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Yes, thank you. They are swallowing up all my time.
Today I'll continue throwing all the parts back onto an X-Type, after I have removed the transmission now 3 times - looks like I finally stopped the ATF leak.
Yes, thank you. They are swallowing up all my time.
Today I'll continue throwing all the parts back onto an X-Type, after I have removed the transmission now 3 times - looks like I finally stopped the ATF leak.
Amazing ! I rely om veterans like you and this forum to steer the toubleshooting and learn. Right now i am trying to solve the issue with warm starts. I have to press the accelerator to get the car crank. No issues, stutter, jerks, eratic rpm, jerks... nothing. I read that eCT could solve this due to A/F ratio and i will try the fuel pump after that.
I am not sure how to read you post above: Do you or don't you have all the issues like e.g. eratic RPM?
It's obviously hard to say from here, but it may be a good idea, if you'd consider swapping your fuel filter...
PS: I'd recommend the brand "WIX" for fuel filter.
I am not sure how to read you post above: Do you or don't you have all the issues like e.g. eratic RPM?
It's obviously hard to say from here, but it may be a good idea, if you'd consider swapping your fuel filter....
No issues once the car starts, Smooth running, idling, power delivery... all is good. I have replaced, the fuel filter, fuel rail sensor, maf recently to take care of rough idling and erratic power delivery.
Right now i am trying to solve the issue with warm starts. I have to press the accelerator to get the car crank...
From the Department of Hair Splitting:
"To get the car [to] crank"
Do you mean for the starter to get the crankshaft spinning?
Or do you mean the starter behaves normally but the engine will not run on its own?
Big difference in troubleshooting, and unfortunately the expression "to crank" omits some very important details.
Do you have a scanner that can read live data? If concerned about the ECT sensor, check the sensor value when the fault is active. If the value is reasonably close to normal, the sensor is fine.
For the MAF sensor, troubleshooting is a little trickier. One typically doesn't know what a good value should be with the engine running. I suppose one could make a rough estimation based on displacement, RPM, and barometric pressure. There is one data point we can know, however. Engine off, ignition on, the airflow should be zero. So one can check the value that way. No guarantee the value remains accurate at starter cranking speed, but it should give you a rough idea.
Another trick for a suspect MAF sensor is to disconnect it. You'll get a new fault code, but the computer will substitute a precalculated value. Use this response for troubleshooting. If no change in behavior with a suspect sensor unplugged, the problem is likely elsewhere.
I wonder if leaking fuel injectors could also be at play. Not positive about Jaguar, but with most fuel-injected engines, if a flooded condition is detected, the computer enters a special recovery mode. I forget the exact details, but I think the injectors are momentarily switched off to avoid making the problem worse. I may be out in left field on this idea, so don't read too much into it.
Based on the limited information you have provided, I can't say that the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is your problem, but Peter probably has the correct part number for you, but it is always prudent to visit parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com and compare part numbers with your VIN range:
From the Department of Hair Splitting:
"To get the car [to] crank"
Do you mean for the starter to get the crankshaft spinning?
Or do you mean the starter behaves normally but the engine will not run on its own?
.
I meant, the cranking does happen fine, then i have to give gas for the engine to start running.
From the Department of Hair Splitting:
Do you have a scanner that can read live data? If concerned about the ECT sensor, check the sensor value when the fault is active. If the value is reasonably close to normal, the sensor is fine.
For the MAF sensor, troubleshooting is a little trickier.
I can read live data. I will check the coolant temp readings. I already recently replaced MAF sensor recently, plus fuel filter & the fuel rail pressure sensor. Going through other forum discussions looks like that Crankshaft Position Sensor is a more probable of a cause. So, I may start with replacing that. Thanks
From other posts:
Heat soak is a probable cause: Heat soak occurs after an engine is turned off and its cooling system isn't running. Heat begins to redistribute through the engine, and parts of it get hotter than they would in normal operation. If you try to restart it while it is in this state, it may not run properly - for example, fuel in the fuel lines may have temporarily vaporised, as cfulton said.
Engines are designed to reduce the effects of heat soak - heat shields and insulating gaskets, for example - and control systems are usually able to compensate. But sometimes these deteriorate over time, and then it becomes a problem.
Fuel pump is a probable cause: cfulton "On the 4.2L x100 there is a check valve in the pump assembly to prevent the fuel from draining back to the tank. If it fails then when the engine is warm it causes the fuel in the rail to boil, pushing the fuel back to the tank. The next time you try to start the car the pump has to move the fuel all the way from the tank to the fuel rail causing a long start.
The pump runs for a few seconds when you turn the key one, so another thing to try is to cycle the key on a few times to "pump up" the fuel system.
To diagnose it, you can use an OBD meter to read the fuel pressure. When the key comes on, you should see the pressure come up to about 55psi and hold there. If it falls off immediately then that check valve is most likely the culprit.
"Note: If CKP Sensor fault exists, engine will start after approximately 5 seconds of cranking as the ECM will default to CMP Sensor 1 signal for synchronization."
Reading between the lines, for a no-start condition and the CKP sensor is suspected, crank the starter for at least 5 seconds and see if the engine now starts. I do not know if this switchover logic only happens if P0335 has already been set, or if it would happen anytime the CKP input is invalid, even without a code.
If the 5 second rule applies to your late model engine, I wonder if that might explain your observation about having to press the gas pedal before the engine would start. The deciding factor may not have been (coincidentally) pressing the gas pedal, but simply letting the starter crank for at least 5 seconds, at which point the computer switched to the backup CMP 1 sensor. For giggles, with the fault active, try cranking the starter but don't touch the gas pedal. See if the engine now starts (after 5 seconds of starter cranking). If so, then you'd have found your smoking gun.
About that original question: AJ88655 or LNA1600AA?
Don is right - it's always a good idea to double check on parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com
However, strangely enough, you'll find: https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...re-sensor.html
and https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...re-sensor.html
...and for both P/Ns this site will tell you: S-type 1999 - 2008 Classic
i.e. to VIN restriction.
I understand that both sensors look different.
Thus, in this case, it might be best to actually remove the part first to look at it before ordering.
Which is what I do always wherever practicable.
And about the actual issue:
Another possibility could be a deflective throttle position sensor.
Apart from being expensive, they seem to be hard to get and not straight forward when replacing: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...solved-138182/
But before you consider buying a new TPS, see, if there is anything obviously wrong with yours, like disconnected connector, dirty contacts on connector, damaged el. cable...
PS: ...or - thinking about it: Have you checked, if the area around the butterfly is clean? Or are the carbon and other deposits, which prevent the butterfly from closing properly? Also, I have just seen in an episode of Car SOS, where Fuzz does a butterfly adjustment: The closed position is not utterly closed - he checks, if he can see the light shining thru from a lightbulb inserted on the other side. Maybe the solution for you is to adjust the butterfly in your car.
Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; Nov 14, 2024 at 03:16 PM.
Reason: Added PS note
If the 5 second rule applies to your late model engine, I wonder if that might explain your observation about having to press the gas pedal before the engine would start. The deciding factor may not have been (coincidentally) pressing the gas pedal, but simply letting the starter crank for at least 5 seconds, at which point the computer switched to the backup CMP 1 sensor. For giggles, with the fault active, try cranking the starter but don't touch the gas pedal. See if the engine now starts. If so, then you'd have found your smoking gun.
About that original question: AJ88655 or LNA1600AA? But before you consider buying a new TPS, see, if there is anything obviously wrong with yours, like disconnected connector, dirty contacts on connector, damaged el. cable...
PS: ...or - thinking about it: Have you checked, if the area around the butterfly is clean? Or are the carbon and other deposits, which prevent the butterfly from closing properly? Also, I have just seen in an episode of Car SOS, where Fuzz does a butterfly adjustment: The closed position is not utterly closed - he checks, if he can see the light shining thru from a lightbulb inserted on the other side. Maybe the solution for you is to adjust the butterfly in your car.
-Correct on the part# both fit the S-type, in all jaguar sites. Once you order, then you will be notified of the correct part# to use.
-Another sensor to consider.... hmmm .
-Don't know about Butterfly. I will need to do some reading on it
Some folks say they have been driving around with this issue.... unable to resolve
Good point about fuel pressure.
Did you monitor it when starting?
Good Cycle Readings: Ignition spark > Crank > Start > Run. When ignition switch is at position II: Fuel pressure is 75 psi. Then drops to 38 during spark/crank/start. When Running + Driving it is 42-50 psi.
Good Cycle Readings: Ignition spark > Crank > Start > Run. When ignition switch is at position II: Fuel pressure is 55 psi. Then drops to 43 during spark/crank/start. When Running + Driving it is 43-53 psi.
Bad Cycle Readings: Ignition spark > Crank > Start > Dies ( after1 sec). When ignition switch is at position II: Fuel pressure is 74 psi. Then drops to 46 during spark/crank/start. When Dies it is 42-56 psi.
