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2005 S-Type "Gearbox Fault"

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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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Default 2005 S-Type "Gearbox Fault"

Hello everyone..new to the forum. I seen multiple post on the "gearbox fault" issues with s types and thought I'd post mine and see if I could get some help.

When I bought the car (not too long ago) it ran perfectly fine and all and recently I got several (3) gearbox fault messages at different times/days. On the last two the car went into "safe mode" were I couldn't go past 20-30mph. When the gearbox fault message doesn't show up the car drives fine except sometimes when I'm on the highway going about a constant 60mph the car seems to rev up and down a little bit as I'm driving and the RPM gauge moves a bit up and down as well for about 30-50 seconds then drives normal, but I'm not sure if it's due to a Fuel Pump System Fault message I also received once and only once, if I could get some help with that as well please.

I've seen some posts were some folks had the issue and it was due to batteries, wires, filters, & other stuff. I'm not sure...but I'm thinking about taking it into a shop to see if they can pinpoint the problem(s) and hopefully repair them.

If you need more details please ask me.

2005 Jaguar S-Type
4.2L V8
87,470 Miles


Also do you think I got a good deal on the car?
I paid $10K for it with 86,xxx miles don't remember the exact mileage but I haven't driven it for more than 700 miles. The car is in very good shape from the exterior to the interior. Included in those $10K were all the fees, taxes, & brand new licenses plates/tabs.

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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I've never had a fault code, but my transmission used to do the fluctuating RPM thing between 1600-1900 RPM when it was cold for a couple miles, then act normal once it warmed up a bit. It didn't matter if I was in sport or comfort mode. For me, it would be around 45 MPH when it went into 5th gear; but it would also do it in 4th in the same RPM range (I'd assume it would in 6th as well, but I never hit 6th on my drives to work), but not in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears. I spoke to a transmission shop and they told me it was "normal torque converter lockup" and not to worry about it. It didn't seem normal to me, so I changed the fluid and filter, but it had no effect. Fortunately, the car has the adaptive transmission feature, and after driving it quite hard for a few outings (after the fluids had warmed up, of course), my STR is no longer exhibiting those strange fluctuations as it has adapted to a more spirited type of driving. I have therefore concluded that the RPM fluctuation issue is a programming issue and I would normally recommend either having the transmission adapt to a more aggressive style or find a shop (likely dealer) to do a TCM reflash/reprogram. In your case, however, I would definitely find out what the fault codes are for before risking damaging anything else.

As far as what type of deal you got, I would say average, but its all relative. If you like the car and think it was worth it, then you got a good deal.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2013 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by QuartzSTypeR
I've never had a fault code, but my transmission used to do the fluctuating RPM thing between 1600-1900 RPM when it was cold for a couple miles, then act normal once it warmed up a bit. It didn't matter if I was in sport or comfort mode. For me, it would be around 45 MPH when it went into 5th gear; but it would also do it in 4th in the same RPM range (I'd assume it would in 6th as well, but I never hit 6th on my drives to work), but not in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears. I spoke to a transmission shop and they told me it was "normal torque converter lockup" and not to worry about it. It didn't seem normal to me, so I changed the fluid and filter, but it had no effect. Fortunately, the car has the adaptive transmission feature, and after driving it quite hard for a few outings (after the fluids had warmed up, of course), my STR is no longer exhibiting those strange fluctuations as it has adapted to a more spirited type of driving. I have therefore concluded that the RPM fluctuation issue is a programming issue and I would normally recommend either having the transmission adapt to a more aggressive style or find a shop (likely dealer) to do a TCM reflash/reprogram. In your case, however, I would definitely find out what the fault codes are for before risking damaging anything else.

As far as what type of deal you got, I would say average, but its all relative. If you like the car and think it was worth it, then you got a good deal.

The days the RPM was fluctuating (also in the 1600-1900 range) it was fairly cold outside and I could say I didn't let the vehicle warm up. I'm going to defiantly take it to get the codes read and see what the issues are..hopefully nothing serious. Also do the fault messages have to be showing in order for a shop to scan the codes ? I'm not sure as the S-Type was actually my first vehicle purchase.
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 03:50 AM
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Could it be a failing battery? (How old is it?) Spurious messages are common in that case even though it will start the car.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
Could it be a failing battery? (How old is it?) Spurious messages are common in that case even though it will start the car.
Possibly, going to purchase a new battery today and see if it resolves the issues, what brand/model do you fellas recommend ?
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 08:00 AM
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Long-time S-Type owners will always recommend that you start with the battery. As mentioned above, weak or dying batteries cause many issues with these cars, including transmission faults....

Pep Boys is selling their Bosch batteries for $30 off the list price through tomorrow, December 1st. I replaced the factory battery in my wife's 2006 XK8 with a Bosch in September 2012 and it continues to perform flawlessly....
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Jon89
Long-time S-Type owners will always recommend that you start with the battery. As mentioned above, weak or dying batteries cause many issues with these cars, including transmission faults....

Pep Boys is selling their Bosch batteries for $30 off the list price through tomorrow, December 1st. I replaced the factory battery in my wife's 2006 XK8 with a Bosch in September 2012 and it continues to perform flawlessly....
The nearest pep boys near me is about a 2 hr drive. Any other places you might know that carry Bosch brand batteries? Will try to find a good quality battery and post if it resolved my issues (hopefully).
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by QuartzSTypeR
I've never had a fault code, but my transmission used to do the fluctuating RPM thing between 1600-1900 RPM when it was cold for a couple miles, then act normal once it warmed up a bit. It didn't matter if I was in sport or comfort mode. For me, it would be around 45 MPH when it went into 5th gear; but it would also do it in 4th in the same RPM range (I'd assume it would in 6th as well, but I never hit 6th on my drives to work), but not in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears. I spoke to a transmission shop and they told me it was "normal torque converter lockup" and not to worry about it. It didn't seem normal to me, so I changed the fluid and filter, but it had no effect. Fortunately, the car has the adaptive transmission feature, and after driving it quite hard for a few outings (after the fluids had warmed up, of course), my STR is no longer exhibiting those strange fluctuations as it has adapted to a more spirited type of driving. I have therefore concluded that the RPM fluctuation issue is a programming issue and I would normally recommend either having the transmission adapt to a more aggressive style or find a shop (likely dealer) to do a TCM reflash/reprogram. In your case, however, I would definitely find out what the fault codes are for before risking damaging anything else.

As far as what type of deal you got, I would say average, but its all relative. If you like the car and think it was worth it, then you got a good deal.
This is an oft-discussed issue with an identified fix

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...estion-106052/
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey
This is an oft-discussed issue with an identified fix

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...estion-106052/
I figured as much, but I get tired or sifting through all the transmission threads and the car no longer exhibits the problem so I thought I'd post my experience.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:36 PM
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Well fellas came back with bad news, purchased a new battery ($180 ) and it didn't resolve the issues and created a very small problem while switching out the batteries. The little hose that's connected to the battery had a small 90 degree angled plastic thing that was connected to the side of the battery and the other end to the small hose, broke and is now a small piece is stuck inside the small port on the side of the battery. Can someone please tell me what that small 90 degree plastic piece is called so I can go out tomorrow and purchase one?

Also as I was swapping out the batteries I noticed their was a connector that wasn't connected to anything...right on top of the battery, I'm not sure if that's supposed to be connected somewhere or not..hopefully someone knows. Will provide an image tomorrow as well.
Thanks
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:44 PM
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The small 90 degree plastic connecter that goes on that hose.

 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 10:05 PM
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I had the same problem when I replaced my battery. The auto parts store had some plastic hose connectors that worked for me.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
Could it be a failing battery? (How old is it?) Spurious messages are common in that case even though it will start the car.
I suggest looking at the battery first too. If the alternator is starting to fail, it won't supply enough power and you could be running on the battery sometime that may be weakened. Those are the two areas I would put the most focus on initially.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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Battery vent hose / connector, I guess.
Make sure that connector cannot short to anything but it should be unused.
 
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