Project: Replace Valve Cover Gaskets, Plugs & Packs. (Due to oil in the wells, Misfires, Etc.)

Everything was going good, very good. I had all of my new parts, did plenty of homework, mentally prepared....lol. I was taking my sweet time, being careful and was finally ready to put it all back together. So, I'm tightening the valve cover and..... SNAP! There goes #7 (AJ86865 GROMMET).

I'm contemplating on not fixing it and just keeping an eye on it to see if it leaks (Would it leak with 13 other properly torqued screws?) or to deal with this now? What to do?

I would like to somehow get that broken screw out, but it's not looking so easy. I have no freaking idea how to extract the screw, it's too tight down there to get a drill or extractor bit in there. It just had to be one of the lower ones that snapped..... figures.

Has anyone had his happen before? I'm sure, but haven't seen any threads. Any feedback/advice/suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!

 

I do not know how much homework you have done but are you aware that the torque for these screws is 10 Nm? To break one takes much much more torque and the problem is that if the other screws are overtightened the seal will perish all around.

 

Yes, I'm aware of the torque. I'm thinking the screw may have had a small crack, it was brittle or something... it is a 14 year old car. All of the other screws are torqued properly.

 

I just took the valve cover back off and have no clue how to get this out! (added a picture to the first post). I cant get a hold of it with the needle nose, I've laid on my back under the car to see if I could reach it from the back side but I cant seem to get to it.

I wish I had more room so I could try to extract it. Stumped!

 

Got It! Thankfully. I was able to get my drill in there at a very odd angle, but just enough to drill a small notch in the center. Used a tiny flathead to get some movement, and then the needle nose once it was exposed enough. Now to find a replacement.

*patting myself on the back*

 

Glad to see that you got the darned thing out, WTG.

 

I did the exact same thing and was using a Torque wrench as well, luckily it came out for me quick and easier than I expected.

 

It's tough to get a torque wrench on the lower ones next to the firewall! I had to try a few different attachments until I found a fit, even then it's not as easy as some of the others. Now I have to do the driver's side. I've never worked on that side before and I'm hoping I don't have any issues.

 

That's awesome John - as i was about to respond that is the worst bolt for something to happen to. (rear lower part of the cam cover)

Just to confirm - replacement bolt is: AJ84085 (I believe)

 

Hand tight is good enough. If you over tighten these - the cam cover tends to warp over time.

Personally, what I do with the lower rear side of the cam gasket is place a small dab of Black RTV sealant before buttoning everything up.

Regarding the driver's side - it's a PITA if you have the long oil filler tube. To make the job go smoother. Release fuel pressure and disconnect spring clamp where the plastic fuel line goes across the cam cover (unless you can get the oil filler tube disconnected from cam cover) - mine was literally stuck - resulting in a hot mess in fishing out the old gasket and getting the new one on....

If I venture to do this job again - the fuel line will be disconnected....

 

People have been calling my John all my life... I guess that's what I get for having two first names... but it's Jason Johns.

The screw/grommet I found on JEPC is AJ86865 GROMMET, but I looked up your part # and it looks exactly like the replacement I picked up from Champion Bolt & Supply. It works, just doesn't stay attached in the eyelet. No biggie though, it wouldn't be the first replacement, as it looks like this has happened to the last person who owned the car, or their mechanic.

 

I know that step is not in the JTIS. Do you know if there is a write up on here for doing the driver's side? I might not even replace the valve cover gasket if there is no oil in the wells..... I want to, but don't want any issues to 'pop up' either. The only oil I see on that side is coming from VVT Sensor up front. Already have the gasket for that and don't need to pull the cover to replace.

 

I completed this today, finally.... My Jag is just about at the 250K mark so I figured 4 years later and staring at all the Jaguar gaskets, o rings, etc...

if anyone knows the part number for the fuel line O rings that connects to the fuel rail please share them. (I disconnected and didn't like the look of the inner o-ring) No leaks but would like to replace it as a precautionary measure.

Of course one of the cam cover bolts decided to disconnect itself from the holder as I was removing the cover from the Jag and wound up somewhere in the depths of the suspension.

In a pinch I replaced with a M6 X 1.0 bolt (30mm long)

Don't put a dab of RTV on the lower edge of the cam gasket. Does nothing and I think made things worse over time.

With the cover off finally I was able to clean the head mating surface and the cam cover and resolve the oil leak from the oil filler tube. (o-ring was shot)

 

I know this is old but...

Here is how i accomplished the driver's side today:

* Disconnect neg battery terminal
* Relieve fuel pressure at schrader valve.
* Disconnect fuel line connector at fuel rail. (Use 5/8" fuel disconnect size) - after inserting the tool, push in then pull apart, slowly.
* Remove air tube and air cleaner.
* Remove bolt from oil dipstick tube.
* Remove power steering reservoir and set aside towards area where air cleaner sits in car.
* Disconnect EVAP valve and lines, and dynamic stability bracket that's connected to the EVAP valve.
* Remove bolt that holds fuel line bracket to frame opposite cam cover. (This will give you working space)
* bracket holding harness on top of cam cover.

* You need 7, 8, 10mm size, short and long sockets both 1/4 and 3/8 sizes, swivels and extensions (13mm socket only used for 2 strut bolts holding EVAP unit bracket) and self ratcheting wrenches, 7, 8 and 10mm

* Remove COP Cover and COP's.

* Remove all cam cover bolts (make sure all are loose) they don't come out they will spin on the shaft when loose.

* Pull cover off (Pull bolts off cover and notate where they go) I should've done that to alleviate running to the auto store to get a replacement M6 X 1.0 bolt.

Check secondary tensioner (Mine was changed years ago so i wasn't worried) and chain. (any missing parts of tensioner or chain is loose - stop and thank me after replacing your secondary tensioner) tell tale sign is cracking and orange color.

Clean off old RTV at front 2 areas where timing cover meets the cylinder head and place RTV in those 2 spots before affixing cam cover. A dab is fine.

Clean off all mating surfaces on cam cover and install new gaskets. Push bolts through bottom of cam cover gasket and affix cam cover carefully in place.

If you have oil leaks at your oil filler tube change the o-ring or seal up with RTV.

Put everything back together in reverse, take your time and don't over tighten cam cover bolts. Start by tightening rear ones by hand before moving to the front bolts.