Those figures are OK. And it's a new battery so I don't see any problem with the battery.

Wires & connectors (especially to & from the autobox) would be what I'd check next. Or I'd be finding an autobox specialist to have them check fluid level and diagnose the problem (they'd probably change the solenoid pack). Don't get a jag place to do it! They hardly know anything about the autobox (it's just a closed unit to them). Whereas any good tranny place will probably know that box and its usual problems.

 

A one volt increase instead of a normal 2.5 volt increase due to alternator spinning may indicate a low battery; but why? Is this due to the charging system (alternator/regulator) not up to par? Like you, we want this issue to be a simpler repair such as a charging system fault rather than a toasted trans, etc. Wouldn't a faulty charging system warning message appear?

 

At least on the redesigned car, and I expect the original, the alternator can put out different voltages under control of the PCM (which also controls the tranny on the original cars). I think the higher voltage is about 14.4V. It's only commanded when the PCM believes extra charging is needed, I think.

Reading JTIS for details would be a good idea

If I've remembered correctly (NOT by any means certain!!), the battery & alternator are OK (or at least seem so).

 

Well..i called a transmission place that a friend of mine recommended and the person i spoke to seemed to know this tranny and all it's problems. He told me that the first thing he would have said was to change the battery but since i already did that and the codes and transmission message doesnt go away like before he thinks my tranny is completely gone.

He said that he goes to various seminars and that this transmission is well known around the mechanic crowd and that there are various "updates" that need to be done on it when its going to be rebuilt or else i will come back to the same problem in a matter of months. I asked him about just getting a new one and he said he doesn't recommend that because the 5r55n/e is poorly designed and it will give me problems randomly without those reinforced parts installed inside it.

He also said he would give me a 2 year 24K mile warranty and that after he rebuilds it he guarantees at least 100K miles on it, the cost is $2600

What can anyone tell me about these "updated" or "reinforced parts on the transmission? or was this guy just all BS Thanks.

 

13.7 volts with alternator charging is NOT RIGHT. The charge voltage of 14.4 volts is remarkably consistent, assuming the meter you used for measuring is accurate. ALL vehicles with a 12volt battery using an alternator to charge it read 14.4volt; it's universal. That 14.4volt should be accurate down to + or - 2% or so. I have measured dozens of cars in the past and it has ALWAYS been 14.4volt. It's known as the constant-voltage charging system.
Clue -- sluggish cranking.
Clue -- most of your errorcodes are electrically related.

Check alternator drive belt for tightness. It should be surprizingly tight. Alternator bearings are designed for a tight belt. Check the alternator's big output terminal. This passes 60amp or so, should be clean and tight for brass. If ok, remove alternator and have it checked by a competent electrician.
Leedsman.

 

The workshop manual describes two alternator output voltage settings, selected by the PCM, being 13.6V and (depending on car model) 14.3V or 15.3V.

(It also describes a series of tests to perform which the OP may like to do.)

 

jagv8 I can't open the JTIS since my PC has Windows 7 64bit, could you tell me what tests are those?, I have a 2001 Jaguar S-type V6. Also could anyone answer my question about the tranny guy above just in case it does need to be rebuilt...thanks a lot everyone hopefully this is something cheaper than a transmission i will check out the alternator drive belt later today it is 4:16AM right now.

 

I also can't open it as I am not using Windows most of the time. The files you need are text files so you can just read them and struggle a bit with the markup (SGML) like I do.

 

If it was mine, I would still lean towards an electrical issue. Before I spent over 2 grand, I would be going over the wiring, or send it to a electrical specialist. Even if it takes a couple hundred to test and trouble shoot.
Honestly, it has reached beyond my skill, so again if it was me, it would be in to a shop. All the warning lamps haven't equated to major driving issues, have they. So far, it has had some sluggish performance at start, then the starting issue in general correct? That still makes me think that the trans is just getting mad at an electrical issue.

As for the trans guy. He sounds solid. If you know him, I would trust his opinion. The Ford trans is a known weak point and I'm sure Ford "updated" certain parts since your car was built. So, his comment of the problem just occuring again is not unfounded.

 

Well JOsworth right now it has gotten to the point that it does start but the engine just dies after a few seconds and if you try to start it again it goes and then dies. And now the transmission fault message and the check engine light are always there, even if i clear them they come back as soon as i try to start the car. the problem has gotten worse as time passes by.

 

Well i rechecked the battery voltage and with the engine off it was 12.5v, engine on 13.8v and cranking it was 11v.

Everything seems fine there right?