Adding Bluetooth
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 643
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From: Essex UK
Hi guys,
I’m having disconnect/programming-loss issues. For no reason the loop appears to disconnect, and I lose audio/phone/CDC. The only way to regain functionality is to go into the hidden menu, re-select those options, and restart the car.
The problem started as soon as I completed the setup (I might have mentioned it above). I first thought it was a physical issue where the optical wires were not seated correctly or secured to the white tabs, so I checked everything and taped the wires together about an inch away from the tabs making sure the wires are always straight into the connectors. Everything worked ok for a drive or two but then it came back. So, that didn’t fix the problem.
One day the car didn’t start (it clicked and went dead). I jiggled the battery connectors and the car came back to life. I hadn’t tightened the battery connectors after I disconnected the battery to do the install, so the next time the car didn’t start I went ahead and tightened the connectors. That solved the car not starting but didn’t solve the loop disconnect issue, which has continued to happen. So those two don’t appear to be connected.
I thought it was a physical problem where the wires might be jiggling while driving and disconnecting the optical loop, but it doesn’t appear to be the case because the issue happens sometimes a few seconds after I start the car and before I move it.
To recap:
Jose
I’m having disconnect/programming-loss issues. For no reason the loop appears to disconnect, and I lose audio/phone/CDC. The only way to regain functionality is to go into the hidden menu, re-select those options, and restart the car.
The problem started as soon as I completed the setup (I might have mentioned it above). I first thought it was a physical issue where the optical wires were not seated correctly or secured to the white tabs, so I checked everything and taped the wires together about an inch away from the tabs making sure the wires are always straight into the connectors. Everything worked ok for a drive or two but then it came back. So, that didn’t fix the problem.
One day the car didn’t start (it clicked and went dead). I jiggled the battery connectors and the car came back to life. I hadn’t tightened the battery connectors after I disconnected the battery to do the install, so the next time the car didn’t start I went ahead and tightened the connectors. That solved the car not starting but didn’t solve the loop disconnect issue, which has continued to happen. So those two don’t appear to be connected.
I thought it was a physical problem where the wires might be jiggling while driving and disconnecting the optical loop, but it doesn’t appear to be the case because the issue happens sometimes a few seconds after I start the car and before I move it.
To recap:
- The system disconnects randomly. Sometimes as soon as I start the car, sometimes a minute or so after, sometimes 30 minutes into a long drive, sometimes it doesn’t disconnect at all.
- The symptom is the same as a bad loop connection. I lose sound from the radio. CDC doesn’t work. Pressing phone button says Phone not fitted.
- The only way to reconnect is to go into the hidden menu and re-select Phone and CDC (voice is selected).
Jose
Make sure that every D2B fibre has the spring in the connector.
If you lose one module they all go off the system.
The next step if all the above is ok is to remove one module at a time, including reconfigureimng the d2b cable to remove the unused plug and see when/if the fault goes away, but my guess would be that you will find an insecure electrical connector, probably in the phone module.
The head unit will look for what is on the system each time at start up and it will then pole each unit, if any one does not respond it will go into fault mode until it is restarted again.
This is clearly what is happening with your car.
The other thing to mention is that a poor battery can give you all sorts of strange faults on these cars. If you have any doubts about the battery at all it is best to change it for a new one.
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Dec 2, 2019 at 06:48 AM.
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If you have a D2B plug in loop in the system then you already have a connection for an additional module.
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Member
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
As well as the d2b cable this type of fault can be caused by a poor electrical connection to one of the units in the boot/trunk. Check the electrical connections to every module, make sure they are fully located and that the ones with the moving clips are fully locked into place. Make sure that every D2B fibre has the spring in the connector. If you lose one module they all go off the system. The next step if all the above is ok is to remove one module at a time, including reconfigureimng the d2b cable to remove the unused plug and see when/if the fault goes away, but my guess would be that you will find an insecure electrical connector, probably in the phone module. The head unit will look for what is on the system each time at start up and it will then pole each unit, if any one does not respond it will go into fault mode until it is restarted again. This is clearly what is happening with your car. The other thing to mention is that a poor battery can give you all sorts of strange faults on these cars. If you have any doubts about the battery at all it is best to change it for a new one.
Mellow
Mellow
I'm going to go back there after work today and try re-seating the BT electrical connector (that clip was driving me nuts on how it should be positioned BTW). Hopefully that will fix the issue.
I'll keep you guys posted!
Jose
P.S. The battery seems to be in good shape. I never get any hesitation when starting the car. How can I have it tested? At a store like PepBoys? And if so, what is the reading I should be looking for?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 233
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From: Central KY. US.
P.S. The battery seems to be in good shape. I never get any hesitation when starting the car. How can I have it tested? At a store like PepBoys? And if so, what is the reading I should be looking for?
I hope this helps.
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Member
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Hi guys, still having problems 
Here's where I am:
Jose
Here's where I am:- It's not the battery. I had it checked at PepBoys and the reading was 12.61
- I'm 99.9% sure it's not a connection issue (meaning loose connectors) as the behavior is not consistent with a bad connection
- DAY 1: I checked all the connections like Mellow suggested and found that the BT connector clip wasn't pushed all the way in until it snapped. The connector wasn't loose but at first I thought I had found the issue, so I snapped he clip into place and restarted the car. Nothing. I went back in the trunk and noticed the BT module was pretty tight in the space where I put it (to the right of the tower), so I adjusted the trunk cover to make sure the optical connectors were not being pushed. I restarted the car and the stereo came to life. So I thought, great! This was it. I drove the car all day (maybe 5 or 6 trips) and all was good.
- DAY 2: One of the patterns I had noticed in the past was that once I got the system going, it would work ok for the rest of the day. But when I would come back to the car a few days later, the issue would be back. So, I decided to drive the car the next day to see if my theory was correct. I started the car and everything worked ok! I drove the car all around town that day with no issues. So that night I thought I'd let it sit for a few days before driving it again just to make sure.
- DAY 5: The car sat for three days undisturbed. As soon as I started the car on day five, the stereo came on for 2-3 seconds and then it lost the connection. I restarted the car and nothing. So I started driving with a dead connection. About 5 minutes into the drive I restarted the car at a stop light. The stereo came back to life and worked ok for the rest of the day. I drove the car around two or three times that day and the stereo worked fine.
- DAY 8: I let the car sit for another three days as I wanted to test my theory again. Same thing. As soon as I started the car, the stereo comes on for 2-3 seconds and then it drops the connection. I drove the car for a few minutes and then restarted it. The stereo came on and stayed on for the remainder of the drive. I drove it twice more that day with no issues.
- It doesn't appear to be a connection issue. The stereo drops the connection when the car is at a standstill and has been at a standstill since the last time it worked. Also, it works ok during all kinds of drives where connectors would be bouncing around. Also, I've checked all the connections and everything is tightly connected.
- Everything points to a cold/warm engine thing. When the engine is cold after sitting for a few days the stereo drops the connection. After the engine warms up, the connection works and keeps working. I'm wondering, do these cars have a sleep mode they enter after a few days of sitting idle that could be causing this issue?
Jose
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 643
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From: Essex UK
You could try using the Jaguar SDD software, this may well tell you where the fault is.
I think the alternative is that you are going to have to remove one module at a time from the system, including changing the D2B cable.
Test it with what is left on the system until you find the module that is causing you the problem.
I know this is a pain, but I cannot think of another way.
So try using SDD first and if you get no joy then start removing modules one at a time..
Mellow
I think the alternative is that you are going to have to remove one module at a time from the system, including changing the D2B cable.
Test it with what is left on the system until you find the module that is causing you the problem.
I know this is a pain, but I cannot think of another way.
So try using SDD first and if you get no joy then start removing modules one at a time..
Mellow
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Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Mellow, I've read threads with you guys mentioning you must have a laptop running Windows 7 or maybe even XP, which I don't. I do have a couple of spare laptops running Windows 10 that I could use if that works. And, of course, where do I get a copy of Jag's SDD software?
Jose
Jose
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 643
Likes: 278
From: Essex UK
You need to use SDD130. (134 thoiught to be unstable, and later versions will not work.)
This requires the Jaguar dedicated interface, I use a mongoose.
The PC must be running windows XP (not 7, or 10.)
The PC must not be connected to the internet. (If it is connected SDD will look for an update, it will not find one so it will stop working! )
The date must re-set each time the PC is turned on. (After 1 month from the install date SDD will stop working if it has not been updated.)
This can be run as in a virtual XP machine running inside windows 7 or 10. But you have to make sure it is fully stable.
If you search around on the internet you will find a virtual machine SDD130 image, with instructions on how to use it.
You will also need a 12v power supply. This needs to be powerful enough to run all the car electrics when the engine is not running, without letting the battery voltage drop. (If the voltage drops when using SDD it can interrupt the programming and destroy the modules on the car.)
I use a 30-amp stabilised variable voltage power supply. (I think Jaguar recommend 50 amp.)
(A 5amp battery charger will not be good enough.)
If this is all a bit too much for you I recomend the second option. That is to remove one module at a time from the system until you find the one that is causing the fault.
Mellow
This requires the Jaguar dedicated interface, I use a mongoose.
The PC must be running windows XP (not 7, or 10.)
The PC must not be connected to the internet. (If it is connected SDD will look for an update, it will not find one so it will stop working! )
The date must re-set each time the PC is turned on. (After 1 month from the install date SDD will stop working if it has not been updated.)
This can be run as in a virtual XP machine running inside windows 7 or 10. But you have to make sure it is fully stable.
If you search around on the internet you will find a virtual machine SDD130 image, with instructions on how to use it.
You will also need a 12v power supply. This needs to be powerful enough to run all the car electrics when the engine is not running, without letting the battery voltage drop. (If the voltage drops when using SDD it can interrupt the programming and destroy the modules on the car.)
I use a 30-amp stabilised variable voltage power supply. (I think Jaguar recommend 50 amp.)
(A 5amp battery charger will not be good enough.)
If this is all a bit too much for you I recomend the second option. That is to remove one module at a time from the system until you find the one that is causing the fault.
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Dec 16, 2019 at 05:13 AM.
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+1 on the above however if you run "Freeze" on the laptop it will freeze the date that you set.so that you do not have to keep resetting the date.
Which btw did not work for me, resetting the date, as my JLR SDD checked to make sure the date was not reset!
Which btw did not work for me, resetting the date, as my JLR SDD checked to make sure the date was not reset!
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Member
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Guys, will this mongoose cable work? It mentions versions after 137 not working but doesn't say anything about backwards compatibility to SDD130.
Thanks!
Jose
Thanks!
Jose
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 643
Likes: 278
From: Essex UK
Yes and no!
The mongoose cable should work.
But you must use SDD130 only.
I think that if you try and update the mongoose with the latest driver/firmware update it will stop working with SDD130!
I use 'vertualbox' running in windows 7.https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads
I downloaded the vertualbox image with SDD130, the correct Mongoose toolkit installed to flash your cable with the right firmware and date change code.
You should be able to use google to find this on-line and the instructions on how to use it.
You will also need a 30 amp power supply connected to the car battery when using SDD130.
Mellow
The mongoose cable should work.
But you must use SDD130 only.
I think that if you try and update the mongoose with the latest driver/firmware update it will stop working with SDD130!
I use 'vertualbox' running in windows 7.https://www.virtualbox.org/wiki/Downloads
I downloaded the vertualbox image with SDD130, the correct Mongoose toolkit installed to flash your cable with the right firmware and date change code.
You should be able to use google to find this on-line and the instructions on how to use it.
You will also need a 30 amp power supply connected to the car battery when using SDD130.
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Dec 22, 2019 at 02:08 PM.
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Member
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Thanks Mellow! I found SDD130's image here. I downloaded the files and will download virtualbox next. I'm ordering the cable today. I'll circle back to you guys when I run the diagnostics.
Jose
P.S. It's definitely a cold/hot engine thing of sorts. The behavior duplicates every time. When I first start the car after days sitting I have no connection. Once the car warms up (maybe 5 minutes or so of driving) the connection comes back up. If I restart the car before the engine is warm the connection doesn't come back. The connection works ok for the remainder of the day after that initial drive that warmed up the engine. If I let the car sit for a couple of days, it's back to square one. -- Remember, I'm in Florida so I don't have to contend with the engine cooling down in a couple of hours. I can let the car sit for two or three hours no problem; when I restart the car the connection works.
Jose
P.S. It's definitely a cold/hot engine thing of sorts. The behavior duplicates every time. When I first start the car after days sitting I have no connection. Once the car warms up (maybe 5 minutes or so of driving) the connection comes back up. If I restart the car before the engine is warm the connection doesn't come back. The connection works ok for the remainder of the day after that initial drive that warmed up the engine. If I let the car sit for a couple of days, it's back to square one. -- Remember, I'm in Florida so I don't have to contend with the engine cooling down in a couple of hours. I can let the car sit for two or three hours no problem; when I restart the car the connection works.
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Joined: Sep 2021
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From: amstertdam
Hi,
I was trying to fix the phone not working on my secondhand x358.
so i already replaced the original BT module with another one (both AB type) but still nothing.
but reading this thread itfinally starts to make sense, it seems it will only work in combination with a voicecommand module, right?
i do have the voice button on steeringwheel and phone button on console but diag screen says i dont have it enabled.
one thing i cant find in this thread is: which model voicecommand module do i need to buy?
all i found was something called a C2C38921 module.
will this work?
thanks a bundle, been busy with this for months now.
I was trying to fix the phone not working on my secondhand x358.
so i already replaced the original BT module with another one (both AB type) but still nothing.
but reading this thread itfinally starts to make sense, it seems it will only work in combination with a voicecommand module, right?
i do have the voice button on steeringwheel and phone button on console but diag screen says i dont have it enabled.
one thing i cant find in this thread is: which model voicecommand module do i need to buy?
all i found was something called a C2C38921 module.
will this work?
thanks a bundle, been busy with this for months now.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 643
Likes: 278
From: Essex UK
You need to change the module in the boot for a later bluetooth module (2W93 part number) and then also install the BTUM module in the center consul in place of the wired phone.
The module you have in the boot is for the fixed wired phone only.
The bluetooth version was a modified motorolla wired phone module that requires the BTUM unit. It can only be paired with one phone, it has no signal reading on the touch screen and is not compatable with some newer phones.
The alternative is the 07 X-type and XJ6 bleutooth module and bluetooth antenna as mentioned in my posts above that is a newer Ford unit with a built in d2b interface.
This does not require the BTUM unit, up to five phones can be paired to it, you get a signal reading and it is compatable with all newer phones.
The downside is that it is not the same size and shape as the Motorolla module so requires a custom fixing in the boot.
As mentioned even with this later module you only get bluetooth phone access, no text messages, music or anything eles.
Mellow
The module you have in the boot is for the fixed wired phone only.
The bluetooth version was a modified motorolla wired phone module that requires the BTUM unit. It can only be paired with one phone, it has no signal reading on the touch screen and is not compatable with some newer phones.
The alternative is the 07 X-type and XJ6 bleutooth module and bluetooth antenna as mentioned in my posts above that is a newer Ford unit with a built in d2b interface.
This does not require the BTUM unit, up to five phones can be paired to it, you get a signal reading and it is compatable with all newer phones.
The downside is that it is not the same size and shape as the Motorolla module so requires a custom fixing in the boot.
As mentioned even with this later module you only get bluetooth phone access, no text messages, music or anything eles.
Mellow
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Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 50
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From: AZ
My 2000 didn't have BT and I was not going to fool with all the stuff needed. I bought a Jabra Touring unit which was a visor clip on and a charge is good for 12 hours. It self paired to my I phone and maybe the best $65 I have spent in a while
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Joined: Jan 2023
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The alternative is the 07 X-type and XJ6 bleutooth module and bluetooth antenna as mentioned in my posts above that is a newer Ford unit with a built in d2b interface.
This does not require the BTUM unit, up to five phones can be paired to it, you get a signal reading and it is compatable with all newer phones.
The downside is that it is not the same size and shape as the Motorolla module so requires a custom fixing in the boot.
As mentioned even with this later module you only get bluetooth phone access, no text messages, music or anything eles.
Mellow
Made 2 small brackets to fit it in the back below the Nav unit, but I guess sticking it on top with some proper double sided tape would work.
You do also need the voice command unit and the external microphone.
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dennis black
XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 )
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Mar 21, 2014 12:05 PM
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