Finally got codes read
p0171
P0174
P0300
P0302
P0304
P0306
P1314
P1316
P111
Help!

 

Um, a little background would help. Year and engine type would go a long way. Any symptoms, besides the check engine light? Any recent work done, by chance? How long has the car been misbehaving? You get the idea...

Is the check engine light on steady or flashing? Steady is a medium level warning, meaning no crisis yet but investigate soon. Flashing is a high priority warning, meaning you've got a misfire bad enough to damage the catalytic converters and you should pull over and stop as soon as you safely can.

 

2003 s-type 3.0 6cyl
motor replaced last July

 

See JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource for codes and by all means workshop manual on here.

You'll see some indicate catalyst damage so drive it at some risk of replacement being needed.

Fuel trims may help figure whether it's an air leak or what.

IMT valves may need new O-rings.

 

Okay, this helps, but I've got more specific questions:

1) "Won't start" - What exactly does this mean? Did the starter engage normally and spin the crankshaft at regular speed, but the engine wouldn't run on its own? Or was the starter slow? Or did the starter not respond at all to the key?

2) Did the bad miss and rough idle only happen after you ran down the battery? It's not really clear. These cars, especially 2003+, are VERY sensitive to pre-start battery voltage. Even if the battery has been recharged, running it down like that may have been just enough to put it over the edge.

3) How have you determined you have a vacuum leak? Smoke test? Spray cleaner test at idle? Lots of variables here, just trying to get a feel for this diagnosis.

4) O2 sensor connection broken - Are the individual pins making contact and still completing the circuit, and just the plastic housing is damaged? Or is the whole thing damaged enough so the circuit is broken?

I'm not trying to give you a hard time, but these little details really matter. Remember, we can't see what you are witnessing first hand, so take you time and carefully describe the situation in your reply.

At the very minimum, the O2 sensor has to be connected properly and that vacuum leak has to be corrected. Clean up those two faults and then see what happens.

 

Car turned over great just like normal. Just wouldn't start. Yes did smoke test on vacum leak coming from inbetwin b motor and frewallf. Still tracking that down. O2 sensor driver side. Connector was hanging free and looks like the plastic is broken. Trying to find where it was plugged in.

 

 

Please don't worry about hurting my feelings. I need to listen and learn these things. But you can't help me if I don't give the proper info. For intense, it's not an O2 sensor.the connection cones out of the big blk wire look. It has 347582 on it.the other half that it plugs into is broken off and still inside this piece. Any ideas?

 

Any updates? That connector doesn't look familiar to me. I don't think it's for an O2 sensor.

 

Ok I found the vacuum leak. It was intaje to fuel pressure regulator I believe. Had all codes read and removed. Check endine lufht still on. Scanner reads no codes found, erase error. Does you have any idea why the check engine light remains on with no codes.

 

If it's on you have codes. Sounds like your tool is failing to tell you them.