Is there anyway to disconnect the door Chime?
I have a drivers door open error.
Tried wd40 and silicone spray on the latch. Will fix temporarily and the the problem returns.
I tried grounding the black and white wire at the plugin to the latch and that didn't work.
2 weeks to get a new latch. Chime driving me crazy.
The chimer is soldered on the circuit board inside the speedo cluster.
not a simple find .
it is not removable without further issues implemented.
i filled mine with hot glue . It’s permanent bliss .
it is still working but very quiet,
to the point you need to turn your head and lean forward to hear it now .
I Highly recommend it to all S-type owners.
Though I still think the underlying issue of yours needs addressing.
Thanks for the reply .Datsoprts
After fiddling with it some more this afternoon I think I have a wiring problem.
Keep reading switch open is off/door closed. Grounded is on/ door open.
I unplugged at the latch and the door open stayed on and chiming away.
Think something going on where it comes into the door.
Going to try and unplug it at the general control module tomorrow and see if it goes off.
If it dose I will just run a new wire.
That chime is certainly Irritating.
The trigger your contemplating disconnecting ,
will most probably be on the SCP network .
And will flag a code if not a MIL also .
If it hasn’t already logged a code for the malfunctioning component.
you could scan the individual modules and narrow your search.
broken wires scan be a pain to find !
You mentioned in your first post how you could spray some cleaner in the latch and all would be good for a short time. That would make me suspect the latch assembly is what is creating the unwanted path to ground, not the wiring harness.
You also mentioned that disconnecting the plug from the latch was no help and set off the chime. My hunch here is the Driver's Door Control Module (DDCM) suddenly has no communication from the rest of the latch but doesn't know why. As a good bureaucrat, it responds exactly as programmed, setting off the chime and door warning.
One curious note, per the wiring diagram, the door ajar warning goes directly to the GECM. All other functions of the door latch go directly to the DDCM.
See figure 12.1 or 12.2. I think the first (double door locking) is applicable, but am not positive. Figure 12.1 has 8 wires at the latch, and figure 12.2 shows 6 wires, so you should be able to confirm which version you have. What would happen if you temporarily removed the BW wire (DT5-8) from the latch connector? This would leave all of the other wires still talking to the DDCM, but hopefully break the erroneous ground signal for the door latch. The connector should have some little release tabs so you can individually remove a pin. Wrap some tape around the bare pin to insulate it. If the door ajar switch inside the latch was the problem, that should silence the chime and message.
Thanks, Karl
This started about 3 days before the transmission broke.
Got to say he did a wonderful job. It shifts like a dream now.
I disconnected the BW wire at the latch and pluged back in. Still have door open message and chime.
I was think it was just luck that I lubed it and it worked until I opened the door again. One time or 2 and got the message again..
Do you know where the GECM is located?
I found a unit marked front general module in the divers Kick panel.
Not sure if that's the same thing. Thinking if I can disconnect it there it would rule out a grounding issue.in the door.
You are correct I have the double door locking.
Sounds like you were in the right place. It's outboard of the US driver's feet, just forward of the inertia switch.
If you determine the module is at fault, this thread may interest you. The GECM was acting up and causing problems with the lighting system, so not your symptoms. But the root cause was a defective GECM. If that's what you have, the module was easily replaced with no programming required, as long as the numbers on the (used) replacement were a perfect match:
In that thread, please ignore the comments by some chucklehead, making the original poster do all sorts of wiring checks. Hoo boy, what a waste of time that mouth-breather was...
So I disconnected the second pug the smallest one on the GECM.
Chime has stopped and no door open error now.
Schematics are not the same color code as my wire set.
Some are some are not.. Guess I will need to chase with a meter.
Looks like I'm getting closer.
Update,
Bit the bullet and purchased a latch.
Did not fix the problem.
Disconnected CA31-8 at the GECM.
Still gives me door open message and chiming away.
If I disconnect FH59 pug at the GECM the error goes away and the chime stops.
I'm leaning towards a bad GECM at this point.
I have found one on fleabay but not sure if it will work.
The bold numbers match at the top 2WF 13B252 BE but there are at the bottom that do not.
Anyone know if it will work?
