hey guys ,
so I m chasing misfires on cylinder 1,3,5 ,, car had cylinder gasket replaced a bout a year ago - so I did the compression test these are the results ;

cylinder 1 180 , cylinder 3 180 cylinder 5 175
cylinder 2 210 , cylinder 4 210. cylinder 6 210

I m in the process of putting everything back together so let you guys know it runs , any WHITE smoke or milky oil ….

 

You definitely still have a problem on Cyl 1 bank.

Losing pressure somewhere.

Was the job done right?

 

I DID not want to hear that !! damm....
I had the heads service by a shop . they planed the surface .. and service the valves .. I did the installation followed all instructions pretty closely my self ..
i have checked the oil no Milky oil or white smoke !!

 

I would make sure timing is right for that bank.

As a rule of thumb you don't want to see more than 10% loss in any one cylinder.

According to my calculations your entire bank is off by almost 15%!

It's a problem for sure...

Good Luck.

 

oh boy ! I didn't think I needed to adjust the timing when I reassembled the heads !!!! I 'll have to take it apart again ???? is there a write up on how to DO it

 

JTIS or take the car to a reputable shop. Damage may be done already.

 

If the shop actually removed head material to get them square, compression will increase some unless a thicker head gasket is used....you might check with the machine shop.....if the same amount is not removed from each head, there will be a difference....just a side thought that could be a remote possibility because the engine is interference fit valves to pistons

 

thanks Scottjh9 , that is a great possibility ! they didn't take the same amount on both heads ?? I may call the shop just to find out ..
it has been almost three years since they did it .. it was sitting in the garage till a year ago I started working on it again.

I have only driven it a few times so what kind of damage will I do if I keep driving it like that ?

 

The first time you cranked the engine over the damage would have happened if it was out of time. Se if you can scope the spark plug holes. You may see impact marks on the pistons.

 

So regardless of how compression results look !! decided to keep working on the car .. actually I did the following : swapping spark plugs from one side to another , reinstalling and securing plenum bolts , tighten down injectors rail , cleaning throt;e body and air cleaner hose , replacing MAF sensor , replacing broken plug on lower throtle body sensor and repplacing Bank 1 both O2 sensors
car seems to running better I feel !!
now I seem to only be getting these two codes on the car erase them they keep coming back ????

P0172 system too rich bank 1
P0175 system too rich bank 2

 

Check the STFTs and LTFTs. Rich running is usually the result of a vacuum leak.

Remove the cam cover on Bank1 and inspect the cam timing by rotating the engine in a clock direction when viewed from the front of the vehicle to see if the flat areas on the cams are in alignment..

 

I m debating if I should get a diagnostics cable "mangoose" is what I have heard need to get !!!.. after doing lots of work looking at the car ECM maybe , i need to reflash it..

i just checked the air filter good , replaced 02 sensors bank 1, new MAF senosr , all connections to throtlebody sensors good , IMT o rings replaced , smoke test done, compression test done - even thought bank1 a bit lower than bank 2 " dont feel like tearing the engine down again "
rather try other tricks before that...... ANY SUGGESTIONS ON THE MANGOOSE CABLE AND VERSION TO GET ?? currently i have Icarsoft I930

last thing i try to get the fuel pressure - found no shrader valve to tap into - guess I have to use right diagnostics cable to be able to read that ??

 

You could get one but you've had what looks like good unheeded advice and a reflash is almost certainly pointless.

 

Your icarsoft should read fuel rail pressure using the generic obd2 mode or jaguar specific mode.....I have the same i930 and it is fantastic....I also have a 2nd generation snap on modis that can do bidirectional controls of actuators, and such....it is quite helpful in diagnosing many issues...for 600 or less you can go that route....for Any programming you will need mongoose, laptop and sdd software....sdd version 130 or 131 works very well on our cars....aarcuda got setup with a system most recently.....maybe he will chime in with his sourcing...i got my cable from a place called obdii365...google them and see what comes up

 

thanks scotth9,
I have been looking at some places on Ebay , they want no less than 180.00 total so I m still trying to get a better price on them...

on another note: I tried to get the car started yesterday . Car cranks NO turn over . I don't hear the pump priming at All ! I m thinking its my fuel pump

i opened the rear seat got to the pump - I tried to loose the " 05 factory retaining ring " on it , didn't realize how brittle this thing is i ended up braking off a piece on it ,
was hitting it with a piece of hard plastic and a mallet . sucks Now that will have to be replace!!

has anybody ever removed those type of retaining rings ? and where to get a replacement ?

oh yea ! where excactly is the inertia switch on the 05 s type 3.0 ? was looking for it last night couldn't find it..

to troubleshoot the pump : I m thinking about cranking the engine and see if I m getting voltage on the pump's plug ??

 

Access the PCM via the OBD port using a Bluetooth interface and smart phone with the Torque app to read fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should normally be around 3 bar (330 kPa) when the ignition is in the ON position prior to engaging the starter.

The retaining ring for the fuel pump part number is XR850737.

 

There are so many different reasons why these cars won’t start. All the way from body fuel pump to the ignition passive alarm sensor not noticing your key FOB. It’s impossible to try to guess why these cars won’t crank unless you have some software that will go in and look at all the various modules and the signals/inputs that they’re receiving.

Yeah I just bought a mongoose cable along with the 131 version of the software online and all I did was Google mongoose cable with version 131 And the link will come up. Without someway to look inside the system you’re never gonna solve this problem by guessing

 

Got my stuff from

https://www.jlridssddmongoose.com/ho...able-usb-16gb/

 

There's a No Start file (PDF/TSB I think) - check the TSB area.

 

i have not had any issues with immobilizer / transponder /security system with car till Now, I m thinking it might be the fuel pump however - I totally agree Aarcuda unless I have the software to look inside .. ?? Darm Didn't want to spend almost 200 for it its what https://www.jlridssddmongoose.com/ho...able-usb-16gb/ cost ??