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Coolant Tank Replacement and Suggestion/Question

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Old Oct 27, 2014 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
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Default Coolant Tank Replacement and Suggestion/Question

Love these parts that go out for no reason, other than Jag can't learn from their mistakes.

Second time since I had car that the plastic tube broke. However this was more in the middle and was able t to a temp fix with a hose gasket and what was remaining of the tube. Running for several hours and road test and it seems to hold.

There is a small amount of movement in these with the little nodule on the side toward the passenger and that movement plus normal car vibrations and heat probably cause the breakage. I put a small piece of hard flat plastic wedged between nodule and opening and that stopped almost all the little movement there is. Just a suggestion.
I was looking to get a new one and saw this one - made by Hamburg-Technic and it looks to be a bargain ad the same- Does anyone see a problem with this. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the next link.

Amazon.com: Hamburg-Technic C2Z13764 Coolant Reservoir Expansion Tank: Automotive Amazon.com: Hamburg-Technic C2Z13764 Coolant Reservoir Expansion Tank: Automotive



Amazon.com: C2C C2Z13764 02-10 Jaguar Vanden Plas S-Type XF XJ Expansion Bottle / Coolant Reservoir Tank 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10: Automotive Amazon.com: C2C C2Z13764 02-10 Jaguar Vanden Plas S-Type XF XJ Expansion Bottle / Coolant Reservoir Tank 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10: Automotive


Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S-Type 3.0 78k
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jazzwineman
I was looking to get a new one and saw this one - made by Hamburg-Technic and it looks to be a bargain ad the same- Does anyone see a problem with this. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the next link.

Amazon.com: Hamburg-Technic C2Z13764 Coolant Reservoir Expansion Tank: Automotive

Amazon.com: C2C C2Z13764 02-10 Jaguar Vanden Plas S-Type XF XJ Expansion Bottle / Coolant Reservoir Tank 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10: Automotive
Factoring shipping costs into both items, there's only about $6 difference between them, and the more expensive one has 4.5 star rating while the Hamburg-Technic has a 0 rating. How important is saving $6 to you?

I guess the bigger question is - Why you are breaking them regularly?
 

Last edited by Jumpin' Jag Flash; Oct 28, 2014 at 09:23 AM. Reason: style
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Jumpin' Jag Flash
Factoring shipping costs into both items, there's only about $6 difference between them, and the more expensive one has 4.5 star rating while the Hamburg-Technic has a 0 rating. How important is saving $6 to you?

I guess the bigger question is - Why you are breaking them regularly?
I have broken 2 in a 4 year period- so I am not sure that it is regularly. It is a common problem. As I indicated and suggested, where the little nodule that fits in the hole of the left side of it (looking from the front of the engine), there is a slight movement you can make with your hand. I fitted the old (until I get a new one) with a piece of plastic that stops the movement. I suspect since these are a common problem, that the slight movement, with general vibrating from the engine and heat, that in a given time it weakens. The vent hose fits more tightly around the tank than I think is necessary and that may pull on it just enough with the movement to weaken it over time. Bad design flaw and admitted to by jag.

Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 11:17 AM
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Hmmpf Tom. I have only recently replaced one reservoir on Joyces Jag in all the years we have owned it.


When washing the vehicle I am even known for popping the hood and wiping the entire motor compartment down, even bumping the "known nipple". Maybe you are missing a fastener or 2 if yours wiggles around so much?
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
Hmmpf Tom. I have only recently replaced one reservoir on Joyces Jag in all the years we have owned it.


When washing the vehicle I am even known for popping the hood and wiping the entire motor compartment down, even bumping the "known nipple". Maybe you are missing a fastener or 2 if yours wiggles around so much?
Rick:

no not wiggling that much- maybe like 1/16th of an inch- if that much- could even be more like 1/32 of an inch, but in just watching the movement, I could see over a period of time what might happen. So while I have a temp fix (that may well last) I just decided to eliminate any movement beyond normal engine vibration. If you went out and put your fingers/hand on the top and moved in back and forth (from front to rear) you would see a very minor movement and with the vent hose so tightly fitted around the tank- I just think over time- it could be a problem. If nothing else I feel better about it, even if I did not accomplish much.


Rick: another quick question. I am replacing my front outer tie rod ends (I can grab the tie rod and move it back and forth and the bushing has a nice split in it) do I need a bush removal tool on these or will it come off easily or will a rubber mallet hitting on top do the trick?

Thanks

Tom in Dallas/Plano
 

Last edited by jazzwineman; Oct 28, 2014 at 12:26 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 01:50 PM
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I haven't replaced the front tie rods.


I would just "rent" the tools from one of the big box stores to have on hand just in case. When I replaced the rears on our southern S Type. as I recall a slight tap and they popped out. Of course if you have rust a tool may be needed.


Be careful not to rotate the old tie rod end as it may cause the rubber boot to tear. I do not know if the new tie rods come with new boots.
 

Last edited by joycesjag; Oct 28, 2014 at 03:26 PM. Reason: See post #8 below
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
I haven't replaced the front tie rods.


I would just "rent" the tools from one of the big box stores to have on hand just in case. When I replaced the rears on our southern S Type. as I recall a slight tap and they popped out. Of course if you have rust a tool may be needed.


Be careful not to rotate the old tie rod end as it may cause the rubber boot to tear. I do not know if the new tie rods come with new boots. The retaining nut gets tightened to 55Nm.

Thanks:

No rust and enough movement with my hand, probably easy. I think that All-dATA refers to the retaining nut as the one on the ball joint or do you think they have it reversed???

Tie-rod end retaining nut 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.)
Tie-rod end lock nut 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.)


However in checking their specs for the rear they say the following:
Tie rod outer bolt 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.)

I just love consistency in words and numbers.

Tom in Plano/Dallas
 
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Old Oct 28, 2014 | 03:26 PM
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Yep ole chap, you are correct.

Confirmed:
tie-rod end retaining nut 100Nm
tie-rod end lock nut 55Nm
 
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