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A/c question that i think i know answer but want confirmation

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Old Sep 15, 2024 | 02:47 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
Quick extra. Ohms on socket 5 was 4.6. I guess the clutch coils is wonky also
4.6 ohms is exactly the reading I got across my compressor clutch coil on my brand new compressor so I’m saying it’s not wonky. It’s perfect.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2024 | 02:52 PM
  #42  
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Well, your compressor clutch might be reading the same exact resistance that my brand new compressor coil measures. You still got a major issue.

those metal flakes.

that is a definite sign of your compressor breaking down, and when that happens, it throws that metal to the system, and I think these condensers are not a single pass. You can never clean out the condenser with a flush because I think all the tubes go all the way across, it’s not just one series line of tubes

I’m kind of surprised that the flakes did not clog up your expansion valve. If you had an orifice tube would be done for the day because it would be clogged in the pressures go through the roof.

I hate to tell you but when u have metal flakes being emitted from the compressor It’s time to replace the evaporator coil expansion valve condenser and compressor and change the filter and flush all the lines to fix. If you don’t get all those flakes out eventually, your expression valve be blocked in or it’ll get back into the new compressor and destroy it.

 
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Old Sep 18, 2024 | 01:09 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Aarcuda
Well, your compressor clutch might be reading the same exact resistance that my brand new compressor coil measures. You still got a major issue.

those metal flakes.

that is a definite sign of your compressor breaking down, and when that happens, it throws that metal to the system, and I think these condensers are not a single pass. You can never clean out the condenser with a flush because I think all the tubes go all the way across, it’s not just one series line of tubes

I’m kind of surprised that the flakes did not clog up your expansion valve. If you had an orifice tube would be done for the day because it would be clogged in the pressures go through the roof.

I hate to tell you but when u have metal flakes being emitted from the compressor It’s time to replace the evaporator coil expansion valve condenser and compressor and change the filter and flush all the lines to fix. If you don’t get all those flakes out eventually, your expression valve be blocked in or it’ll get back into the new compressor and destroy it.
i replaced the condensor and filter bag. Disconnected line and backblew them. The quick eqalization tells me exp valve ok. When i charged the system everything was great until the rubber portion of the discharge line started dancing with the power steering pulley. I also checked the new dessicant bag and no more metal flakes. The original and second one caught them. I replaced the bad portion of the line with a very nice repair kit. Vacuumed and put 12 ozs in. Found a tiny leak at one compression fitting. Found the tube not quite straight. Ordered some new ferrules and cut a little more tube and re did it. Vacuum again and put a can in again. So far so good. Passed soapy water test and holding. I am waiting on a lower rad hose coming today so i can reassemble and finish charge. Results later today
 
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Old Sep 18, 2024 | 09:54 PM
  #44  
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Update

finished refill of 750 grams total. Ac worked great. Then the pressure switch crapped out. Had a code in climate control. Luckily i saved original ford switch. Replaced with 20 chinese just because and left it. Back to ford and all is wonderful. Took for a 15 minute drive and got cold enough to up temp a bit. I am extremely happy but cautious. I will know for sure in a few days when it hits 103 again. Funny how a new bottom rad hose and fresh coolant dropped operating temp 5F
 

Last edited by scottjh9; Sep 18, 2024 at 10:02 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 06:17 AM
  #45  
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When you got it all back together let me know what you get for pressures hi and lo, and the outside temp with the ac on LO, fan on max, with all windows and sunroof open at idle. And lowest vent temp you see.

I got 50 lo, a little over 250 hi, vent temps at around 57f on a mid 90s day. It didnt seem right to me. I expected lower vent temps. I didnt do the compressor mod on this new compressor but I believe I was seeing liwer vent temps on the one I removed which did have the mod done.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 09:42 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Aarcuda
When you got it all back together let me know what you get for pressures hi and lo, and the outside temp with the ac on LO, fan on max, with all windows and sunroof open at idle. And lowest vent temp you see.

I got 50 lo, a little over 250 hi, vent temps at around 57f on a mid 90s day. It didnt seem right to me. I expected lower vent temps. I didnt do the compressor mod on this new compressor but I believe I was seeing liwer vent temps on the one I removed which did have the mod done.
will do that later today for you. I have the mod done on this new compressor. Really like results so far
 
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Old Sep 19, 2024 | 03:55 PM
  #47  
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Here are some numbers for you. Only 80f here today. Quite nice. All windows down sunroof open. Engine at 195f.
high side 225. Low side 38. Vent temp all across 43 to 45f. Engine at idle for 15 mins. The 3 sensors the scanner reads are. Evap 2 to 4c. Passenger and driver side duct temp about 1 to 2c above evap. Yesterday it was 90f and on my test drive it actually got cold in car. Compressor case temp 135f. Condensor discharge line at high side connection 105f. I shut the hood to almost closed to trap more engine heat
i would ignore that line temp. Forgot about heat soak from engine bay
 

Last edited by scottjh9; Sep 19, 2024 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2024 | 11:10 AM
  #48  
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I’ll have to check mine at somewhat similar temperature to See what I get.

I know I had the mod done in the other compressor I just took out and it was a low vent temp like in the low 40s as well. I just wonder what those numbers are gonna be when it’s up in the 90s like it is around here all the time I can’t help but think that helped kill my compressor clutch. But then again could’ve been a bad relay who knows.

My compressor only squeaked when it was in the mid 90s.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2024 | 11:33 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Aarcuda
I’ll have to check mine at somewhat similar temperature to See what I get.

I know I had the mod done in the other compressor I just took out and it was a low vent temp like in the low 40s as well. I just wonder what those numbers are gonna be when it’s up in the 90s like it is around here all the time I can’t help but think that helped kill my compressor clutch. But then again could’ve been a bad relay who knows.

My compressor only squeaked when it was in the mid 90s.
it will be mid to hi 90s here in a day or two. I will recheck and post those numbers
 
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Old Sep 20, 2024 | 01:20 PM
  #50  
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The clutch and compressor you just replaced was off of your parts car. Yes. I think the mod only really affects idle or putt putt performance to have full capability. After that the discharge pressure would be enough to push the piston back in a non modded compressor. I dont know what pressure it takes to overcome the spring but i dont think much over 125psi. I will listen for the clutch engagement underneath the car next time i get some numbers at higher ambient temps
 
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Old Sep 23, 2024 | 03:58 PM
  #51  
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97f today. Same test except no pressures. Lazy. 46f across when compressor engaged. No real change when going to fresh air intake. I do know recirc is working because i have watched the door before. Very happy with all of it. One thing that is strange is before ac went out i never noticed the idle kick up when comp engaged. Now it is noticeable like it should be. Not griping at all. Just strange. But a lot of things are strange on this car over the years
 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 09:08 AM
  #52  
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That was a well earned repair! You really worked for it too.
Glad to hear it's cool and working.
.
.
.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2024 | 05:19 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by clubairth1
That was a well earned repair! You really worked for it too.
Glad to hear it's cool and working.
.
.
.
thanks. It was a huge challenge and undertaking. Especially the ac line fix. I never did see a way to get the line out in one piece other than drop the front subframe and hope. By the way you mention the evaporator being dual chamber. Does that mean driver and passenger side have a seperate chamber that climate control can vary temps using small heaters. The sensors in the ducts are called ac heater sensors as a data point. Just curious
 
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Old Sep 26, 2024 | 11:39 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by scottjh9
The clutch and compressor you just replaced was off of your parts car. Yes. I think the mod only really affects idle or putt putt performance to have full capability. After that the discharge pressure would be enough to push the piston back in a non modded compressor. I dont know what pressure it takes to overcome the spring but i dont think much over 125psi. I will listen for the clutch engagement underneath the car next time i get some numbers at higher ambient temps
actually no. I was going to steal the clutch off the parts car, but after reading that tech bulletin that said once your clutch bearing smokes, your housing is most likely compromised so instead of using the used clutch I replaced the compressor and clutch with another brand new unit made by Murray
 

Last edited by Aarcuda; Sep 26, 2024 at 11:41 AM.
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Old Oct 11, 2024 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kr98664

”Karl, you’re a genius and a credit to humanity. The world is a better place because of you. I’ve heard you’re good-looking and I bet you smell nice, too.”
From my previous experience when I completely rebuilt my HVAC system……….Karl, you’re a genius and a credit to humanity. The world is a better place because of you. I’ve heard you’re good-looking and I bet you smell nice, too.
 
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