First question... no its a really easy job, I did it in less than 20 minutes in my bathrobe.

2ND question maybe....cross your fingers!

 

That is bad news.

I do not own a bathrobe. (I guess I better keep the shop door closed while I am working on it!)

 

could have spent that $75 on a nice robe

Could have, would have done it in the buff but it was a winter morning and the garage wasn't heated up enough yet.

 

I'm going to have to ask Joyce where she bought that "magic bathrobe"!!!


It took me exactly 2 hours from pulling out tools to test-drive, to tools cleaned and put away again.

It was not hard to do. Have to pull the wheel, brake caliper, and loosen up the back end of the wheel well skirt. Beyond that, four 15mm bolts, one wire clip and the plug socket hold the hub assembly on.

I stopped along the way to wash hands, take a few pics and reglove... So that added a little time to the process.

After about 0.1 mile test drive (and a bit of prayer) the ABS light went off and remained off.

What it cost me:

- Two hour RT drive to nearest shop that will work on a Jag.
- $73.25 for them to hook up their code reader which can dig down to the ABS codes and report the C1233 code.
- Time to call NAPA to confirm they could get the part (did this while at shop above)
- $186.60 including tax for part from NAPA
- Two hours install time...

What DIY saved me:

- The shop (above) could not get part and install until Thursday (48 hrs from now).
- Their parts and labor costs less diagnosis fee = $457.67
- Another two hour drive RT to have them install the wheel hub.
- Two hours while I sat in their shop waiting for them to install.

Total savings (not including time driving and waiting on shop):

- $271.07 is the total amount I saved by doing it myself. (I'll invest that in a better code reader that can read ABS, air bag and other sensors and modules.)

 

You've got more mechanical experience than many on here

Cool summary.

 

My ABS/Traction control lights have come on too - i was reversing out of my driveway when it happened - it was a cold frosty morning. I've not had time to look at the problem as yet - i have checked the fuse which is ok and i've tried disconnecting the battery with the ignition on and touching the negative wire to the positive and leaving the battery disconnected for 20 minutes which is a way of clearing fault codes but that didn't work so anyone got any ideas where to look next?? I've also got a misfire, the plugs have been replaced and also 1 coilpack as the engine warning light came on - my code reader shows a fault with the air flow meter, I've seen an article which says you can clean the sensor with switch cleaner which i was going to do today but the srews holding it in place look to be anti-tamper - anyone got any ideas how to remove them??
Any help on either topic will be much appreciated

 

I have the DSC flashing symbol showing but no ABS error showing, when I click the DSC switch it does state DCS on/ or OFF, but the symbol flashes all the time, what would be the possible reason(s)? My jaguar is 2000 s-type 3.0 ltr.

 

sorry folks, i'm a newbie with an 05 s type owned since new but lots of stuff popping up that I keep remedying on my own. the abs warning has been on for 2 or 3 years but ignoring it. sometimes when backing, it goes off and then back on after a while driving normally. last few months the dsc unavailable appeared but car still driving ok. about 6 months ago, the park brake fault came on and when into limp. I bought a new battery and all has been well until last week when the car began going into limp again with park brake fail and engine systems warnings. the code 2135 points to throttle body (and could set off abs and dsc lights also, but as I said, those lights have been on for a long time. I looked at throttle body inside and it looks pretty clean but I wiped it out anyway with throttle body cleaner. I cleared the engine light and started the car. all lights were off for about 15 minutes, then the abs and dsc came back on. My question is....does it sound like I have two separate and non related issues? One with abs sensors and one with anything to do with throttle body or sensors there? I kind of think so, but now wondering if my spray down of throttle body cleaner may have sufficed to eliminate the limp mode activation, and I am left with the preexisting abs standalone problem? I know some will advise to professionally diagnose but the reason I have been driving with abs on for last 2 years is funding for professional repairs in the first place. I am considering buying a throttle body online for $400 and installing it myself but I am sort of leaning toward thinking the limp problem is some sort of electrical issue, not mechanical. any ideas? thanks

 

Apparently P2135 changed its meaning dramatically between model years (due to the PCM changing). Have a look at other threads about it to make sure which kind you have and whether the TSB applies.