Even with my limited experience with the Jag S-type, it has become painfully obvious that the coolant system bleeder valve located on the upper radiator hose is a real problem. Yes, I broke off the valve core on my Jag too! It seems that everyone does this eventually, but I have a possible solution. There are two basic steps.


Step One - Replace the broken valve core. I just paid $56 for a new upper radiator hose just so I could remove the bleeder valve core and use it to replace the one I broke. My existing upper radiator hose is fine. Only the valve core was damaged. I now have an extra upper radiator hose.


Step Two - Never open the bleeder valve again! That's a nice idea, but how do you bleed the air out of the coolant system after a repair? That's easy. You install a new bleeder valve that actually works without breaking. Here's how:


1. You will need some parts that you should be able to find at any hardware store, a big box building supply store and/or an auto parts store.


1 ea. 1/4 inch MIP Brass Plug
2 ea. 5/16 inch ID x 1/4 inch MIP Brass Hose Barb
1 ea. 1/4 inch FIP Brass T-Connector
2 ea. Small Hose Clamps - suitable for a 5/16 inch fuel line
2 ea. Zip Ties about 4 to 6 inches long
1 ea. Small felt pad like you put under legs of furniture to prevent scratches on the floor
1 ea. Roll of Teflon tape - the type used by plumbers


2. Assemble the brass parts as shown in the following photo. Don't forget to apply Teflon tape to the threads. It will help keep the threads from binding and help prevent leaks. Do not screw the plug on too tightly. It is designed to work with natural gas at pressures many time greater than the Jag cooling system, so it really does not need to be very tight in this application. Make it good and snug. Then about 1/4 to 1/2 turn more should do the trick.







2. There is a 5/16 ID hose that runs from the back side of the upper radiator hose, along the RH side of the intake manifold, and over to the coolant reservoir. This allows air and coolant to vent up into the reservoir. Cut this hose at a point just to the left of the third hole that attaches the windshield cowling to the underlying support member. (See the following photo.) I know; its an expensive hose! If you don't like the modification, you can always use a 5/16 inch barbed connector to repair it.





3. Insert the brass fittings assembled in Step 1 and secure them with the hose clamps. Insert the felt pad between the fittings and the support beam to prevent rattling and scratching. Secure the rubber hose to the support beam using the zip ties. Pull the zip ties snug but not too tight. Do not crush the hose.





4. When you need to vent the coolant system, simply remove the brass plug. DO NOT REMOVE THE PLUG WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE! Also, do not screw the plug down too tight. It will not break, but it will only make it more difficult to remove.


I have been running with this modification for a couple of days now, and it seems to work just fine.

 

Nice. Just like a 79 Dodge truck. Impressive and innovative. Heaven forbid that you replace the upper radiator hose.

 

Why would you replace the upper hose just to fix the bleeder valve core that is simply going to break again? ;-)

 

Good one Jim. Excellent fix for a stupid design.

Looked at both our S types, interest got the better of me in the 45c temps outside, and the RHD has the dumb nipple in the top hose, I did break that on "hers", and there is NO valve core or anything in that plastic thingy.

Our header tank is on the RH side at the rear, and the feed hose runs up the LH camcover, across the rear of the engine, and straight to the tank. My assumption is the air simply bubbles direct into the tank as this hose attaches to the tank quite high up, not far below the filler cap opening.

The parts book also lists a different set up for LHD, and does mention a valve in that bleeder hose??.

Its these times I LUV my RHD vehicles. Simple as they come.

The mighty V8's, different obviously.

 

Nice 1 Jim, I have a question though, are you able to run the zip tie under the plastic cowl to the support bar so that one can reinstall the cowl fasteners?


I know on the '03 MYs and up there is enough wiggle room to do so, just not sure with the preface MYs.

 

Rick,


You can run the zip tie under the cowl, but the fasteners that hold the cowl on my Jag have broken long ago. I use zip ties to hold it on anyway.


Jim

 

hmm interesting that you do not have water intrusion problems especially on the COPs. Awhile back (many years actually) there was discussion about missing cowl fasteners and water leaking into (onto) the coils causing misfires.

 

I have driven through a lot of rain with no ill effect.

 

You've done well. If these are the fasteners I think then they're fairly cheap and look better IMO than ties.

 

This place carries the cowl push pins (99-8265) and the headlight cover screw down pins (99-8266). Note the price shown is for 10 so very good prices!

http://www.car-pak.com/advanced_sear...x=0&search.y=0
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WOW! Great resource. The only reason I was using zip ties is because I could not find the push pins. I agree with JagV8. The push pins look much better than zip ties.


I knew I was going to like this forum.


Jim

 

Great website indeed - if only it worked properly so that I could actually ORDER those clips (it won't let me pay!)

 

Richard,


You may want to try again. I just ordered both of the recommended parts without any problems at all.


Jim

 

Still not working - every time I click the button to make the payment, it just sends me back to the cart. Oh well, their loss - I'll find them somewhere else.

 

When I purchased, the payment key took me to my PayPal account. It took longer than I expected, but it worked. I did not create an account. Maybe you could try that.


Jim

 

It might be your location is outside the US? E-mail them and see if they ship international?
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I've tried it all ways: my Middle East address, my US address, Paypal, credit card - it all just goes round in a loop to the cart. Their loss - I'll take my business to someone who has a properly set up online sales system.

 

These systems normally have a first level check based on ip address.

 

I also used a VPN to tell it I was in NY and it still didn't work. No problem - they're cheaper on ebay!

 

Hi, does the 1999 version have this pipe to tap into ? All I

got is this.