlock posts by the OP? The main forum page shows he had the most recent post (until mine just now) but I'm not seeing them here in the actual thread.
Mods, feel free to delete this post once the issue is resolved.
Anticipating some good news, and of course a gushing tribute to my troubleshooting prowess.
Mods, feel free to delete this post once the issue is resolved.
Anticipating some good news, and of course a gushing tribute to my troubleshooting prowess.

Jon,
I am seeing posts from you from today - are you still experiencing long delays between when you Submit Reply and it shows up in the thread?
It is possible that your posts were under moderation, but I can't see any indication that you are still under any limitation.
If you continue to have problems, I'll forward your issues to IB technical support.
Cheers,
Don
I am seeing posts from you from today - are you still experiencing long delays between when you Submit Reply and it shows up in the thread?
It is possible that your posts were under moderation, but I can't see any indication that you are still under any limitation.
If you continue to have problems, I'll forward your issues to IB technical support.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Feb 6, 2026 at 09:37 PM.
I'm a new member too.... I don't appear to be under moderation.... Posts, do post immediately. strange. I'm a moderator on a different car forum. You don't put members on modertation/approval lists as its just to much work on an active forum such as this one
Jon,
I have just learned that you fell into the automated anti-spam criteria because you are a new member and posted multiple posts in a short period of time. All should be good now.
Cheers,
Don
I have just learned that you fell into the automated anti-spam criteria because you are a new member and posted multiple posts in a short period of time. All should be good now.
Cheers,
Don
OP's recent posts (with pertinent details) have now shown up.
The bad news:
I have no idea what to suggest next. I was hoping to see a pattern of cascading faults but nothing jumps out at me.
Hello again everybody. Thank you for for all your help so far. i am not moderated now so I am sorry it took a while to answer your questions. I think I answered a few in a row and it thought I was spamming.
So I have been looking into stuff, with the mindset of, I can communicate with the Main ECU and nothing else so what physically and electronically happens next in the chain. Now I did have an abs fault light on my dash for 2 days before the starter packed up. But the starter was physically damaged so that was a separate thing. I think maybe there was a fault with another system and once the battery was disconnected it drained its caps and never came back to life or some such thing. What I am thinking is, from what I have read :
Next link in the chain from main ecu seems to be the Powertrain Control Module, which talks to the ABS module. Maybe the PCM was having issues talking to the ABS which is fine, or maybe the ABS isnt fine.
However, I can not communicate with the PCM in the IDS Software either, or anything after it. I am going to swap the 2 PCM relays with the wiper relay and another one that's not important in starting such as the windshield heater relay. I will 50thripple check the ABS and PCM fuses and swap them anyway. I can also see there is a PCM Diode, looks like a fuse type thing, in the fuse box. Unsure how to check that but if it looks obviously burnt or something maybe there is the problem.
Is anyone able to offer any guidance? i can swap the fuses and relays over and if things start acting different, I am onto something, but if not, I have a mustimeter etc, never really used one tho. What would you recommend doing after that to follow this thought process, if it seems like a valid one to you?
I just think, with everything happening when I changed the starter, it would be too much of a coincidence for a wire to suddenly corrode or break at exactly the same time I change my starter. Although I can see logically how a break like that would make sense, it would be very very weird for it to happen right then. I know coincidences do happen, but my mind takes me to a the thoughts of a system having some intermittent communication stopping all else in the chain from communicating, and powering down completely maybe took any residual power from that system and it shut off and wont come on again.
So I have been looking into stuff, with the mindset of, I can communicate with the Main ECU and nothing else so what physically and electronically happens next in the chain. Now I did have an abs fault light on my dash for 2 days before the starter packed up. But the starter was physically damaged so that was a separate thing. I think maybe there was a fault with another system and once the battery was disconnected it drained its caps and never came back to life or some such thing. What I am thinking is, from what I have read :
Next link in the chain from main ecu seems to be the Powertrain Control Module, which talks to the ABS module. Maybe the PCM was having issues talking to the ABS which is fine, or maybe the ABS isnt fine.
However, I can not communicate with the PCM in the IDS Software either, or anything after it. I am going to swap the 2 PCM relays with the wiper relay and another one that's not important in starting such as the windshield heater relay. I will 50thripple check the ABS and PCM fuses and swap them anyway. I can also see there is a PCM Diode, looks like a fuse type thing, in the fuse box. Unsure how to check that but if it looks obviously burnt or something maybe there is the problem.
Is anyone able to offer any guidance? i can swap the fuses and relays over and if things start acting different, I am onto something, but if not, I have a mustimeter etc, never really used one tho. What would you recommend doing after that to follow this thought process, if it seems like a valid one to you?
I just think, with everything happening when I changed the starter, it would be too much of a coincidence for a wire to suddenly corrode or break at exactly the same time I change my starter. Although I can see logically how a break like that would make sense, it would be very very weird for it to happen right then. I know coincidences do happen, but my mind takes me to a the thoughts of a system having some intermittent communication stopping all else in the chain from communicating, and powering down completely maybe took any residual power from that system and it shut off and wont come on again.








