Haha, no.

If you notice I stay out of every thread that says you have to drive these vehicles x many mies daily to keep battery charged and blah blah. Joyces daily commute is so close to our home, by the time she pulls I to parking lot, the heat is barely warm or the AC has just cooled the cabin. We have never expected a problem in 9 years of ownership!

My mileage sig is the mileage at which the oil has been changed. It serves as a reminder to me and nothing else.

 

 

Interesting, I wasn't aware of this being a common problem.

Just curious, by "freezing" do you mean literally as in moisture turning into ice? Or in a more generic sense of just mechanically sticking, with perhaps the contacts welding themselves shut?

If literal ice, I'd be kind of surprised. This thread talks about normal temperatures for those relays:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-r-s-c-187819/


In that example, I measured 125F for an energized relay on a 75F day. No idea what you'd see with ambient air below freezing, but I'd bet the relays would still be warm enough to dry out any moisture that had collected.

FWIW, I've always wondered why Jaguar (and other manufacturers) didn't use hermetically sealed relays. You get a huge reliability increase for only a small increase in price.

 

Perhaps Karl, and I am only guessing (albeit from a former life in medical electronics) that, by the time hermetic sealing was readily and cheaply available, solid state digital switching made the old technology of relays redundant.

I know I am banging an old drum, but for mine, the bigger and really poorly understood change was the switch (hey, great pun) from supply switching to ground potential switching. The nature of modern, silicon based switching junctions is that with these devices, whether controlled by humans pushing buttons or PCUs doing so according to their designed logic, even large voltages and/or currents can be switched with minimal internal power dissipation. The fact that all these benefits can be achieved while saving wiring, weight, money and hugely increasing reliability . . . had auto bean counters wetting themselves in delight.

So, advice to Erik . . . sounds like you came to Jaguar ownership (none of mine have Ford badges; nor the later ones suggest TATA) with some heavy preconceptions and many sound misplaced . . . the irrelevance of your comment about Lucas is but one example, but perhaps your intent was to be confrontational instead. If so a weird way to seek advice. Let us pass and turn to a more helpful path ahead.

Perhaps some serious research here will help you . . . any S-Type symptoms such as you describe always start with a careful check of the battery, its standing voltage, and its connections. Perhaps you might review the Battery 101 link in my sig as well as the myriad of other Stickies. Now I'm just repeating what JagV8 and others have said so wisely . . . and no amount of popcorn warrants that.

Cheers,

Ken

 

Not true.

It needs power - it's a motor - which definitely means current as well. This is generally true of all motors.

Again it's a motor. Same issues. Not Jaguar-specific at all.

Don't know to what you refer. Explain.

No-one except YOU has ever reported this.

Well you're basically wrong.