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Hi all. 11/18 over turkey day I plan on changing my timing chain tensioners. I have 52k miles and want to keep the car. I have
1. cristophers Jag replacement kit.includes all chains gaskets and tensioners
2. jtis instructions
3. Crank holder
4. Timing tool kit double holder.
5. 300 ft lb 3/4" drive torque wrench
6. 3/4" 20" breaker bar
7. 3/4" 24mm shallow 6 point socket.
8. Water pump has 20k miles. On it.
9. Plan on tear down weekend prior to install.
10. Have all instructions in a 3 ring binder.
11. Nephew who wrenches coming down for the holiday.
Ill post pic if I can figure out how. Wish me luck! Did I miss anything??
john
Use the correct tool for the AJ28 to hold the crankshaft in place. Under no circumstances is the crankshaft holding tool to be used as a means to hold the crankshaft whilst removing the front pulley bolt.
Use a section of the serpentine belt wrapped around the front pulley with a chain spanner to loosen the front crankshaft bolt.
The engine is to be rotated in a clock direction only when viewed from the front of the vehicle. Rotating the engine in an anti-clock direction results in damage to the main and rod bearing shells.
Be sure the VVT units are installed in the correct position or the cam timing will be wrong.
You also need a puller to remove the front crankshaft pulley.
Thanks
yes I have the crank holder tool $100, the crank pin stop. A crank dampener jag puller tool. And the timing tools. Plus a 3/4" breaker bar and a 3/4" 24mm shallow socket. I read about the clockwise turning of the crank. Will the shallow socket work? I believe the radiator does not have to be removed on the s type correct? One question:
when rotating the engine clockwise until the front cams are flat across on both banks then the engine should then be at TDC then should be able to insert the crank lock tool and install both of the camshaft tools. This should also be top dead center. Yes? Thanks for the pointers. Has anyone else used Christopher's Jag kit? He is out of NJ and I believe formerly had a Jag shop. He specializes in this kit for this issue. I have purchased his kit and he is quite helpful via phone and email
when rotating the engine clockwise until the front cams are flat across on both banks then the engine should then be at TDC then should be able to insert the crank lock tool and install both of the camshaft tools. This should also be top dead center. Yes?
The engine is NOT timed at TDC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pay particular attention to the section at the top of page 74, page 26 in the course, regarding the correct camshaft timing.
And don't pay any attention to the hand written notes on the pages. I should have used 'white-out' before I had my student guide copied to .pdf but it was only on paper when I got it attending the course. No .pdf available 'back-in-the-day'.
Hi there. So my Turkey Day Weekend has completed. My Nephew came down from Sacto. on Friday and we wrenched until 2:00am. Sat.
I'll include "gotcha's along the way". As well as difficult areas. There are many how to write ups on this job. So, hope some successes and problems I ran into will help others.
1. 6 hours last Sunday was my first start tearing down the valve covers and accessories. Draining radiator. (note: drain the oil too and remove the oil cooler and filter which block the Harmonic Balance from sliding off However, remove this oil cooler after clearing out all the other accessories. I pulled it much later in the process. During the Harmonic Balancer Removal. Make a note to purchase the O rings to reinstall the oil cooler filter unit to the block. I did not see this anywhere in the directions anything indicating to remove the oil cooler. The coolant pipe totally blocks the balancer from sliding off.
2. 24 hours: John and Rex for 12 hours each. Tore it down to the block. All the front stuff off. Began installation of new chains, tensioners, guides etc. Installed new cut style VVT seals 2 on each. New Harmonic Balance O Ring. (note: have a good power steering pulley puller to remove the pulley. You cannot get to the top forward bolt at all on the power steering pump to remove it.) I have a cracked VVT solenoid electrical connector at the top, which protrudes through the valve cover. So, I'll replace both of them.
3. 8 hours:
A. Myself on Sunday. A bit of re-work. All chains and stuff torqued. Found two VVT Carrier to block rubber o rings. Called up Chris at ChristophersForeignCarParts.com I purchased his full kit. He answered the phone and consulted with me. Several times now. Although I removed the psgr. side VVT unit primary chains and secondary chains looking for where these went, I could not find any place for an O ring the size of a dime. Well they do not go behind the chains! Or the VVT units. These two little O rings must have fallen off the VVT Carrier when I removed it or there was not one. On my block and VVT carrier there is no indentation for an o ring where the oil passes from the block to the VVT carrier. I read somewhere to put Vaseline on the O ring to hold it in place. Now I know why. It is just two flat surfaces. If your old O ring falls off you may not know where it goes. So, I torqued the timing chains twice. Much faster the second time around.
4. Tool tips:
A. I purchased the crank tool holder and the Harmonic Balancer puller on Ebay. ~$100. These worked great. To hold the crank tool in place I cut a 2" wooden dowel about 14" long. This then went down on the passenger side between the Alternator which was still on and stopped against the front torsion bar which is bolted to the frame. The holder tool was at about 10:00am as your looking from the front of the car. It did not budge. I did not want to break all the electrical stuff on the passenger side with this monster holder. Then I applied a 1/2" breaker bar with socket and a 24" pipe on top. The lock tight on the crank bolt put up a fight until the last 1/2" of threads. I could only get 1/3 of a turn at at time from 2:00pm to 10:00AM while unscrewing this bolt. Be sure to keep tools square and all the way on. I slipped once which put a slight round on one corner of the bolt. I'm using a 6 point 3/4" drive socket adapted to the 24" x 1/2" breaker bar. You will only have 3" or so from the bolt to the fan shroud which is still in the car and will stay it appears.
B. 1/4" drive tools with various length adapters will help, especially for the valve covers. I use both angle extensions, swivel, 1/4", 3/8" drive for bigger stuff. I also use swivel head "GearWrench" wrenches. They can get into impossible places. But you can also back yourself into a corner with these. Be careful that you can remove the wrench. Also use 1/4" drive mini ratchets.
C. Purchased the red box $49.99 tool kit on Ebay. Same parts as in the black box for 89.99. At least they look identical. The BAD: The CPS lock tool would not fit into the flywheel, until the zinc coating was filed off. On the 2001 S type the hole is kind of rounded at the top, two chamfers on the sides like on an A frame house, and flat on the bottom. The gold looking one in the box. I filed off the zinc coating, it then fit perfectly. To get it to slide in my buddy and I went around 2-3 times to ensure what we were looking at. There are rectangles of different sizes every 1" all the way around. Except the Triangle mentioned. When the passenger and drivers side cams come up to flat where you can put on the locking tools you will be at TDC or What ever this is called. Really 30-40 degrees off of the technical TDC, I hear from fellow forum members. So we went around again but slow as the cams became flat. Me below and my Nephew turning the crank bolt. We stopped, filed the zinc coating off. Tried again. I gave the breaker bar a wiggle, not really moving it, and the tool slide in. Just to check I pulled the #1 plug on the passenger side and the piston was right at the top. Sounds right. Yea!
D. The cam holder with the two rivets on it.: This was junk. Way too small to oppose 90 foot pounds required to torque the cam sprockets. The rivet hole was drilled too close to the curved edge. Not set fully. The tool cracked on the first try. I made a new one copying the distance between the two bolts which go into the gear. Cut out the rounded section with a jig saw. I used 1/4" thick steel x 1 1/8"w x 12" L flat bar. Drilled holes in it, put in grade 8 bolts, with two nuts, then cut them off leaving the smooth section about 3/4" long. However make the length 3 times as long as the ones I got in the red box which were 1/4" long. Photos to follow.
E. The VVT retarding tool. The round one with the tiny pegs. Many folks break this. I now know why. The vvt units will likely be retarded as you have parked the car. Nothing advancing. So to test it insert the tool, locate the holes, press aft another 1/4". Now your bottomed out. Go gently and turn the tool clockwise. It only travels about 1/3 of a turn. No more. Then turn it back counter clockwise for the tightening sequence until it stops. Now you should be fully retarded. So to speak. I redrilled my broken tool and epoxied in two drill bits and cut them off. Works fine. This was user error on this tool. However, the tool was defective to begin with as with the zinc coating on it would not fit into the VVT. At all!. I ground it down about 1/32" all the way around. Completing test fits until it would go all the way in. So, buy a better tool than the cheap red boxes. Maybe the black boxes for 89.99 will fit properly. I have no idea but they look identical aside from the case.
F Other tools: Used a 1/4" torque wrench as most bolts are 10MM. Converted foot pounds to inch pounds. 3/4" drive 300 FT LB torque wrench for the crank bolt. Air Compressor and 3/8" air ratchet Speeds removal of Timing cover bolts and a few things but is not necessary. Jack stands, HD floor jack, car ramps, oil dump pan to catch antifreeze as well as oil, recycle containers for the waste of course. Then off to Haz Mat for disposal. LIGHT is critical. Have very good light and a headlamp LED. I did much of the initial work in the drive way but have moved into the garage for remainder.
5. Cleaned and de-greased the timing cover using engine de-greaser and a paint brush. Let it soak a bit, not too long. 20 min does it. Then rinse. Removed old Crankshaft seal. Pressed in a new one with a Seal Press Tool.
6. Cleaned head to valve cover mating surfaces. Cleaned block to timing cover surfaces. Use Denatured Alcohol and rags.
Question Below: and comments.
7. New Water pump came with a metal gasket, in between the spacer and the pump. I have read from others that it leaked. I split mine. Added RTV Black on both sides of the metal gasket, assembled, snugged up just over hand tight until a good squish was seen all around. Let it cure for about 45 minutes. Then torqued it up. I also have a metal gasket which came with this pump. To mount to the block. However I have purchased the O ring which goes around the pump before it goes into the block. Do I use both the metal gasket, and the O ring. Or just the O ring. I'm thinking just the O ring and RTV all around.
8. I started this project on car ramps which gets the car up and you can get under it for access. I removed all of the under engine covers and the air dam lower valance. This is required to get to the AC pump, Power steering pump and the Alternator. Note: Leave the care in N. and disconnect the battery once up on ramps. Chock rear wheels front and back. I had to move it and had a problem later as it started pouring rain. You cannot get it into N once the battery is disconnected. I re connected the battery to get it into N. Then disconnected the battery. Hoping this is not a problem later.
8. Confident that I have torqued everything by checking it twice, I removed the Cam locks, and the CPS lock. Reinstalled the CPS and plugged it in. Lowered car an rolled it into the garage.
Update later in the week. Waiting for more parts. Hoping to post pictures to go with this narrative.
Regarding #7 do not use the o ring. Use the metal gasket, no RTV. O ring is only used on the OEM water pumps. The ones that now contain the metal gasket are updated.
Regarding #7 do not use the o ring. Use the metal gasket, no RTV. O ring is only used on the OEM water pumps. The ones that now contain the metal gasket are updated.
I find it easier to work in that area of the X200 with the fan shroud assembly removed.
Also a good time to check the condition of the DCCV and auxiliary pump since access is easier.
Replace the thermostat and water outlet with a Jaguar thermostat. I haven't had much success using aftermarket thermostats.
thanks. I have the metal thermostat housing replacing the plastic one. I’ll toss in an own thermostat. I replaced the octopus dccv valve and the water circ pump recently.
Use screw hose clamps or reuse spring clamps. how to to post pic
I found the own spring clamps tend to leak or seep. With completing this timing chain jod there is an opportunity to replace with Stainless steel screw clamps. Recommendations?
Also so it it correct to use two dime sized o rings on the vvt carrier. One for each. There is no indentation for it. Both the vvt carrier and the block are flat. I used vasolaine to holld it centered and carefully installed the vvt carrier and set the torque to 90 ft lbs.
how do I post pictures? I have tried previously unsuccessfully. What is the Joel size limit?
Do not use screw/worm type hose clamps on any of the hoses that connect to plastic fittings as the plastic will eventually fail. The OEM constant-tension clamps allow for expansion and contraction with temperature changes.
Hi there. So my Turkey Day Weekend has completed. My Nephew came down from Sacto. on Friday and we wrenched until 2:00am. Sat.
I'll include "gotcha's along the way". As well as difficult areas. There are many how to write ups on this job. So, hope some successes and problems I ran into will help others.
1. 6 hours last Sunday was my first start tearing down the valve covers and accessories. Draining radiator. (note: drain the oil too and remove the oil cooler and filter which block the Harmonic Balance from sliding off However, remove this oil cooler after clearing out all the other accessories. I pulled it much later in the process. During the Harmonic Balancer Removal. Make a note to purchase the O rings to reinstall the oil cooler filter unit to the block. I did not see this anywhere in the directions anything indicating to remove the oil cooler. The coolant pipe totally blocks the balancer from sliding off.
2. 24 hours: John and Rex for 12 hours each. Tore it down to the block. All the front stuff off. Began installation of new chains, tensioners, guides etc. Installed new cut style VVT seals 2 on each. New Harmonic Balance O Ring. (note: have a good power steering pulley puller to remove the pulley. You cannot get to the top forward bolt at all on the power steering pump to remove it.) I have a cracked VVT solenoid electrical connector at the top, which protrudes through the valve cover. So, I'll replace both of them.
3. 8 hours:
A. Myself on Sunday. A bit of re-work. All chains and stuff torqued. Found two VVT Carrier to block rubber o rings. Called up Chris at ChristophersForeignCarParts.com I purchased his full kit. He answered the phone and consulted with me. Several times now. Although I removed the psgr. side VVT unit primary chains and secondary chains looking for where these went, I could not find any place for an O ring the size of a dime. Well they do not go behind the chains! Or the VVT units. These two little O rings must have fallen off the VVT Carrier when I removed it or there was not one. On my block and VVT carrier there is no indentation for an o ring where the oil passes from the block to the VVT carrier. I read somewhere to put Vaseline on the O ring to hold it in place. Now I know why. It is just two flat surfaces. If your old O ring falls off you may not know where it goes. So, I torqued the timing chains twice. Much faster the second time around.
4. Tool tips:
A. I purchased the crank tool holder and the Harmonic Balancer puller on Ebay. ~$100. These worked great. To hold the crank tool in place I cut a 2" wooden dowel about 14" long. This then went down on the passenger side between the Alternator which was still on and stopped against the front torsion bar which is bolted to the frame. The holder tool was at about 10:00am as your looking from the front of the car. It did not budge. I did not want to break all the electrical stuff on the passenger side with this monster holder. Then I applied a 1/2" breaker bar with socket and a 24" pipe on top. The lock tight on the crank bolt put up a fight until the last 1/2" of threads. I could only get 1/3 of a turn at at time from 2:00pm to 10:00AM while unscrewing this bolt. Be sure to keep tools square and all the way on. I slipped once which put a slight round on one corner of the bolt. I'm using a 6 point 3/4" drive socket adapted to the 24" x 1/2" breaker bar. You will only have 3" or so from the bolt to the fan shroud which is still in the car and will stay it appears.
B. 1/4" drive tools with various length adapters will help, especially for the valve covers. I use both angle extensions, swivel, 1/4", 3/8" drive for bigger stuff. I also use swivel head "GearWrench" wrenches. They can get into impossible places. But you can also back yourself into a corner with these. Be careful that you can remove the wrench. Also use 1/4" drive mini ratchets.
C. Purchased the red box $49.99 tool kit on Ebay. Same parts as in the black box for 89.99. At least they look identical. The BAD: The CPS lock tool would not fit into the flywheel, until the zinc coating was filed off. On the 2001 S type the hole is kind of rounded at the top, two chamfers on the sides like on an A frame house, and flat on the bottom. The gold looking one in the box. I filed off the zinc coating, it then fit perfectly. To get it to slide in my buddy and I went around 2-3 times to ensure what we were looking at. There are rectangles of different sizes every 1" all the way around. Except the Triangle mentioned. When the passenger and drivers side cams come up to flat where you can put on the locking tools you will be at TDC or What ever this is called. Really 30-40 degrees off of the technical TDC, I hear from fellow forum members. So we went around again but slow as the cams became flat. Me below and my Nephew turning the crank bolt. We stopped, filed the zinc coating off. Tried again. I gave the breaker bar a wiggle, not really moving it, and the tool slide in. Just to check I pulled the #1 plug on the passenger side and the piston was right at the top. Sounds right. Yea!
D. The cam holder with the two rivets on it.: This was junk. Way too small to oppose 90 foot pounds required to torque the cam sprockets. The rivet hole was drilled too close to the curved edge. Not set fully. The tool cracked on the first try. I made a new one copying the distance between the two bolts which go into the gear. Cut out the rounded section with a jig saw. I used 1/4" thick steel x 1 1/8"w x 12" L flat bar. Drilled holes in it, put in grade 8 bolts, with two nuts, then cut them off leaving the smooth section about 3/4" long. However make the length 3 times as long as the ones I got in the red box which were 1/4" long. Photos to follow.
E. The VVT retarding tool. The round one with the tiny pegs. Many folks break this. I now know why. The vvt units will likely be retarded as you have parked the car. Nothing advancing. So to test it insert the tool, locate the holes, press aft another 1/4". Now your bottomed out. Go gently and turn the tool clockwise. It only travels about 1/3 of a turn. No more. Then turn it back counter clockwise for the tightening sequence until it stops. Now you should be fully retarded. So to speak. I redrilled my broken tool and epoxied in two drill bits and cut them off. Works fine. This was user error on this tool. However, the tool was defective to begin with as with the zinc coating on it would not fit into the VVT. At all!. I ground it down about 1/32" all the way around. Completing test fits until it would go all the way in. So, buy a better tool than the cheap red boxes. Maybe the black boxes for 89.99 will fit properly. I have no idea but they look identical aside from the case.
F Other tools: Used a 1/4" torque wrench as most bolts are 10MM. Converted foot pounds to inch pounds. 3/4" drive 300 FT LB torque wrench for the crank bolt. Air Compressor and 3/8" air ratchet Speeds removal of Timing cover bolts and a few things but is not necessary. Jack stands, HD floor jack, car ramps, oil dump pan to catch antifreeze as well as oil, recycle containers for the waste of course. Then off to Haz Mat for disposal. LIGHT is critical. Have very good light and a headlamp LED. I did much of the initial work in the drive way but have moved into the garage for remainder.
5. Cleaned and de-greased the timing cover using engine de-greaser and a paint brush. Let it soak a bit, not too long. 20 min does it. Then rinse. Removed old Crankshaft seal. Pressed in a new one with a Seal Press Tool.
6. Cleaned head to valve cover mating surfaces. Cleaned block to timing cover surfaces. Use Denatured Alcohol and rags.
Question Below: and comments.
7. New Water pump came with a metal gasket, in between the spacer and the pump. I have read from others that it leaked. I split mine. Added RTV Black on both sides of the metal gasket, assembled, snugged up just over hand tight until a good squish was seen all around. Let it cure for about 45 minutes. Then torqued it up. I also have a metal gasket which came with this pump. To mount to the block. However I have purchased the O ring which goes around the pump before it goes into the block. Do I use both the metal gasket, and the O ring. Or just the O ring. I'm thinking just the O ring and RTV all around.
8. I started this project on car ramps which gets the car up and you can get under it for access. I removed all of the under engine covers and the air dam lower valance. This is required to get to the AC pump, Power steering pump and the Alternator. Note: Leave the care in N. and disconnect the battery once up on ramps. Chock rear wheels front and back. I had to move it and had a problem later as it started pouring rain. You cannot get it into N once the battery is disconnected. I re connected the battery to get it into N. Then disconnected the battery. Hoping this is not a problem later.
8. Confident that I have torqued everything by checking it twice, I removed the Cam locks, and the CPS lock. Reinstalled the CPS and plugged it in. Lowered car an rolled it into the garage.
Update later in the week. Waiting for more parts. Hoping to post pictures to go with this narrative.
John
9. Update: another weekend. 10 hrs sat and Sunday. Total time estimated 52 hours. Turned the key. And she turned over no start. Sounded like lack of fuel. Then got Engine Fail safe mode on dash. oMG. I think I blew the timing. Pulled codes and got a Pxxxx fuel management malfunction. I sat in the drivers seat thinking what it could be. Code said fuel system , so went under hood and looked at the throttle body. One giant plug was the only one undone. I pushed it in with both thumbs and it went “click”, as it was only partially plugged in. Tried to start. No go. Cleared the codes. Tried again and this Kitty fired up back to one of her lives!!! Purring like a kitten. I was ecstatic.
10. I’ve had a no heater issue. Replaced dccv and the circulation pump. Exhausted I took it to my Independant Jag Mb shop. To my surprise cause was a sticking thermostat. Replaced. Wife has heat now I get my MB ML550 back. All happy. They checked the timing on the machine for intake and exhaust lift and duration and he said it was dot on. One tooth off he said could be up to 20 degrees. It was worth the $360 to hear this great confirmation news and fix the heater. Yes this was the alum aftermarket housing and thermostat. I was going to replace it but thought nothing was wrong with it so did not. Thanks for that tip. I’ll use own or quality thermostat in the future.
11 post install tips.
A. Torquing the timing chains: Buy the best or rent a professional timing tool kit. The exhaust sprocket holding tool about 6” long with the red handle does not have enough beef for the job. eBay refunded my money. I made one out of heave steel. Two grade 8 bolts 5/16” and nuts. And a drill and a jig saw. Run a nut down to where the threads stop. Insert the threaded end into your steel bar. And second nut and tighten. Cut off the hex end of the bolt leaving 3/4” longer smooth part of the bolt shaft than the tiny tool. Add a 3’ cheater bar by bolting it to the steel flat stock. I used a piece if 1”x3”x2’ hardwood. Now you have an opposing tool to offset the 24” torque wrench to tighten the cam sprockets. Two people would be better.
1st torque the smaller exhaust sprocket. Now onto the vvt intake sprocket the big one. Then make sure the vvt inside gear is retarded. This is done with the round tool which I originally broke as many do. The reason is that the cam gear on the vvt is already retarded. So insert tool and first turn clockwise. Gently. You can feel the inner gear moving with some friction. It will only advance or turn 1/3 of a turn. Ok you got the feel of it. Now retard it back fully counterclockwise. Now your ready to torque the vvt intake sprocket. Hold it by using your monster tool on the same exhaust sprocket. As you begin torquing watch the exhaust and vvt sprocket and make sure they do not move. If in doubt do it over. I did mine three times between tool breakage and a redo. Make sure when torquing to 90 ft lbs that the exhaust smaller sprocket which your holding counterclockwise does not move.
B. Crank bolt: so I’ve bought all the right stuff. Installed new front main seal. Pressed it in with a bit of soap for a lube. It will dry out. Do not use oil to lube the seal most say to ours it in dry. I eased a HF seal tool kit. About $10. Fit perfectly. Drive it in carefully and slowly. Don’t over drive it or it goes too far. It should be right at the edge of the chamfer on both sides. Install a new o ring seal on the inside of the harmonic balancer. Mine was hard and brittle at 53k miles. Lube the lip seal and o ring with vasoline. Don’t forget the tapered cone. I put some gasoline put on the crank also. Ok the fun part. I had not removed my fan assembly. DO this in the beginning. I worked around this stupid thing. You can get it out in 45 min 2 8 mm up top. Unplug everything, two clips on the bottom. Engine shrouds off. most wires stay on the fan housing. A large plug on the drivers side unplugs the whole thing from the car. Plus a few others. Why remove the fan now. Well because I barely got the crank bolt out. Now to put the crank bolt in the 300 foot lb torque wrench 3/4” drive would not fit!!! There is more. So the cam bars are off, the cps tool holder is out and the original put back in. I gently slide on the crank damper with the 20 lb tool attached. Rest the holder against the drivers side frame with a wooden bolck. Without the block you will crush your brake lines next to the frame. I hand threaded the new crank bolt in which has a band of dried red lock tight in it. A factory bolt. The bolt hits the red stuff and the engine starts to turn over. I don’t have the bolt up to the dampener yet. Remove bolt inspect. It’s fine add replacement Rex permeated locktight to only the same section. Get impact gun on it. By the way had you removed the fan two weeks ago a had 800-900 ft lb impact gun and a large air capacity would have spun the old bolt off. Vs it took me 1/3 of a turn and an hour to get it off. It will fight all the way off. Back to on. The impact gun drive the damper up th the crank. I set the torque wrench to 100, then 150, 200, 300. Added 3’ cheater bar to my 3’ torque wrench. And verified each click. This way I knew how much was going on. Stopped at about 300 plus a tad.
C. Tools I could not have gotten out the power steering pump without a 10 mm greatwrench ratchet swivel head. An open end will strip it. A box might fit but will take two days to get it out. All 4 bolts are threaded 3” in. You can only get 1/4 turn on it. Unless you disconnected the ps hydraulic lines at the pump. I did not. This bolt is the bottom bolt of 4 on the pump closest to front of car. The bolt cannot be removed as the os line is right in front of it.
D. Use a 3/8” drive air impact to speed up valve cover and timing cover removal. I found by putting on an assortment of extensions swivels and deep 10 mm the valve covers came off more quickly. Back on also but after hand starting all bolts. Then torque with 1/4” inch drive torque wrench. Valve covers. BE Sure to mark studs vs bolts. Otherwise the brackets will not go back on for the Jag Engine cover.
E. Jack stands: I left the car up on about 12” tall HD jack stands. Back on the frame near the doors. This facilitated getting under car for AC comp removal, the only way. And to access some of the ps bolts and alt bolts from under the car.
F. The oil cooler filter assembly prevented my harmonic pulley from being removed. So buy the figure 8 o ring to put it back on
G. Vvt to block o rings. I almost forgot these. I called Christopers Foreign Car Parts. He said they are in the kit and go between the vvt units and the block. Kind of. They go between the vvt holders and the block. Mine fell off and I did not see them. There are three bolts which hold the vvt holder to the block. But next to one bolt hole is another hole in the vvt holder with a slight boss indent in the holder. This matches up with a hole in the block Put the o ring here with some vasoline to make it stick. This tiny o ring seals the holder to the block for the oil pressure which operates the vvt units. So very impirtant. Chris was very helpful and answers the phone.
Goid luck should you you do this. I had each section of the instruction tabbed in a three ring notebook for easy reference. It helped a lot. Follow the book!!
Hope this helps another.
John B
Last edited by JohnBJag; 12-03-2018 at 10:37 PM.
Reason: Adding more commentary
2001 4.0 time to do the full timing replacement. with photos
Originally Posted by JohnBJag
Photo 4.0 2001 full timing chain replacement the old.
The work table helped to keep parts organized to the driver and passenger side.
Below you can see the cracks in the runners.
Below cracks started in the tensioner. At 53K miles.
Below the Passenger side lock down is on. The CPS lock down is also on. The tensioner is being removed.
Below a shot before the VVT units and the old chains were removed. I did not remove the fan shroud. But do so in the beginning. Later I had to as I could not fit the 300 Foot Pound torque wrench in.
Below I tore down the passenger side first. Both lock bars are on and the CPS lock is on before anything was taken off.
Below is the drivers side lock down bar.
Below is the drivers side lock down bar.
Last edited by JohnBJag; 12-07-2018 at 10:26 PM.
Reason: Add photos, add comment.
Well I have uploaded some photos. First time I have been successful at this. I'll try to get them into order. With a few re-does on torquing the chains I have successfully completed this job. And I'm a finance guy! I'm so excited that it fired right up. Purrs like it should. No chain noise. Now I can move onto the headliner and not worry that the engine will blow up at any time. 53K miles. Total time 52 hours. I had trouble with the sprocket tool and made one. Also repaired the VVT retarding tool after I broke it. See details in the write up. Hope this helps another.
John
Last edited by JohnBJag; 12-07-2018 at 10:38 PM.
Reason: Add photos, add comment.
And don't pay any attention to the hand written notes on the pages. I should have used 'white-out' before I had my student guide copied to .pdf but it was only on paper when I got it attending the course. No .pdf available 'back-in-the-day'.
bob
I am getting the secondary tensioners changed on my '01 4.0 S Type. Noticed that the replacement tensioners will require shorter bolts. Also, the chain is looser along the guide at the top of the new replacement tensioner as opposed to the old cracked plastic tensioner. Thoughts about this?
Help
11-01-2018, 09:21 PM
2001 S 4.0 full timing chain replacement
