Hey everyone. Unfortunately my starter motor fell to bits and I put a new one in. Ever since then the car has been immobilised.

I have bought the Mongoose Cable and installed the Jaguar IDS Software (I have to use legacy), but I can't figure out how to unlock it. I have the Steering Column Locked message and a bunch of lights on, and it flashes to Low Fuel, because the fuel computer is disabled by the immobiliser I think.

The rear ECM and Driver Door Module are not able to be found in the software, but I am guessing all of that kinda stuff is disconnected by the immobiliser.

I have done all of the things I have sent 100s of hours looking at online, disconnecting battery for ages, touching cables together to clear canbus, jiggling the key, leaving the key ion on position for 15 minutes etc etc and figured I needed the IDS Software and cable to do a proper read.

Can someone please please help me? I am disabled and just got a job as a postman after 11 months out of work, I can't get to my job without spending a 3rd of my pay on Ubers as the buses dont run when I start at 5.30am. It's a nightmare for me!

I have the software locked and loaded, but cant seem to figure out how to disable the immobiliser or to get it to speak to the other ECUs etc which I am just guessing at. The guy who sold me the cable said just go to Setup - Body - Security - Immobiliser but there are no such options.

Pretty please help, I'm normally awesome at computer stuff but this either I am doing wrong (most likely) or it just isn't do-able with a laptop, IDS Legacy and a Mongoose cable. I'm so devastated

 

Sorry I should add, both my key fobs will unlock the drivers door. The boot release isn't working on the keyfobs now. Part of the security I expect. And I have tried both my keys which always worked fine before I changed the starter. Also only the driver and passenger windows will open, no sunroof or back window action. it all points at immobiliser to me.

My rear lights are on when I connect the battery, but I assume that the immobiliser has made the front ECU stop talking to the rear ECM and door module which would explain this possibly.

 

Welcome, mate. Do not despair. We have awesome support here. Your issues will be fixed. But first, you have to introduce yourself here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/n...-up%2A-241802/

Then, we'll have our experts tell you what to do.

 

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear your car is giving you such a headache.

I’m not well versed in the security system but am puzzled how it went into DEFCON 4 mode simply by replacing the starter. Did you have the battery disconnected during the process? Or was there a big shower of sparks?

If the battery was not disconnected, I wonder if the megafuse blew. Maybe not, as I think it would take out all electrical power but I’m not 100% sure on that.

Have you checked the battery voltage? IIRC, the big cable to the starter is always hot. A separate low amperage control circuit switches the starter on or off. Just thinking out loud, but maybe your new starter is defective and is depleting the battery.

I also wonder what would happen if you disconnected the wiring to the starter for troubleshooting. Carefully isolate the wires so nothing shorts out. Obviously the engine won’t start but see if the other faults clear.

Whatever is happening, I’m still puzzled how replacing the starter caused it.

 

Hey mate. Thanks for answering. I disconnected the battery to change the starter. I have a brand new battery. Fully charged. No sparks etc. Tested starter using the relay and all good there

 

What PATS code is flashing if any?
Here is a page from my student guide.

 

No PATS code. Just flashes once for a few seconds when I put the keybin. Usual 1 flash every second or so when locked

 

If it's a 1999 V8 it should be a 4.0 (a V6 would be 3.0) and that era car has no CAN bus.

Electrical Guide etc are on JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

The immo should not disable or hide modules from diag software.

 

Thanks. Yes it is a v8. I have not touched any electrics except to check them after the fault. Except the solenoid connectors on the starter

 

Got to poking around a bit. As you probably already deduced by now, the Ford anti-theft system (PATS) of that era was used by Jaguar. Not a lot of info about the Jaguar version, but plenty online about the Ford version if you're willing to extrapolate a bit.

The more I read, the more I'm inclined to say most of your symptoms are NOT directly related to PATS. One thing I had never realized is the alarm and anti-theft systems are totally independent. With the doors locked and alarm set, if you were to somehow open a door (such as pulling a door release from inside after breaking a window), the horn will sound and the lights will flash. But surprisingly, this alarm response is NOT connected to the anti-theft system. The anti-theft system only requires seeing a key programmed to the vehicle. If the wrong key is tried, the starter operation is inhibited. I think the fuel injectors are also inhibited, but am not positive about that.

But you had mentioned problems with the windows and sunroof. Not related to PATS. Some exterior lights acting up. Not related to PATS. Trunk release not working via key fob. Not related to PATS. Unable to read certain modules with your scanner software. Not related to PATS.

Edit: The other huge clue is your PATS light is not flashing like crazy to indicate anti-theft protection has been triggered.

So whatever is happening, the PATS "immobilizer" is not the culprit for the bulk of the symptoms. This makes me think a module is not getting powered up, for reasons unknown such as a blown fuse.

 

Thanks. I have checked all the fuses and cant see any blown.

 

Did you check the primary junction box? I owned my car for several years before even realizing this small panel existed. It's inside the cabin, just forward of the hinges for the right front door. Several important fuses are located here.

 

Yes. I checked all 3 fuse boxes.

 

Chewed cables? Something misconnected? Bad relay?

I agree it isn't PATS.

 

Thanks. I will check all the cables again. But havent found anything untoward on checking before

 

I can see that there is some amateur looking wiring going to the rear ecu near the battery. It looks like someone tried to wire a caravan plug but has disconnected it. Ita possible that when I took put the spare tire to gwt to the wheel brace, I may have knocked something. But I have looked and it all looks like everyrhing is securely connected and no loose wires etc. I will go through those wires again on the weekend and triple check that everything is secure.

 

It doesn't have an aftermarket alarm/immoliser fitted as well does it?

seeya
Shane L.

 

Hey there. No everything is pretty standard except the caravan wiring. I did put in a cd to phone connector changer turning my cd input into phone input, but that still works and has had no issues. I can easily reverse that back to normal if needed.

 

Its time to go back to basics by the sounds of it. Do you have spark and fuel? Does the fuel pump run when you turn the key (does it have fuel in the tank?) ... is there fuel at the fuel rail? Does it have spark on a plug when you crank it.

If its not the immobiliser, your going to need to search a little further .

 

You mentioned that you have 2 keys for the car. Are those the OE (original) keys?
Or are those 2 copied keys?
I am asking, because I just had an issue with a copied key and apparently the transponder pill (which is in the front part of the key fob and has nothing to do with the remote part, which is in the rear part of the fob key) just stopped working. The car would not start with that key. It was my key No. 4. The car however started with key No. 1 and key No. 2, the 2 OE keys.
It is easy to DIY program the transponder pill of key No. 3 and 4, if you have both OE keys, but even though, I could not reprogram the pill of No. 4. I then put a brand new transponder-pill in (from a new flip key), and then I could reprogram the key.

But all that is just a note aside and I wanted to say that if you happen to have 2 copied keys, then maybe they both lost their transponder function.
But this again would not explain all your other problems, unless the system plays up after repeated starting attempt without valid transponder (I would not know).

And here are some thoughts totally out of the box:
I have no idea, how such a transponder works. And it is also a total mystery to my as to why it should suddenly stop working.
But here is a crazy idea:
Recently this planet experienced really severe sun-storms. Sun-storms can mess up electronics. Is there any chance that a sun-storm can erase the information/function of a transponder? And maybe not just a copied transponder pill, but also OE transponders? My different key were stored in different locations (so maybe some were protected from the sun-storms, if that is the problem - or some are more susceptible to such damage...).

I know these are wild ideas... - The AI of my browse seems to think there is no connection. But then: Whatever destroyed my transponder may have destroyed your transponders - whatever that may be.

Which would lead to the following new idea of thoughts:
As Jon has the IDS software and the mongoose cable: Does anyone know, what to do with that to find out, if the transponders are still operational?