Hi,

I have a 2003 S-type (non sat nav) and when using the AC, the drivers side blows hot but the passengers side blows cold?

I've tried to diagnose the issue myself but i would like some imput please.

- I've cleaned the interior temperature sensor, problem is still there.
- I've checked the 3 pin plug which connects from the Climate Control Module (CCM) to the Dual Climate Control Valve (DCCV) with a multimeter, pins 2 and pin 3 (passengers side AC) both have 14v in them, but pin 1 which controls the drivers side AC reads Zero!

I've read that if one of the connectors in the DCCV isn't receving any current then it will revert to the default mode, which is open (hot).

I checked higher up the wire which leads to pin 1, making sure there wasn't a break inside the connector but still it was reading zero!

could this mean either there's a break even higher up the cable?

or

is the Climate Control Module faulty?

I've attached an image of the DCCV showing where the 3 pin plug connects to.

many thanks in advanced.

 

OK, pin 2 should be at +12, for the air to be cold pins 1 and 3 need to be at 0V. From memory pin 3 is passenger side on UK cars, pin 1 is drivers side. If the wire going to either pins 1 or 3 is broken you will get hot on the affected side. In my car the wire had corroded away due to somebody in the past probing through the insulation. If you take the end cover off the dash board on the passenger side you will find a green connector. We are interested in pins 9,10 and 11. Pin 11 is yellow - this is the wire that goes to pin 2 on the dccv. Put the +ve of a DVM to this wire and then put the -ve of the dvm on to pin 9 (brown white or brown blue, can't remember which way round they are) Now adjust the ac on both sides from full cold to full hot. As the temperature setting goes above or below ambient you should see the signal change. If it does you know that the internal sensors and the control module are ok. Repeat the exercise with the -ve of the meter on pin 10, you should get the same result. If you see no voltage across pin 11 and either pin 9 or 10 you have a control box issue - most likely a burnt track in the control box. If your car has sat nav the control is built in to the electronics behind the switch panel, otherwise it's a seperate box behind the glove box. If your signals are switching ok then the problem is in either the big wiring loom that runs around the front of the car or the dccv valve itself.
Hope that helps.
PS remember that the dccv needs to see 0 Volts on pins 1 and 3 for both sides to be cold.

 

Sorry, just reread your post, I see your car is non sat nav so forget the bit about the module behind the glove box - your DCCV control signals come from the box with the LCD display on it.

 

Your DCCV has red stains on it. Replace it.

You most likely have damaged the climate control module because of the bad DCCV. You can repair it yourself or send it off to be repaired.

If you need a place to send it to post back. If you do pay to have it repaired be sure and spring for the circuit protection upgrade.

It looks like the module was not designed properly and the bad DCCV starts drawing too much current for too long it fries the CCM.
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Hi, yes my DCCV has red residue on it, sounds like that is knackered too then!

How could i fix it myself? if it needs replacing, i'm guessing its going to be expensive.

 

Thank you for this

Pin 1 (drivers side) was 0 volts
Pin 3 (passengers side) was 14

as i have the non sat nav version, is my module behind the glove box then?

thank you so much for your detailed reply

 

Yes the DCCV is replace only but with the Lincoln LS part it is less than what Jaguar will charge you. Check EBay and Amazon for the best price. Rock Auto might be worth a check too.

We are a bit lucky on the climate control module. When it gets fried you normally can see it on the circuit board. Then a simple wire jumper will fix it. A number of people on this forum have done the repair and posted very good instructions with pictures.

Maybe some searches on DCCV and climate control module will fill in the blanks more?

If it was me I would do the easy stuff first.

1. Replace the DCCV. You have red stains from the Dex-Cool. Nearly all DCCV's will fail eventually and with the age of our cars it is almost guaranteed to be bad.

2. See if the problem is still there. There is a wide range of time people have run bad DCCV's before the climate control module gets damaged. Sometimes it is still good but cannot operate the bad DCCV. But we do know the DCCV tends to draw more amps as it fails and this is what kills the module. So don't delay changing the DCCV!

But with what you have measured so far it looks like the module is damaged.

Yes you can have wire harness problems too. But that is much more rare and I would go to that after doing the above.
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I replaced mine on the S-Type back when I joined the site at the recommendation here using the LS part. Took care of it and been running smoothly ever since.

 

The control module is almost certainly blown. The reason you are seeing 14v on pin 3 is because the 12 v is getting to pin 2, the coil for the solonoid is not connected to anything and tyour DVM is high impedance so the resistance of the coil is not dropping the measured voltage. As you car does not have sat nav the controller is built in to the box with the LCD display it's called a CCM - climate control module. Cars with sat nav have the module behind the glove box, that version is called an RCCM - remote climate control module. As other posters have said your symptoms are commensurate with a DCCV going short and taking out a track on the CCM. Replace the DDCV first, check the system is properly bled, warm the engine, check to see if you still have the fault - I suspect you will but you will be half way to fixing it. If you search on here for CCM repair you should find all you need to know, shout again if you get stuck.

 

Thanks for the reply mate, i will replace the DCCV first, then if the problem is still there, i will replace the CCM.

As its very likely the CCM is gone, could that damage the new DCCV when fitted?

Luckily my car is non sat nav so like you say, the CCM is built in to the unit with the LCD and buttons, which can be picked up at a reasonable price on ebay

Now i'll search for a guide on how to swap the DCCV and bleed the system correctly

You guys are amazing!

 

No, a bad CCM won't damage a DCCV.

 

Replace the DCCV then check the voltages at the dash as per my first post. There is a chance the wiring could be at fault, no point spending money on a part you don't need for the sake of a 5 minute test. Best of luck, hope you get it sorted. Just for completeness a faulty CCM won't damage a DCCV but a faulty DCCV could damage the CCM.