Alright well Let me start by introducing myself. My names Jon Siebert, live in Toledo, OH and am a proud new owner of a 2000 jag S-type 4.0L. Clean runs well(well it did) couldn't be happier with it.

Anyways I got in my car after work and noticed that I have developed a heavy whine. It almost sounds like its super charged, upon stethescoping around it seemed to be towards the left side of the engine compartment. I was picking the whine up pretty well thru the throttle body and that kind of scared me as to my knowledge there is nothing in the throttle body that would make this sound and would lead me to believe its deeper in the engine.

Although today at around 2k RPMs I was getting a grinding noise like a bad pulley and I am pretty sure I've traced that noise to the alternator. After further investigation on these forums I think the alternator may be causing the whine as well?? Or could it be a coincidence and the noises are unrelated?

Anyways here is a video of me reving it from inside the car. sounds like its supercharged lol

 

Here is a picture of her.

 

I would remove the FEAD belt (Front Engine Accessory Drive) and start the engine to verify that it is one of the driven components. (silence??)
Then spin each one to feel or hear the fault.

bob

 

Jon, any codes? Also, turn climate control off. A dying AC compressor could make such a sound. Throttle Body problems may set codes.

Read all of the threads about the first generation S-Types with the 4.0; especially ones with the timing chain guides. I've never heard a set that was about to give up the ghost, but you don't want to experience that first hand. If you have access to the previous maintenance records, see if that has been addressed.

 

I don't think it's throwing any codes, i have no engine lights on... could it still be throwing a code? And I've already tried turning off the climate control with no effect. Thanks for the advice I'll start reading. It is also running very well still, probably too well to be a timing problem, am I wrong in assuming such?

 

Codes can indeed be thrown without the MIL (check engine light) being illuminated. Get the codes read, then report them in full here for more specific assistance....

 

OK, i will get the codes read, and i will pull off the fead belt and run it for a few seconds without it tonight. I did some research on the timing chain and transfer case failing and they sound nothing like what I'm hearing thankfully...

Might take a day or two, because class is pretty intense right now, but I'll report back asap.

 

What transfer case?

 

Check the power steering pump and see if the fluid level is correct.

 

Oops...I meant torque converter lol sorry I smoke a lot.

 

Oh!

There can't be many things that would cause a whine. I suspect most of them would not throw codes.

Often you can home in on a noise using a bit of tubing or a big screwdriver pressed against your head near an ear. Beware moving items!

 

The power steering pump fluid is perfect, I just got out of auto zone and we pulled no codes. The guy mentioned upon hearing it Rev that he thinks it sounds like a timing chain. Would it run this well still and not throw codes? Does it even sound like it could be a timing chain from my clip? I'm leaning towards alternator honestly,but I won't know until I run it without the belt.

 

I was using a broom stick and it sounded like I was picking it up mostly thru the throttle body... I did not bother to probe around the alternator at the time and it could be coming from there still.

 

All of you guys have already been a tremendous help. I appreciate every response and am glad to be part of this community now. We'll figure it out eventually...lol

 

I don't know whether it could be the timing but yes it can jump ONE tooth and I think survive - but I may be wrong and whatever you do don't rely on this. I've a feeling it wouldn't cause a whine (well, it would when you hear the cost of a fix).

 

I'm pretty sure that is not my problem... I'm sure we all know to take any suggestions we get from autozone with a cup of salt lol. Not saying they don't have some very, very skilled guys/gals working there sometimes, but most are just pretenders who think they know everything.

Anyways when my buddy gets off of work we are going to do some trouble shooting. Four hands are better then two. I'm hoping I can move the tensioner and one of us can just get the belt off the crank while keeping enough tension to not have it fall off everywhere else, then I can hop in the car and give her a little gas to see if my whine is gone. It really didn't look that bad, and I have a diagram, but why reroute it if I don't have to lol.

 

Belt off no whine sooooooo... looks like i'm in the market for a new alternator the tensioner pulley didn't feel to good either how is it taking that out? probably a breeze compared to the alternator.

are there any good write ups on replacing the alternator? any words of wisdom? seems kind of like a bitch of a job, but at least its only the alternator.

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

idlers come off easy as ,new bearing is about $15 . you press the old one out and press the new one in ! check your water pump for any play wile your in there !
the bearings are also replaceable in the alty take it to your auto sparky once you get it out , they might want to do the brushes wile its apart too!

 

I think it needs more then bearings tonight... I gunned it in sport leaving work and the head lights and back lights started to flash on and off lol. I should probably baby or until my alt gets here or drive my heep Cherokee for a bit lol.

 

I should have mentioned the water pump - only because I had that symptom on another vehicle. On a Ford, water pump came with a new belt tensioner as a kit. The Jag didn't whine. It just hard failed, with leaks and an overheat. Impeller was shot.

BTW, when it comes to codes, some are logged as "pending" and don't throw a check engine light for another 20 ignition cycles.