+1 on using a voltmeter to check voltage at the battery with the ignition off. Use the Torque app to determine fuel pressure, or lack of fuel pressure.

 

Hey J......im telling my 2003 Jaguar S-type is cranking & cranking but NO start...got only 54K miles original ...on it J.......
Battery power is high close to 14 V...super hi J......like i said im gona repeat my steps J...........
I'm only waiting for a nice warm day to come along since it's been drizzling n' cloudy lately here........I'm waiting on a warm & toasty day with a bright sun, so that i can crawl underneath again.........
Thanks for your patience..........

 

Georgie:

With all this "cranking and cranking," how is it that the battery is reading nearly 14V? Have you been throwing a charger on it and managed to read the "surface charge" and not the actual battery voltage? Inquiring minds want to know...

(And, BTW, 10W-30 is the wrong weight oil for your car; it is 5W-30 like is printed on the oil filler cap for easy reference...)

 

Aw the joys of the internet!
Where no one knows your a dog.
.
.
.

 

Okay, figure out why it won't start. Don't keep cranking and hoping and cranking and hoping. That's a great way to kill a battery and/or starter. Then you've got a new problem in addition to the existing fault keeping the engine from starting.


Fuel pumps on these cars are notorious for failing due to inactivity. I'm NOT saying just rush out and replace the fuel pump. But do check fuel pressure as part of normal troubleshooting for a no-start condition.

As previously mentioned, that sounds high, as if you are reading surface charge.

Also, and this is VERY important: Do not confuse starter cranking speed with adequate battery power. On the forum, we've had many examples where the starter cranking speed seemed fine, but the battery voltage was too low for the various computer modules to function properly. This isn't like some vintage Oldsmobuick where if the starter got things spinning, the engine would fire up. It's a totally different animal.

I would suggest making sure the battery is fully charged. I'd recommend an automatic charger with at least a ten amp output, hooked up overnight. Don't waste your time with a trickle charger, it won't cut it.

We get it. This new problem suddenly appeared immediately after doing an oil change. Normal troubleshooting for new faults immediately after performing other work? Yep, just like you're thinking - revisit all recent work. But I think in your case, there isn't much to go wrong in the immediate vicinity of the oil filter. IIRC, you've got an O2 sensor near the filter, but even if you accidentally ripped out the wiring, it won't prevent an engine start. You'd get some fault codes for the O2 sensor, but it would start and run. The timing seems to be a pure coincidence. Don't let that sidetrack you.

One quick thing you can check - the security system. If somehow got triggered, it may keep the engine from starting. To check, look at the indicator light at the base of the windshield, in the middle near the defroster ducts. Here's how the light is supposed to behave if all is good and no faults are present:

First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every few seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault and the security system may have inhibited the engine from starting.

Now, I'm a cranky old man so I can hopefully get away with the following. Pay attention to what people are trying to tell you about getting your car going again. We have no idea of your experience level or your working conditions. We do this for fun because we (more or less) enjoy tinkering with cars, and (more or less) enjoy helping others do the same. There are some highly experienced guys here, more than willing to offer whatever help they can. A few near-miracles have occurred, solving highly vexing problems. But throw us a bone, please. Slow down and listen to what has been suggested. Offered with all due respect.

 

For a late model V6, see this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-52987/

Scroll down to the second from last picture in the first post. The drain plug is forward of the front crossmember, on the right side.

 

Ohhhhhhhh my.....i could KISS YOU..... .!!
please let me kiss you because just a hand shake n a hug is not enuff......But of course Security System. Thats what it is...i mean I even haven't checked it and yet I know that's what it is. You see because my both keys alarms dont work ...they haven't worked for 2 or 3 years for now....1 key alarm stopped working abt 3 ys ago and the 2nd one abt year n half ago and so I have been just using the one key which is on my key ring to open doors manually and start up the motor AND it worked perfectly too....before all this drama it ALWAYS n ALWAYS started right up... not even with a single hesitation...just like a brand new car from a dealer...
Security System yes... Oh my... I never even thought of it....So now maybe because I jacked up the car up high then the car's sensor must have triggered and that's why this is happening.....WOW WOW WOW

 

Also n also thank u for that link regarding the oil drain plug for my beautiful brilliant silver 2003 S-type w only 54K miles.....i don't think I'm gonna do it in the near future because of all this drama plus the motor inside wasn't even bad....it looked so clean.. a golden color........but I'm sure when I do get passed all this unpleasant drama with the car not starting up then in the coming future perhaps i will use your link in order to do a complete job rather just changing the oil filter.....thank u again friend......

 

Also n also thank u for that link regarding the oil drain plug for my beautiful brilliant silver 2003 S-type w only 54K miles.....i don't think I'm gonna do it in the near future because of all this drama plus the motor oil inside wasn't even bad....it looked so clean.. a golden color........but I'm sure when I do get passed all this unpleasant drama with the car not starting up then in the coming future perhaps i will use your link in order to do a complete oil change job rather just changing the oil filter.....thank u again friend......
Now first thing that Security System of the key alarm....OK i must get it working again...so I'll check the battery and go to My near by Autozone... I'm so excited about it.....and after replacing car key alarm battery i will try it then if NO good then my second step is to get it programmed.......thank you. Thank u. Thank you.....

 

checked all ignition related fuses and all is GOOD...now what about the Security System on the car...u see another fine fellow mentioned just that....so today i already replaced the 2 batteries inside my jaguar keys....CR2032...now both key alarms are working good BUT still no start....I'm sure both keys have to be programmed to my car since my car was jacked up high and it must have triggered the cars security system.....but then again I have second thoughts thinking about this....wait a moment the car is gonna be jacked up high many times over its lifetime and it can't be affecting the security system each n every time....that would be insane....i don't know man this is mysterious for sure.....BUT I gotta tell u that the car does act jst like the key is just a flat screwdriver turning n a computer chip is not supporting the metal part.....of the key....but then again I don't know is there a tiny computer chip somehow implanted inside that flat screwdriver type key's body ..I don't know ...hahahaha

 

I doubt Karl wants you to kiss him but will be content if you follow his suggestions.
It's extremely unlikely jacking up the car affected the security system, but that doesn't mean it's not playing up.
See the info in red below, go through the process and then let us know what you find.

 

It depends. Mustache? That's where I draw the line...

 

Don't read too much into those dead batteries in the key fobs. Those batteries provide the juice for remote locking and unlocking of the doors, but that's about it. Think of that as a convenience function only.

The anti-theft aspect of the keys? That's is handled by a small chip totally independent of those batteries. This chip responds to interrogation from the car and when all is in agreement, the security system allows the engine to start. The security chip has no battery nor does it need one.

You could remove the CR2032 battery and the key should still start the car. You couldn't lock or unlock the doors remotely, but that's a separate issue.

Before you launch yourself down a rabbit trail worrying about this security chip, please observe the behavior of the indicator light for the security system. If the security chip interrogation/response failed for some exceedingly rare reason, the indicator light will tell you. Please see my previous message for a description of normal behavior. If the indicator light shows a happy security system, the problem lies elsewhere.

Plan about 45 seconds of your life to observe the indicator light. If good, move on. Fuel, spark, compression... Gotta have 'em. Don't torture yourself trying to figure out the timing of the no-start condition. Check for fuel pressure. Check for ignition. You're not likely to have suddenly lost all compression, so put that way down on the list of possibilities.

Here's another way to look at the situation. You wash your hands and put the car by the side of the road with a FREE sign in the window and keys in the ignition. Some Russian dude shows up with a car dolly and tows it away. He knows absolutely nothing of the history. He begins at square one and checks for fuel, spark, and compression. He quickly determines the fault, repairs it, and is soon driving around in a very nice car because he followed basic troubleshooting. Do you want Vlad to have all the fun instead of you?

 

"Do you want Vlad to have all the fun instead of you?"

Especially since the car is brilliant and has only 54,000 miles on it, as the OP has told us repeatedly...

 

OK yes i got ur instructions...now I must follow it...
here is what u said.......
First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every few seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet)*. *The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault and the security system may have inhibited the engine from starting....
Got it friend ... I will do it
And no definitely will NOT leave Vladimir Putin to take my car....nyet! 🤠

 

OK fellows and yes it took only couple of minutes to do the security system check step by step i did it following ur instructions.... sorry light is working normal like u said ...red light on the center dashboard is all GOOD..
solid red light came ON couple of seconds then cut out.. no flash or nothing after that.

 

Don't be sorry! This is actually very good news. Trying to untangle an anti-theft problem can be very tricky. You're not dealing with any of that, thank goodness. You've got what is most likely a garden variety problem with either the fuel or ignition system. Tell Vlad to back off!

Please note the importance of going where the troubleshooting clues lead you from now on. It's time to follow symptoms, not hunches. Not trying to bust your chops, but here are some topics we no longer need to mention from here out, in no particular order:

1) Oil changes

2) Jacks and jack stands

3) Keys

4) Key fobs


Before digging deeper, I have some VERY specific questions for you. Please answer each one individually with clear details, in a format a cranky old man like myself can decipher. Take your time.

1) Do you have a multimeter? This is a yes/no question. If yes, bonus points if you specify make and model number.

2) Do you have a scanner, or access to one? Another yes/no question. I'm not talking about a simple code reader, which can only retrieve and clear OBD fault codes. I'm talking a scanner that can read live data. I have an inexpensive model, maybe $50 IIRC that communicates with my iPhone via bluetooth. Worth its weight in gold.

3) If you don't have a scanner, how long until it arrives? Note the subtle way I implied you absoposolutely should have one for troubleshooting.

4) What are your repair capabilities? This is more of an essay question, so bonus points for proper grammar and sentence structure. Let's say we determine your fuel pump is bad, a likely fault. Actually, let's pause right here for an important warning: Do NOT go down that rabbit trail yet without proper diagnosis to confirm the pump is bad. Oooh, but it's SO-O-O-O tempting! Do NOT make me break out the tranquilizer gun, as those darts are expensive. If we have to go there, don't pull out the dart. Trust me, it's for your own good. This video explains how the process works:


Some people have said it's not safe to be shooting tranquilizer darts at other forum members. I have to respectfully disagree. I know to keep the safety engaged until within range and ready to fire. Keep the barrel pointed away from myself at all times. Anticipate the kickback from the gun, etc. By following these basic safety rules, I should be perfectly safe.

Now, back to the question about your repair capabilities. Let's say we run some troubleshooting steps and successfully isolate the problem. If it's the fuel pump, do you have the facilities to replace it? That's not something you want to be doing in an apartment parking lot with a tool box containing a pair of Vise-Grips and scissors and a hot glue gun and some sparkly glitter left over from a previous decorating project you saw on Instagram, no matter how nice it looks on your mantle. I hate to spend all sorts of time running you through these steps if you're just going to end up having the car towed to a shop for repair.

5) What year and engine? I had been thinking 2003 V6, but upon review I'm not seeing anything about the engine. If you have the V8, please specify if normally aspirated or supercharged.

Five basic questions for you. Please let us know.

In the meantime, here's a couple of quick things you can do for troubleshooting. So far we don't even know if this is an ignition or fuel problem. Please note none of the following are repairs, and are only means to isolate the root cause for eventual repair.

1) Listen for the fuel pump when you first turn the key to Run (not Start). The pump runs briefly to pressurize the injector rail before starting. Lift up the rear seat bottom to help hear the pump. I think there are two latches at the front of the seat bottom. Slide them to the side (?) and then raise the seat bottom. Close the doors and windows, and turn off the radio and HVAC to make the cabin as quiet as possible. Turn the key from Off to Run (not Start). If the pump runs as commanded, you will hear it for a few seconds. This doesn't mean the pressure is reaching the injectors, but is a good sign. If no sound, you will need to figure out if the pump has failed or is not receiving the command, including blown fuses or failed relays.

2) Test to see if the ignition is working, using aerosol Mechanic-In-A-Can, aka starting fluid. But first, raise your right hand and repeat after me:

"I do solemnly swear to follow these instructions exactly."

Even the name "starting fluid" is a misnomer. We're NOT trying to actually start the engine, and don't expect it to run on its own. We're only using this stuff for troubleshooting, to see if the ignition is working, and nothing more. It should be called "troubleshooting fluid" for our purposes.

Remove the air filter and spray a quick burst into the intake tube, about 3 seconds maximum. Hand the can to an athletic helper and tell him to run away as fast as possible. (The idea is you can only try a SINGLE 3-second burst of spray, and will not be able to keep trying until you blow off the intake manifold.) When your helper is at least a quarter mile away, turn the key to Start. If the ignition system is working properly, the engine will run briefly until this alternate fuel source is consumed. If the engine responds, this confirms the ignition system is working, and the problem is an undetermined issue with fuel delivery.

 

Ooh, almost forgot. More questions:

6) Do you have a battery charger? If yes, brand and model number please, plus output amperage.

7) If no, when will your new battery charger be arriving?

Can't stress this enough: For any electrical troubleshooting, it's important to begin with a fully charged battery. Do not rely on the alternator to have kept the battery fully charged, especially after repeated start attempts.

 

You've been reading my mind again, I was just wondering that this morning. Perhaps bore wash is possible?
Does it appear to be cranking faster and more easily than normal? (Once the battery is fully charged)

 

Can't help it. Quit thinking so much, and I'll try a thicker grade of metal for my tin foil hat.