Coolant Tank Replacement and Suggestion/Question
Love these parts that go out for no reason, other than Jag can't learn from their mistakes.
Second time since I had car that the plastic tube broke. However this was more in the middle and was able t to a temp fix with a hose gasket and what was remaining of the tube. Running for several hours and road test and it seems to hold.
There is a small amount of movement in these with the little nodule on the side toward the passenger and that movement plus normal car vibrations and heat probably cause the breakage. I put a small piece of hard flat plastic wedged between nodule and opening and that stopped almost all the little movement there is. Just a suggestion.
I was looking to get a new one and saw this one - made by Hamburg-Technic and it looks to be a bargain ad the same- Does anyone see a problem with this. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the next link.
Amazon.com: C2C C2Z13764 02-10 Jaguar Vanden Plas S-Type XF XJ Expansion Bottle / Coolant Reservoir Tank 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10: Automotive
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S-Type 3.0 78k
Second time since I had car that the plastic tube broke. However this was more in the middle and was able t to a temp fix with a hose gasket and what was remaining of the tube. Running for several hours and road test and it seems to hold.
There is a small amount of movement in these with the little nodule on the side toward the passenger and that movement plus normal car vibrations and heat probably cause the breakage. I put a small piece of hard flat plastic wedged between nodule and opening and that stopped almost all the little movement there is. Just a suggestion.
I was looking to get a new one and saw this one - made by Hamburg-Technic and it looks to be a bargain ad the same- Does anyone see a problem with this. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the next link.
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
2005 S-Type 3.0 78k
I was looking to get a new one and saw this one - made by Hamburg-Technic and it looks to be a bargain ad the same- Does anyone see a problem with this. It appears to be an exact duplicate of the next link.
Amazon.com: Hamburg-Technic C2Z13764 Coolant Reservoir Expansion Tank: Automotive
Amazon.com: C2C C2Z13764 02-10 Jaguar Vanden Plas S-Type XF XJ Expansion Bottle / Coolant Reservoir Tank 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10: Automotive
Amazon.com: Hamburg-Technic C2Z13764 Coolant Reservoir Expansion Tank: Automotive
Amazon.com: C2C C2Z13764 02-10 Jaguar Vanden Plas S-Type XF XJ Expansion Bottle / Coolant Reservoir Tank 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10: Automotive
I guess the bigger question is - Why you are breaking them regularly?
Last edited by Jumpin' Jag Flash; Oct 28, 2014 at 09:23 AM. Reason: style
Factoring shipping costs into both items, there's only about $6 difference between them, and the more expensive one has 4.5 star rating while the Hamburg-Technic has a 0 rating. How important is saving $6 to you?
I guess the bigger question is - Why you are breaking them regularly?
I guess the bigger question is - Why you are breaking them regularly?
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
Hmmpf Tom. I have only recently replaced one reservoir on Joyces Jag in all the years we have owned it.
When washing the vehicle I am even known for popping the hood and wiping the entire motor compartment down, even bumping the "known nipple". Maybe you are missing a fastener or 2 if yours wiggles around so much?
When washing the vehicle I am even known for popping the hood and wiping the entire motor compartment down, even bumping the "known nipple". Maybe you are missing a fastener or 2 if yours wiggles around so much?
Hmmpf Tom. I have only recently replaced one reservoir on Joyces Jag in all the years we have owned it.
When washing the vehicle I am even known for popping the hood and wiping the entire motor compartment down, even bumping the "known nipple". Maybe you are missing a fastener or 2 if yours wiggles around so much?
When washing the vehicle I am even known for popping the hood and wiping the entire motor compartment down, even bumping the "known nipple". Maybe you are missing a fastener or 2 if yours wiggles around so much?
no not wiggling that much- maybe like 1/16th of an inch- if that much- could even be more like 1/32 of an inch, but in just watching the movement, I could see over a period of time what might happen. So while I have a temp fix (that may well last) I just decided to eliminate any movement beyond normal engine vibration. If you went out and put your fingers/hand on the top and moved in back and forth (from front to rear) you would see a very minor movement and with the vent hose so tightly fitted around the tank- I just think over time- it could be a problem. If nothing else I feel better about it, even if I did not accomplish much.
Rick: another quick question. I am replacing my front outer tie rod ends (I can grab the tie rod and move it back and forth and the bushing has a nice split in it) do I need a bush removal tool on these or will it come off easily or will a rubber mallet hitting on top do the trick?
Thanks
Tom in Dallas/Plano
Last edited by jazzwineman; Oct 28, 2014 at 12:26 PM.
I haven't replaced the front tie rods.
I would just "rent" the tools from one of the big box stores to have on hand just in case. When I replaced the rears on our southern S Type. as I recall a slight tap and they popped out. Of course if you have rust a tool may be needed.
Be careful not to rotate the old tie rod end as it may cause the rubber boot to tear. I do not know if the new tie rods come with new boots.
I would just "rent" the tools from one of the big box stores to have on hand just in case. When I replaced the rears on our southern S Type. as I recall a slight tap and they popped out. Of course if you have rust a tool may be needed.
Be careful not to rotate the old tie rod end as it may cause the rubber boot to tear. I do not know if the new tie rods come with new boots.
Last edited by joycesjag; Oct 28, 2014 at 03:26 PM. Reason: See post #8 below
I haven't replaced the front tie rods.
I would just "rent" the tools from one of the big box stores to have on hand just in case. When I replaced the rears on our southern S Type. as I recall a slight tap and they popped out. Of course if you have rust a tool may be needed.
Be careful not to rotate the old tie rod end as it may cause the rubber boot to tear. I do not know if the new tie rods come with new boots. The retaining nut gets tightened to 55Nm.
I would just "rent" the tools from one of the big box stores to have on hand just in case. When I replaced the rears on our southern S Type. as I recall a slight tap and they popped out. Of course if you have rust a tool may be needed.
Be careful not to rotate the old tie rod end as it may cause the rubber boot to tear. I do not know if the new tie rods come with new boots. The retaining nut gets tightened to 55Nm.
Thanks:
No rust and enough movement with my hand, probably easy. I think that All-dATA refers to the retaining nut as the one on the ball joint or do you think they have it reversed???
Tie-rod end retaining nut 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.)
Tie-rod end lock nut 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.)
However in checking their specs for the rear they say the following:
Tie rod outer bolt 55 Nm (41 ft. lbs.)
I just love consistency in words and numbers.
Tom in Plano/Dallas
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